Jane Austen Foreign Travel

SWEDISH TRAVELLING By Dr. THOMSON, 1813
(from the Lady’s Magazine...February, 1816)

As there are no stage-coaches, it is necessary for every traveller to be provided with a carriage of his own. It ought to be light, and in summer an open carriage is much more useful and agreeable than any other. The horses in Sweden are small but very active, and remarkably sure footed. Notwithstanding the great number of horses which I employed, in a journey of above 1200 miles, I never saw one of them stumble. Their harness consists of little else than common ropes, which you supply yourself. In general, about half an hour was requisite to yoke a couple of horses to our carriage. Posting is under the regulation of government. Post-houses are provided at regular distances all over the country. The person who keeps these houses is called the gastgifar, and he is obliged by law to keep a certain number of horses for posting. These vary from one to twenty, but the usual number is two, four, or six. Besides these, there is a certain number which the peasants in the neighbourhood are obliged to furnish, and to send once a day to the post-house; these are called hollhaster, or relay horses; these vary from two to twenty-two. In some countries, as Smoland, where the population is small, and the intercourse not great, there are no hollhaster at all. In travelling through such countries, unless you take care to send a person before you, you are quite sure to be detained several hours at each stage before horses can be procured. There is a third class of horses, called reserve horses, and which in fact consist of all the horses in the district. These the post-master is entitled to call upon, in case of necessity; but a considerable time always elapses before they can be procured. If you wish to drive rapidly in Sweden, you must send a person before you, to order horses by a particular hour. This person is called a forbod, and by means of him you may travel as rapidly in Sweden as in England.

You pay for horses at the rate of eighteen skillings, or ninepence sterling per horse, for the Swedish mile, which is almost exactly equal to 6-2/3 English miles. But when you take horses from a town, however small, the rate of posting for that stage is increased 50 per cent, or instead of eighteen skillings you pay twenty-seven skillings, or thirteen-pence halfpenny per mile. The boy that goes with you to bring back the horses expects something; he is very well satisfied with about twopence sterling. When you go to a stage, you must inquire for the hollenkar, a boy kept by the post-master for the purpose of getting horses for travellers. When he brings the horses, he generally expects something for his trouble, though he does not always get it. In every post-house there is a day-book kept, in which you write your name, where you are going, where you came from, how many horses you take; and if you have met with any grievance, there is a place for noting down your complaint. These day-books are carried once a month to the Governor of the district to be inspected: so that if any irregularity happens, it cannot remain unknown. I observed many complaints in these day-books, but they were never made by Swedes, always by foreigners. Hence I concluded that most of them were imaginary, and arose from ignorance of the laws and customs of the country.

IN the midst of antiquities and silk-spools, olive and mulberry-trees, I am transposed, as it were, to another region. Yesterday morning, at nine, we separated; this was caused by changing with another diligence, which arrived an hour sooner. We were now ferried over to the Carmagne in a boat (which supplies the place of the bridge of boats carried away in 1789), struck through Trinquetaille, which forms a part of the suburbs or Arles; passed over it in a ferry-boat, and were at once in Languedoc.

The country, the people, in short, everything I saw here, had quite a different appearance. The rough brutality of the natives of Provence had changed into a cunning insinuativeness, their violent gesticulation into an almost solemn and measured mein, their shrill voices into mellow tones. The ruddy complexion, fiery eyes, and jetty hair, were every where supplied by pale faces, blue eyes, light hair; even the black and brown garments gave place to light-blue or white.

The soil is no less changed than the people. Instead of a parched, barren ground, we trod on the most fruitful and luxuriant soil, flowery meadows, lovely fields watered by fresh streams, contrasted with dark hills of olive and other fruit-trees. In short, every thing here discovers a mild and fruitful disposition of nature, and a soft and gentle people.

Towards noon we arrived at Bellgrade, a pretty little village, encompassed with gardens, orchards, and mulberry plantations; every where domestic regularity, every where the greatest industry, and even perhaps a certain anxious parsimony was discoverable. The large wine-pitchers of Provence were here changed into bottles; the bread, not set whole before you on the table, but cut into pieces; the dishes appeared to us less, and the portions smaller; even the wine itself appeared, from its paleness and light colour, to have received a dilution of water in the cellar.

From here onwards the roads are better, for the revolution itself has not been able completely to destroy the excellent chaussées. We now flew swiftly on between rows of budding trees till we came in sight of Nismes, which lay in the midst of a spacious and beautiful plain, resembling a cultivated garden.

A row of hills extends on each side, skirted with villages and plantations, while on the opposite side of the vale the Tour-magne gradually closes the perspective with its venerable ruins.

Thus encompassed with endless vegetation and increasing sweets, we reached the suburbs, which we no sooner entered than we saw ourselves in a labyrinth of narrow, dirty streets, and industrious silk-manufacturers. We proceeded to the Hotel du Louvre*, which stands only in a miserable little street, but very near to a large square.

Here I have taken possession of a corner room, from which I propose writing to you every evening an account of whatever remarkable has happened during the day. I hope Nismes will afford me sufficient matter, especially since in my researches I can avail myself of an excellent topographical work, by Cincens, which contains a number of interesting remarks upon the climate, manufactures, inhabitants, agriculture, antiquities, &c. The careful regularity and arrangement will be the more acceptable to you, since there have been but a few copies of this valuable work printed, and those few are carcely known out of this place.

HAVING concluded my remarks on the climate, I will proceed to make a few topographical observations, not omitting domestic economy.

Nismes, 43° 50’ 35” N. Lat. and 2° 1’ 11” Lon. eastward of Paris, is elevated about 143° above the surface of the sea; and lies in a fertile valley, circumscribed by two parallel rows of hills, open to the N. E. and S. W. The whole forms an immense irregular quadrangle, extending itself from N. to S. and filled by two chief divisions, the town itself, and the eight suburbs. he flat contents of the former are computed at one thousand five hundred and fifty toises, and that of the latter at double the number; the circumference of the whole is computed at three thousand tioses. The population, or according to the latest and best calculations, amounts to between 39,000 and 40,000 souls.

The town offers nothing but a labyrinth of streets, intersecting each other in innumerable directions, and is extremely close and unhealthy. The houses are small, and inconvenient; the ground floors are mostly sunk into the earth, and even the upper ones are almost always deficient in light and air. Besides, they are all built with the hardest free-stone, and the plaister appears to consist of a sort of sparry lime-stone.

The suburbs, however, are much more airy and healthful, containing broad and straight streets, gardens, avenues, squares, and handsome houses in abundance. The Crucimale and the Richelieu are the most agreeable and healthful spots in the suburbs, both standing on rather high terraces, refreshed with fine breezes, warmed by the sun, and provided with excellent water. The most unhealthy places, on the contrary, are the fauxbourgs St. Laurent and de la Boncarie; the first on account of the numerous cocoa coppers, and the last on account of the many lime-kilns: notwithstanding there are many fine gardens to be met with. Nismes contains very few fine wooden buildings; but the more numerous are the remains of Roman antiquity, to the mention of which I shall devote a couple of separate letters.

Provisions, &c. are rather reasonable; lodging, dinner, and supper may be had at the Luxembourg and Louvre, for from eight to nine livres a day; in the suburbs two neatly furnished rooms may be had for from twenty to thirty livres a month; in these houses board is also given, if required. But firing is extremely dear, the wood and coals all coming from the Cervennes.

The water here is as bad as can be conceived, and contains much lime and selenite. In places where there are many dye-houses, drains, &c. it contracts almost always, on account of the great shallowness of the springs, a number of heterogeneous particles. The springs in the northern parts of the town, particularly in the fauxbourg Crucinale, appear to be the very purest and best. The mineral spring has from its visitors obtained the character of being saline and laxative: to keep up its reputation, the speculating waiters incorporate it with all sorts of drastics. But I will proceed to the wine, over which it is easy to forget the badness of the water.

Both red and white wines are to be had here, and the last justly deserves the ‘estimation in which it is held;’ both indeed have a certain spirituous flavour, but are extremely strengthening and nourishing, although they soon affect the head, even if very moderately enjoyed. A small difference is made in the prices of the red and white whines, a bottle of the former (of a good quality) costing ten, and the latter twelve sous: besides these, very good Frontignac may be found here at forty, and old Lunel at fifty sous; but which are, notwithstanding, very different from the Hanseatic wines: Languedoc, and other wines may be had here at a very moderate expense.

The fineness of the bread and meat, immediately remind the traveller of the luxuriant meadows and pastures of Languedoc. The fish, which is had either immediately from the sea, or from the salt ponds, is both abundant and delicious. Vegetables and fruits are of equal value, and the seeds of the former constitute an important branch of trade.

YOUR fears are groundless, my dear friend, I have by no means forgotten to speak of the police of this place; my only difficulty lies in speaking according to truth and propriety. But since you insist on it, I will begin with informing you, that the influence of the all-subverting revolution is in this respect still felt. There is indeed a police bureau, organized like the fourth section of prefecturates; but it appears upon the whole, perhaps for want of sufficient support, by no means active enough. This I think I can maintain in one weighty point at least.

To the cleanliness of the streets, there appears to be not the least regard. In the town particularly, all sorts of filth remains before the doors; even in the populous quarter Les Bourgades, the dung is prepared, as in the small provincial towns: add to this, the slaughtering of all animals before the doors; and that the sinks from all manufactories run into the streets; that the foul dregs of all kinds of preparations are thrown there; that the north-wind seldom blows, and leaves the greater influence for the south. If you take all this into consideration, you will perceive that a negligence in the police, which so much adds to the mortality of a town, can only be excused by their want of resources.

Here is no great want of social intercourse, and the inhabitants of this place are upon the whole, a tolerably social and obliging people. To those who like a walk, without going far for it, I recommend the Esplanade, between the suburbs Richelieu and la Bouronne; the Course, in the fauxbourg St. Laurent, and the Park, as it is called, near the famous spring. The esplanade is the most resorted to in summer, the course in winter, and the park in spring.

For strangers, the former possesses the greatest attractions, on account of its fine prospects; and the latter, for its remarkable springs; yet both are exposed to the wind. Those who like more extensive walks, will find them in the country which surrounds the town, and in the whole district le Faillable.

The lovers of other amusements are provided with two theatres (the largest of which, in the town, is pretty good), several neat coffee-houses, (among which the Café de Martinet deserves notice) balls, concerts, and licensed gaming-houses.

Those who like reading, will find full satisfaction in the public library of the Lyceum, open every other day, near the great theatre, and in the shops of many good booksellers.

Finally, those who like to pass their time in studying of antiquity, natural history, or rural life, will find full employment in contemplating the splendid ruins of antiquity and surrounding scenery of Nismes, and in examining the various interesting cabinets which are here open to their inspection. I shall avail myself of these advantages, and intend devoting a few letters to the subjects they offer, which I wish however to recommend to your kind indulgence.

PREPARE yourself, my dear friend, to read in this letter of nothing but trade. I have been employed during the whole of this day in collecting information concerning the commercial relations of Nismes; and will impart to you all that I have heard and read on the subject. The trade of Nismes branches into several divisions, the first and chief of which is formed by the silk trade; which is again divided into three part, namely, the trade in raw silk, spun silk, and silk manufactures. That in raw silk may be either active or passive: active, since in plentiful years much is sold to the other provinces; and passive, when foreign silk is imported either for immediate use, or for more extensive debit as transit goods. The trade in spun silk extends itself to every sort of possible preparation, and descends even to flock and floret silks; it is, indeed, confined totally to the supply of the town manufactories; yet they sell every year, upon an average, fifty thousand pounds. The trade in silk manufactures is divided into that in ribbons, stockings, floret, and stuffs. The ribbons are sold to the amount of 158,000 pieces, which, if calculated at the average price of 50 souse, produces a sum of 392,000 livers: they are dispersed over all France, and a great part of Europe.

Formerly not less than a hundred thousand dozen of silk stockings were disposed of in Europe, of which at least a sixth part went to Spain; but the preference given to English silk stockings in the northern parts of Europe, and the regulations in Spain which exclude the French, have materially diminished this branch of exportation; but yet it remains one of the most considerable and lucrative in Nismes, since it may be estimated at 5,616,000 livres yearly.

I now come to the chief division of he Nismes trade. A great part of the cloths and other woolen stuffs which are manufactured in the province, pass through the hands of the great woolen-drapers of this place, and receive here their last finishing; after which they are exported by sea and land under the general title of Languedoc cloths: including the retail trade, this branch amounts to 2,500,000 livres.

A third branch is formed by the linen and lace trade, which, in union with other manufactures, produces also annually 3,500,000 livres. Corn constitutes a fourth branch; and, including the trade in seeds and drugs, affords an annual produce of 2,100,000 livres.

The corn trade is partly active and partly passive: active, when they send corn to Languedoc and Burgundy; and passive, when in bad years they receive it from Italy and Africa. The seed trade is very considerable to Holland, England, Denmark, Sweden, and Russia, where the seeds of Nismes are in great repute. The trade in drugs is particularly lively with the Cevennes, and is carried on by exchange. The leather trade, is finally, the most active in Spain, Italy, and the interior parts of the republic: it amounts yearly to about 440,000 livres.

IF you ask me whether Arles contains any thing very remarkable, I must candidly answer you, “Very little.”

To begin with the inhabitants. To me they appear a sort of provincial Dutch. They are phlegmatic, quiet, and good-natured, though not without a certain mixture of southern vivacity and tranquillity. They are lustier than those of the other provinces; their features are notwithstanding strong, and they have countenances such as are peculiar to all the inhabitants of the south. Would one describe them in a few words, it could not be done with more justice than the words of my fellow-traveller, “ce sont des Hollandois au vin.”

The women ofArles have always been famous for their beauty; yet I must confess that few handsome faces have fallen in my way, though I sought them very attentively. Lovely children indeed, and particularly sweet little girls, I saw in plenty; whence I conceive that the climate, and endemial diseases, universally disfigure the person.

Every thing here appears pretty reasonable; but for society here are no resources; a few natural curiosities and antiquities are all that interest the stranger.

For the lover of natural history I must notice the number of aquatic plants which are found in the marshes, ponds, and canals, as well in Arles and its vicinity, as in the Carmagne. Among them are, the Limonium maritimum, Atriplex maritima, Cheiranthus maritimus, Frankenia rampens, Rubeola maritima, Kali spinosum, Salsola, Alisma plantago, Lycopus palustris, Typha palustris major et minor (of which the people of Marseilles make chair-bottoms), Tamariscus Narboncusis, florib. pentandr. (from which in Arles they make little casks, cups, and jugs, in which water receives a dissolving quality), &c.

The number of aquatic fowl is no less worthy of attention; for example, several rare species of the Ardea and Scolopar, which the ornithologist can here find, and can better describe than I. Quite as remarkable are the stone-quarries near Arles, which have a stony property quite peculiar to themselves. The stone, which is sent to Marseilles and Toulon, is full of coral and other similar substances.

What the antiquarian will find particularly interesting here, is first and obelisk of granite which stands in the market-place, and is about fifty feet high. Antique it certainly is, and most probably belonged to a circus; but that it has been brought from Egypt, is by no means clear. This much is however certain; that it was first discovered in 1389; but not dug up till 1675, when it was set up in honour of Louis XIV. The ornaments on the pedestal are much mutilated, and a tin cap of liberty is now found on the top.

Secondly, the amphitheatre, which history informs us was built by Julius Cesar. But, alas! it is in bad preservation: all the porticoes being built up; all the steps destroyed; and both within and without the main wall, houses are built. To judge of the size of the area, we must mount the top of a house, from which we may perceive that the whole must have consisted of about sixty arches. In the main wall there are some towers, which are most probably of Gothic origin.

Thirdly, the Elysian Fields, or Alichamps as they are here called. It is easy to perceive that they have been a burying-place; from the number of sarcophagi, both christian and heathen, which are indiscriminately scattered about. The most curious heathen antiquities belonging to them have been already described by Montfançon, and are perhaps dispersed in different cabinets. The christian antiquities were preserved till the revolution in the neighbouring church of the Minorities: but were despoiled among other treasures in 1794; as were many of the finest sarcophagi, together with statues, paintings, monuments, &c. belonging to the cathedral church; nearly every thing has fallen before the revolutionary mania. To those who wish for more historical information, I recommend the undermentioned treatise*.

But I will say no more on a town which affords so little that is pleasant. it is seven o’clock in the evening; the diligence has just arrived, and the driver informs me there is a place to spare. I close this letter amidst the bustle of half a hundred conscripts and carters, who are all drinking and gaming. The whole inn is in an uproar, the spits with the roast meat are merrily turning round, and our good-natured fat host is preparing the wine. Farewell, my dear friend! I shall now repair with my three diligence-companions to a small room for supper, and hope to-morrow by this time to be safe at Nismes.

*Mémoires sur l’Ancienneté du la Ville d’Arles, et sur ses Antiquitiés, par M. Anibert, 179. 12 L. 151

...before I speak more of the society of Naples, which is as dull to talk of, as agreeable to partake of, I will tell you of an expedition I made to Mount Vesuvius.

We drove from Naples to Herculaneum, where we mounted mules and with guides rode up to the hermitage call'd il Salvatore where, after taking a little repast with the hermit, we mounted our mules again, and proceeded about half way up the mountain, where we were oblig'd to alight, and by the means of cords fastened round the waists of our guides which we held, were pull'd heavily up to the top of the mountain more dead than alive after the exertion.

From Herculaneum to above the hermit's cells, the lava, over which we rode, had the appearance of dirty melted iron reduced to cinders and all was loose crumbling dross and ashes in which we plunged half way up our legs, and these materials giving way under our feet, we slid back almost every step we went, till our guides, with the help of staffs fork'd with iron stay'd their hold, and so advanc'd us after them by degrees. By the time I got to the top, my foot was bleeding through my boot, tho' I had on a pair of strong ones, made for the occasion.

The view this eminence commands is really charming of all the principal objects of the town, shore, Bay, coast of Agia, etc. We held a council of war, and it was agreed the ladies, who were Mrs. Derby, a beautiful little American, and myself, should sit contemplating the view, while the gentlemen descended into the crater. However, we were suddenly fired with a spirit of enterprise, and resolv'd on going too, which we accomplish'd at the peril of our lives. For we were obliged to totter round the edge of the gulph on this crumbling cindery soil, which was so shallow that one cou'd scarcely walk, and the frightful depth of the crater to the left, and the steep side of the mountain to the right really render'd it perilous beyond description. Mrs. Derby kneel'd down, shut her eyes, and had herself trail'd along as well as she cou'd. My head got giddy and I thought I should have fainted with fright. However the deed was to be done, and committing myself to the conduct of three guides who hook'd my arm upon a pole, and dragg'd me along, I also shut my eyes, and at length got to the spot where we descended into the crater.

The same loose slaty sort of cinders were to be waded through till we got to the bottom. The general appearance of the surface was dark green and yellowish from the quantities of smoking sulphur and so broken into waves that it look'd like the sea in storm, suddenly congeal'd. The fissures in the sides of the mountain emitted a curly white smoke, which issuing from all parts intercepted the atmosphere, and made us feel the heat suffocating, so that we did not spend above half an hour at the bottom. However whether an eruption was to have sent us flying up into the air like rockets or a fiery gulph of boiling lava to have open'd under our feet, it did not signify, for we were obliged to rest after our fatigues, and the way Mrs. Derby employ'd herself was writing a little letter to her friends in America, descriptive of the surrounding scenery.

The extent we contemplated all around us of angry volcanic substance wrench'd into shapeless masses, some day to burst up into a shower of death as formerly on Pompeia and Herculaneum gave such a wild chaotic guise to all we saw, that nothing could more properly substantiate the picture of Milton's Pandemonium than the scene of which we form'd our ornamental part, smoked as we were like demons, 'prone on the ground extended long and large and floating many a rood.'

In many places the heat was insupportable to the touch and when again we found ourselves on the top of the volcano, the scene had varied into starlight beauty, which little required the contrast it received by rising as we did grim out of the bowels of the earth. The Bay expanded in a wider circumference and look'd like a sheet of mother of pearl studded throughout with its lovely islands, circled by its orange wooded shores...

Al this time our poor dear long-ear'd mules were waiting either with Christian or Mythologic patience tramping the hollow mountain, and tumbling great masses rattling to its base, which seem'd descending down a mile from the return of their echoes.

We trotted down almost as rapidly as the stones fell, retraced our roads of lava, pumice, and vitrification, and return'd to Herculaneum, or rather Portici, where the carriages were waiting in which we drove full speed back again to Naples..

Yesterday I was to have gone to Fiesole with the Miss Berries but she thought it too cold. At 12 she sent the carriage for me. I found Agnes alone with an Englishwoman who lives in the story above them who was preaching remedies for Miss Berry who is eternally plagued with headaches and oppression upon her head. She soon departed and Agnes took me off to the Gallery. The air has still all the sharp coldness of a frosty morning but the sun was hot. I was glad of an additional shawl. The gallery was full of a parcel of English whom I wished any where but near me. In the first place when one is on the continent why see one's countrypeople. I declare the sight of them sickens me and to be doomed to hear all the vulgar English exclamations--Ah Lord now look there---only think &c &c which abound at a fair or as now transported after one into Italy and into the Gallery of Florence is really more than bearable. At all times I dislike seeing such things in a crowd particularly in an English one. There is a certain géne which they always occasion. Whereas I am quite at my ease with a million of dirty old Doctors, snuffy foreigners &c none of whom would ever despise one or quize on as would the English. But laying all that aside no géne no English nothing could prevent one from feeling the extreme beauty of the Chef d'oeuvres kept in the Room called the Tribuna. Before me was the Venus of Medicis which but a few years ago I saw placed in the gallery of the Louvre. How wonderful that the late changes in the world may be traced even in the situation of a statue. Devoid of any relative ideas it appears a matte of small importance whether this sculptured Goddess should be worshipped at Paris or at Florence but considering the matter in another point of view it was but too clear that Florence must retain her right. Justice pleaded all powerful in her favour and if Napoleon the head spring of his wonderful mechanism was deplaced, all the minor effects of his labour must be at an end and each separate object whose position he had changed must needs in justice (which in the last great Epoch of Europe was nearly all powerful) be removed to its former situation.----It seems also wonderful to me that at times what importance there is in the position of a statue. Its value is ideal. I cannot explain what I would write, and yet who can view such a beauty in an inanimate stone without questioning himself inwardly from whence came the power that guided the hand of the Sculptor in such a wondrous representation of all that is most beautiful in nature. It is the mind alone which can ever attain to such a degree of immutable perfection. The wrestlers, the slave grinding his knife, the fawn and the Apollo formed the circle of the statues. The walls are covered with the Chef d'oeuvres of the first painter which I remember too imperfectly to speak of.

We slept at Cassello a small place about three leagues from Piacenza. It is a horrible place but as we dare not travel after it is dark the voituriers preferred remaining here for the night. We were given three very dirty bedrooms containing in all seven beds in which we contrived to sleep. We supped upon a large open gallery looking upon the court yard where at least if nothing else was good we enjoyed freely the fine warm air of the evening. Towards the end of supper a horrible looking man and woman went by our table to pass to their bedroom which opened like all the others upon the gallery. The man said nothing but the woman as she passed said in a low voice which sounded like a death sentence Bon Appetit, to which mamma answered courteously bowing as she spoke. After a few minutes Eleanor made us observe him at his door which was at a great distance examining us carefully. Presently he walked slowly by us staring hard. The waiter came up----he retired---again the waiter went off and again he returned always coming a little nearer and fixing his villainous countenance upon us more strongly than before. The whole passed a second time till at length he came so near us with so deadly an appearance that mamma said she could bear it no longer and desired me to call David. It had exactly the appearance as if he was watching an opportunity either with or without the waiter to attack. We had heard lately of several depredations and actually met 3 men handcuffed and guarded by armed soldiers on horse back.

At last David came, mamma pretended to have wanted something and we all hastily left the supper table as if we had done. t our particular desire David with his loaded pistols and the two voituriers slept in a room close by us and with this as a guard we went to bed none with a very light heart. The stairs leading to the gallery were perfectly open and we had absolutely nothing shut but the doors of our rooms. Fatigue made me sleep for the first hours of the night but at length I awoke, and long did I remain shaking and fearing and then hoping and fearing again at every noise I heard. About midnight I heard a slight stir in the house then some vehicle or another rolled out of the court. I fancied it must be the man. But presently I heard close to our door a smothered clearing of the throat followed by a low whispering of men's voices. This too could be none in my heated imagination but the man and an assistant settling where they should begin. Again all was quiet and I was left tolerably calm but ever on the watch to gaze upon my sleeping companions who indeed seemed to enjoy

Towards morning I fell asleep for a short time and might too have enjoyed myself but the hour for getting up was fixed and whether rested or not it was necessary to get up.

As we drove through St Maurice this morning where half the people are Catholic and indeed all through the remainder of the Valais, I could not help exclaiming now we are heretics.

Yes now everyone is Catholic said some one. It was six O clock when we set out daylight was in the dawn and there was still a solitary star shining brightly. From my room window I listened to a conversation that passed between some common people at the Inn door. He bien Monsieur j'ai lhonneur de vous souhaiter un bien bon voyage porter vous bien et surtout n'oubliez pas de leur faire bien mes complimens. To which the other who was an old decent looking man in black answered Mille remercimens monsieur j'irai expres leur faire visite. At the same minute an old man looking something like an idiot but at the same time not quite without sense, said que Dieu vous conduit monsieur et moi aussi. He then hobbled away laughing archly.

This though of little interest may serve to show the manners of the common people which in every respect are so much more civil and agreeable than those of the lower class of the English.

The scenery of St Maurice delighted me extremely, the light and airy bridge of one arch thrown across the Rhone which runs here with a very strong currant is said to have been built by Julius Caesar. On the opposite side of it there is an old Chateau too much in ruins to be inhabited. We stopped for a few minutes opposite the Cascade between St Maurice and Martigny. It is a very wonderful thing. The pale moon was to be seen above and the rainbow occasioned by the effect of the sun across the spray of the winter lay below. It is a curious and beautiful scene and might be an excellent subject for the pen of a poet. Several people collected around the carriage to sell stones of different kinds which they called des minerales. I bought one and the horn of a chamois. We stopped at Martigny at about 10 O clock for a few hours and dined after walking abut the village. It is a little spot very beautifully situated entirely surrounded by high mountains, which though worthy of admiration for mere travellers must be dreadful as a place of abode. Most of the people have goiters and there is an unwholesome feeling in the air.

Last Wednesday Walter arrived here after having visited great part of Switzerland which he entered by Schaffousen. He says that upon the whole he likes travelling but does not appear to me to enjoy it as much as I should. Mr. Burn the long nosed companion de voyage seems although in a very moderate and quiet way to feel the charm of what he sees more than Walter. They told us an entertaining anecdote of their travels. At Berne they agreed with a voiturier to pay him 6 Louis for a certain distance and were stepping into the carriage when he suddenly exclaimed Messieurs vous me payerez huit Louis au moins, and absolutely refused to go on for less. Having no time to waste in argument they immediately went before the magistrate who decided in favour of Walter. The voiturier although greatly mortified was obliged to do the job for 6 Louis but before they left the Inn the Landlord warned Walter that the voiturier had received private injunctions from his master to overturn them if possible.

About 9 O clock at night Walter who was falling asleep felt the carriage suddenly run off the road on to grass. Recollecting the warning of the Landlord he pulled out his pistol and threatened the coachman in bad French to shoot him if he did not drive more carefully: the voiturier made a thousand declarations against all bad intentions but paid some attention to Walter's threats and no accident happened. The story was told with some humour and made me laugh considerably,

All these disputes arise totally from the fault of the natives. They begun by imagining that every English person must be rich and that in consequence their charges could never be too high. When the English began to find this out they on their side were doubly sharp and thought they could never diminish enough on all charges. This has occasioned a misunderstanding between the English and all foreigners which is to be regretted as it occasions disputes in which the English are frequently provoked and often much to blame.. The story of Walter and the voiturier has already got about with a sufficient number of embellishments. It is very disadvantageous for the English that such things should ever have taken place as all alike are considered with an evil eye and bear a bad character in the country. The story of John (which I have mentioned already in my red book) throws a shade over us and indeed all our countrymen. A thing of the same kind happened not long ago and these two examples are quite sufficient to give the English a bad character. Mad'lle Hen'tte tells us that nothing else was talked of last winter and now every person that one meets asks et qu'est donc devenu vorre pauvre freré to which is added some excuse and condolence. The other day we met old Mde Rosset coming up the Rue du Bourg who immediately entered upon the subject and kept us full half an hour at a shop door talking over the whole story and excusing and abusing him by turns. Today Mr and Mad'e de Saussure who are come for a few days to see Lord Bredalbane and his family came in hopes of seeing mamma (who is now gone to Geneva for a few days). he immediately began to question me about John and as always happens let out fresh accounts of his cunning and deceit when he was trying to excuse him. The whole of this affair has vexed me much and it may through a veil in the eyes of the world over every future merit that John may have.

Couche 1/2 p. 10. Rose at 6 for the first time in six months. Dreamed engaged to marry a huge ugly beast; name unknown; reflections; Mary A ; deliberated whether to blow out brains or perform engagement; waked by the striking of 6. Do remind me to give you a dissertation on locking doors. Every person of every sex and grade comes in without knocking; plump into your bedroom! They do not seem at all embarrassed, nor think of apologizing at find in bed or dressing or doing---no matter but go right on and tell their story as if it were all right. If the door be locked and the key outside (they use altogether spring locks here), no matter, they unlock the door and in they come. It is vain to desire them to knock; they do not comprehend you and if they do, pay no manner of attention to it. It took me six weeks to reach my old Anna not to come in without knocking and leave and finally it was only by appearing to get into a most violent passion and threatening to blow out her brains, which she had not the least doubt I would do without ceremony. I engage she is the only servant in all Sweden who ever knocks. Notwithstanding all my caution I have been almost every day disturbed in this way, and once last week was surprised in the most awkward situation imaginable. So, Madame, when you come to Svenska, remember to lock the door and take the key inside.

11 June. Mr. D'Aries waked me at 5. At 1/2 p. 7 went with him and his son in their one-horse phaeton, to Drottningholm. A very beautiful ride; cross four large bridges. Madame D. went last evening with Mr. de Castre. At 11 went to witness the service at a country church, about 1-1/2 miles from the Palace. A neat, pretty, ancient building; low, arched; several pictures; a narrow alley through the middle, and seats (pews) on each side. The women on the left and men on the right; about an equal number on each side; perhaps 150 of each sex. The organ playing when I cam in, and they were singing a psalm to the tune we call Old Hundred. Sacrament day. All partook, going up about twenty at a time, men and women promiscuously. The priest and his clerk, or curé, administered. The all returned very much affected; the women in tears, and many sobbing; the psalm going on all the while. I stood in the isle, no one taking the least notice of me. The musa, the principal head-dress of the women. Two very beautiful young women, who were near me, in black, the head a la mode. Returned to d'Aries, and we went through the garden to see the palace, he having engaged one of the keepers as cicerone.

Just as we entered the Palace met Countess Bunge and Comtesse Löwenhaupt, Baron Wrangle, Captain Dirden, et al'i. Went all together into the first salle. While I was examining a statue, the ladies and their party, with our guide went out, but whither we could not discover; and after half an hour of fruitless search and inquiry we returned to the gardens, and to that part called Canton; thence home to dinner at.2. Mr. D. exceedingly mortified and vexed that our chaperon had thus left us in the lurch. He expected several persons to dine, but on one of them came.

After dinner walked to see Madame de Castre and her daughter. Both of very pleasant manner. The mother very ladylike; nè Polonaise. Le Mari formerly in the orchestra of Gustavus III. Both now enjoying pensions. M'lle tout plien de talents. Paints in oil in a manner to have attracted notice and admiration at the exhibition. Pince la harpe superieurement. Danse (comme on dit) comme une ange. Vis. enjouee. 18; jol. taille. At 4 Madame de Castre came to take tea with us; but Madame d'Aries rather presumptuously told her we were engaged. She went off and we walked out to take tea with Madame-----; Madame and all the family abroad. Went then to Dr.-------, medecin du Roi, Gustavus IV.; out also; but an elderly lady permitted us to see his pictures. Chez nous at 6. Brought Madame de Castre to sup with us. Before supper went to the tower; in ruins; extensive and picturesque views. After supper saw Madame and M'lle to chez eux. There are still a few Russian prisoners here; a small hospital. The situation of the Palace and disposition of the grounds very beautiful. Profusion of statues, principally bronze and tout nud. Everything in decay. Two ladies on horseback. One riding al' Angloise, the other en cavalier, with scarlet waist-jacket and white overalls, a la Turc ou Perse; very wide; a round hat with feathers. She had a very fine form, and made an elegant appearance.

June 19. Couche at 1/2 p. 12. Lev. At 1/2 . 8. Slept like a log the whole time. Was to have called on Dr. G at his house in town at 10, but did not go there till 11. He had waited and gone. Spent an hour hunting for Cutteau's without success. Roved about for two hours sans accid. Home at 3. Milk and brot for dinner. At 5 set off to walk to Drottningholm, the rain notwithstanding, having a good pr. de bottes and a large umbrella. Walked it in two hours, being about 6 1/2 miles; raining great. AT the bridge was overtaken by young de Castre (le menuisier) who was returning from town in cabriole (cart). Got in; my coat rubbing on the wheel and all mud, which with the aid of the two maids at Drottningholm washed off. Sent out for sugar, coffee, bread, and a pipe; not one of these articles to be had. Consoled myself with a little skimmed milk and warm water and at 9 went to de Castre's Recu tres gracieusement. Supped on philibonka. Home at 1/2 p. 10. Couche at 1/2 p/ 11.

June 20. Slept sound till 9! This must be the milk diet which produces such inordinate sleep. Dressed out again for the materials for breakfast. Madame de Castre met the servant, saw her basket, and came over herself for me to tell me that it was vain to try to get breakfast for me there and that hers was waiting for me. I was then al fresco. Made myself up, went over, and found an excellent breakfast. The family had breakfasted about four hours before. At 1/2 p/ 11 Madame and M'lle de Castre went with me to see the Palace. The wäckmyster attended us, and we passed two hours in going through the rooms. Not so extensive as the chateau in Stockholm, but the pictures mieux choisies. I could pass for hours a day there for a month, with pleasure, to examine the pictures and statues. Of the latter, however, not many. Returned at 1/2 p. 1 Went to my inn ad D. to repose and fum. Returned to dine at 1/2 p. 2. After dinner, coffee. All went to D. at 6. Mr. and Madame D. had just arrived from town. At 1/2 p. 6 commenced my march home. The Dev. sent that U. after me; walked together two miles. Ret. en boi; 3/4 r. d. Gave the wackm'r who showed us the Palace half a dollar banco. Got home at 1/2 p. 9, not at all fatigued. Milk and bro. for supper. Hosack came in at 11 and we played chess till 1. No letter, not a line from any human being nor any other being since I left London. "Ça ne vaut rien apres dinè . Il gate la digestion."

THERE is a very fine raven belonging to this Hotel, with a mane like a cock. He spoke the word Napoleon distinctly. Grumpy tells us there was one in this city which was known to be a hundred years old, and used to wander about the place whither he pleased, being known to every man, woman, and child as the old Raven, and held sacred accordingly, till a year or two age, when some French soldiers killed it in mere mischief.

Mr. Locker, when we fell in with him at Bruges, earnestly advised us not to omit seeing the quarries at Maestricht, which are the most remarkable excavations of their kind. We hired two hackney coaches at six francs each to take us thither, and according to custom drove thro' them in the usual route. But the horses in one turned restive, and had nearly overturned it. The way, owing to the rain, proved actually impassable; of necessity therefore we got out, and fearful of her catching cold, I carried Edith May over the wet ground. We entered the hill, or mountain as it is called, under a low arch of masonry, where my Lady Governess, feeling the oppressiveness of the air, would fain have turned back, if I would have permitted her, or if there had been any one to have returned with her. But we soon past this low entrance and found ourselves in the excavations, where, dead as the air is, and motionless, it produces no sense of weight or suffocation. We continued walking about an hour and at a good brisk pace in these endless labyrinths, where I believe none of the party felt themselves perfectly at ease except the Guide, for irretrievably lost we mush have been without him, as soon as we had lost sight of the entrance.

Certainly it is not prudent to venture into such a labyrinth, with only one guide who knew the way, and no more than two flambeaux, which were both lighted at the same time. But I determined, in case these should by any accident fail us, to sit down immediately and wait till we should be missed at the Hotel and search made for us. For if we remained in any part of the regular course, there we should be found. Among the names inscribed on the white stone pillars and roof was that of Ellen Locker. Buonaparte had been there, and the Prince of Orange. The sides, indeed, were everywhere marked with the memorials of former visitors. They led us to a stone hollowed like a bason, into which water continually falls from the roof, drop by drop; and to a chapel decorated upon the excavated sides with drawings of Purgatory, etc., by no means ill-executed. Here and there were other drawings, heads, or whole length figures, and in one place a Cherubim's head. We were told that these excavations extended all the way to Liege. I believe, indeed that both cities have been built from them.

None of our party were so entirely at their ease during this hour's walk as not to acknowledge a feeling of hearty pleasure when once more in sight of daylight. We debouched upon an eminence above the Meuse, having on the right the ruins of a Castle which the Guide assured us was built by Julius Caesar; and on the left, shut in by the door of what had once been a Convent of Recollets, but is now in great part demolished, and the rest converted into a coffee-house and public garden.

A small toll was demanded of us at the gate, as is customary at Dutch towns after dark. We walked through a long street of lofty houses, and after travelling more than a mile in the city, arrived at a great hotel, called Wappen van Amsterdam, or, The arms of Amsterdam, where we found the best attentions and accommodations.

The day being uncommonly fine, we walked out to look at some of the most interesting objects in Amsterdam. We found, as in other cities of Holland, spacious canals, bordered with trees, running through the middle of the principal streets. The houses are generally of brick, and a large proportion of them are built with one end towards the street, and that end is usually much ornamented. This appears to have been the ancient style of Dutch Architecture, but at the Hague and at Rotterdam, the houses are generally placed as they are in our country and in England, with the proper front towards the street.

The Stadt-house was the first building that we visited. This stupendous pile is famous all the world over; it is a noble structure, and appeared to me to unite a chastened elegance with grandeur and magnificence. The plan is that of two hollow squares; it is constructed of hewn stone, and the walls of the inner parts are adorned with beautiful Mosaic pictures. The pieces of marble are put together with such exquisite art, as to produce so perfect a gradation of colour, that the pencil could hardly delineate with more delicacy, the transitions from white to red, and from shade to light. The pavements are beautifully tessellated, and, in the grand passage, the ecliptic, with all its signs and constellations, done on a great scale, in brass, is inlaid in the marble floor; from the brilliant state of the brass, produced by the attrition of innumerable feet, it seems to have excited universal attention.

The building is five stories high; se ascended to the top, where we had a fine and distinct view of Amsterdam, of the opposite coast of North Holland, of the town of Zaardam, and generally of the Batavian country, as far as we could see, with a bright sun, and e very clear sky.

From this elevation, Amsterdam appears, as it is, a noble and magnificent city; its form is that of a half-moon; its population from two hundred to two hundred and fifty thousand; its situation advantageous for commerce, and its churches, arsenals, and other public buildings, are numerous. Whatever may be said of the rigorous economy of the people of Holland and their private affairs, it must be allowed that on most occasions where the dignity of the nation has been concerned, that they have been extremely munificent. Their public buildings and public works, of every description, are in a style of expense and dignity, which is worthy of an opulent and independent nation: alas! independent no more!

While we were in the cupola, we had an opportunity to examine a very fine chime of bells, with whose loud, but sweet tones, we had frequently pleased while walking the streets; the bells are large, and chime every quarter of an hour.

TO MR. BULL,

Paris, January 26, 1824

SIR, -- As my daughter Lavy, who acts as my amaranthus, is ill-disposed with a cold and guittar, contracted by visiting the Hecatombes last week, I send this without her little billy which she usually sends; my second daughter has sprained her tender hercules in crossing one of the roues, and my third daughter has got a military fever, which, however, I hope, by putting her through a regiment, and giving her a few subterfuges, will soon abate. I am, however, a good deal embracee, as the French say, with so many invalids.

Since I wrote last, I have visited the Hullabaloo, or cornmarket, so called from the noise made in it; Mr. Fulmer told me I should see the flower of the French nation there, but I only saw a crowd of old men and old women; here is a pillow made for judicious astronomy, but which looks like a sun-dial.

We went, on Tuesday, to the symetery of the Chaise-and-pair, as they call it, where the French and English are miscellaneously interred, and I amused myself by copying the epigrams on the tombstones--one of them, which looked like a large bath, Mr. Fulmer told me was a sark of a goose, which I had previously heard my friend Mr. Rogers call Mr. Hume's shirt.

In the afternoon we went to dine at Beau Villiers's--not the Mr. Villiers who owes our Government so much money--but the smell of the postillions which were burning in the rooms quite overpowered me. I got better in the evening, and as the girls were not with us, Mr. Fulmer took me round the Palais Royal, which is a curious place indeed. We saw several Russian war houses, and went into the "Caffe de Milk alone," so called because, when Bonypart confisticated the cargoes from the West Indies, and propagated the use of coffee, the lady who kept this place made a mixture with milk alone, which answered all the purpose of coffee. The room is surrounded by looking-glasses, so that the people are always multiplying when they go there: the lady herself was very beautiful, but Mr. Fulmer told me she was constantly reflected upon. Mr. F. took some melted glass, upon which I did not like to venture, but contented myself with a tumbler of caterpillar and water.

Wednesday we went to the Shampdemars (which is opposite to the Pere Elisee), and saw a review of the Queerasses of the Royal Guard. The sister of the late Dolphin was present--the Dolphin of France is the same as the Prince of Whales in England. The Duke of Anglehome came by, from hunting, just at the time; I am told he is quite a Ramrod in the chace. The troops performed their revolutions with decision, and having manured all over the ground, fired a fille de joy, and returned to their quarters.

We went yesterday to what is their Parliament House, and while we were waiting in the antic-room, I saw a picture of Lewes de Sweet himself, in a large purple robe, lined with vermin and covered with fleur de lice. Being a stranger, I was allowed to look into the chamber; it is not quite what I expected: there seemed to be a man in a bar, with a bell before him, and the men who were speaking spoke all in French, and looked very shabby and mean; to be sure, they were only the deputies--it would have been more lucky if we had seen the members themselves.

Lavy, I think, has got a puncheon for Mr. Fulmer, and I am afraid is a fretting about it, but this is quite cet a dire between us, Mr. B. He says her figure is like the Venus de Medicine, which is no doubt owing to the pulling down she has had of late. We are going next week to Sanclew again, but we travel in such an odd carriage, that I cannot prevail upon myself to mention its name.

You must excuse a short letter to-day. I was determined to write, else I thought our friends in Westminster might be disappointed. You shall hear more at large by the next opportunity. Always yours,

D. J. Ramsbottom.

If you see Mr. R. Tell him Mr. Fulmer has bought him two pictures; one of Ten Years, the other of Old Beans; I am no judge, but they are very black, and shine beautifully--they are considered shift doovers in these parts.

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...The Portuguese Minister and his beautiful wife, Madame Sa, who was his grand niece, are very principal in making us pleasant in Naples. We dined at a most splendid entertainment given by him to all the ambassadors at half past two o'clock, where we met swarms of velvet coats, bags and swords, and after dinner went to the palace where Mr Drummond, in all due form, presented Lady Mount Cashell and me to her Majesty the Queen of Naples.

The audience was not above ten minutes, and then we drove off to the Minister Acton's ball, where we met the King, Queen hereditary Prince and Princess, and all the royal household. On their entrance all their liege subjects fell on one knee and kiss'd their hands and nobody sat in their presence.

The Queen is a sturdy looking dame by no means elegant in her deportment, and trotted about in her black and blue robes much more as if she was crying 'tooky, tooky, tooky!" after her poultry, like a housewife, than a Queen doing the dignities of her drawing room.

The King looks like an overgrown ass, tho' in his demeanour he is exceeding civil. However, his face surpasses any abridgment of imbecility I ever saw in all my life, and the vulgar debauchee reigns triumphant throughout his Majestic exterior.

The hereditary Prince delights in dancing which he does like a cow cantering. Vulgar is no expression to apply to his appearance, for vulgarity becomes genteel within his presence. He danced with his little Spanish bride, and when he is at the bottom of a set, he walks her up to the top again, and sets off kicking up his hoofs, and making a sort of noise like the braying of an ass. His sisters are prettyish, thin and light hair'd, and glittering like all the court in diamonds. The multitudes of fine dress'd people and splendour of the rooms made it exceedingly entertaining, tho' it did not tend much to establish the divine right of monarchs, in any other way than shewing their dissimilarity from any mortals I ever saw before in all my life...

Opposite the window of our room this morning there was one of those foreign views which are so romantic and interesting. It was one of the entries into the town where all the peasants dressed in their bright coloured cottons were continually passing and repassing either seated on well loaded asses or on foot. All appeared animated gay and romantic and formed exactly one of those views which are so often to be seen in Italian paintings. From the gate there was a range of houses of all sizes and shapes, in most pleasing variety and irregularity. Miss de la Chaux admired the view and I said, Yes how much more picturesque than anything one sees in England. She denied this and said compare it to any street in London, Gloucester Place for instance. I owned that for a dwelling place there could of course be no comparison between the two places. But that for the gratification of the eye any foreign town was certainly far superior. Draw them both and see which would make the best picture. Miss de la Chaux could not bear this and answered very shortly that that was not the way to judge of a view. The argument dropt, but when I was alone with mamma, I repeated to her all that had passed and she was entirely of my opinion. She talked and conversed with me most kindly and agreeably, chiefly about the continent. It ended by a mutual agreement that there was no earthly objection for an Englishwoman to marry a foreigner, provided he is rich and a good man. Our conversation is too long to be here repeated but it served to confirm an idea which I have long had wandering in my head.

Our luggage (surely as little as four travellers of gentle appearance and pretensions ever set forth with) was placed upon a handcart, and away we went to the waterside, where we embarked in a boat which carried us along the harbour to the mouth of the Bruges canal. There were not many ships in the port, yet enough to show, in these still waters and between these level shores, that sort of beauty whereof some great painters have become enamoured. A man was fishing from a boat in the harbour; the net was extended by four long and pliant ribs, like those of an umbrella, and thus suspended from the mast; and he, winding it up and down by a windlass, managed it along. it rained while we were in the boat, and when we went on board the Trekschuit,---embarking, as I suppose, at the very place which the English, in one of Mr. Pitt’s expeditions, so absurdly destroyed, and which, when made prisoners, they were very properly compelled to labour in repairing. This was a fact which I did not call to mind without some sense of humiliation.

The Trekschuit, being flat-bottomed, is much more roomy than would be supposed from its size. The best cabin is somewhat splendidly fitted up with cut crimson plus, a seat covered with the same material running round it. There are cabins both at the head and stern, and in the middle a large compartment full of market-women returning from Ostend. The confusion of tongues seemed in our ears to resemble that at Babel; and the vessel itself was a perfect Ark, which some Flemish Antiquary might prove to be built upon the traditional model of Noah’s. It was tantalizing to be kept below by a heavy rain, accompanied by so much wind that I could not keep a window open without incommoding some of the passengers; and this I had neither right nor inclination to do. On the lee side there was luckily a pane wanting in the frame, and thro’ this scanty aperture Edith May and I spied what we could, as the Ark glided along. The banks are protected with rows of hurdle or basket work, five or six in depth we counted, and were told that they were eight or nine thick. I thought I saw rat-holes in the banks.

There were two Flemings in the cabin with us, well-behaved and sensible men. I learnt from one of the that the Beguines were of two orders, one being bound by irrevocable vows, and that this order had not been restored. In the Ramsgate packet was an old lady returning to her native place, Brussels, from which she had been absent eighteen years. She told me that the Beguines lived in community, five or six together, under the superintendence of an older sister, for some seven years, after which they lived as the pleased. Beguinages, according to her account, are rather like Almshouses than Convents.

The rain ceased and we ascended the deck. An iron tiller passes under the state part of the deck, and rises somewhat in the form of a note of interrogation, or the letter S reversed, (?) thus. The pilot stood with his crupper leaning against the handle, and thus with perfect nonchalance steered the vessel. It was drawn by four horses, fastened to two ropes’ but we had so fair a wind that their work was easy, and we advanced about five miles an hour. The country, which towards Ostend had little to recommend it, except the cleanliness of the houses and the appearance of competence and comfort, improved here. There were fewer houses and more trees; and we soon perceived all the features of the Flemish landscape. Fresh as I am from Derwentwater, I can feel the beauties of this kind of country and understand how it should have produced so many painters. It has everything which is soothing and tranquil; still waters, a wide horizon, delicious verdue, fertility, and shade. Trees are not considered injurious to agriculture here, or more probably their value overbalances any injury which they may occasion. The pollard willow often bore no mean resemblance to the cocoa, its light boughs feathering on all sides. Poplar and aspin are more common than elm and oak; and there are no large trees. Their shade might be detrimental, or the regular cutting is lucrative. The cultivation seems to be beautiful, no weeds, no waste: the fields all in parallelograms of different forms and sizes, and all with trees along the ditches which divide them, giving the whole country a woodiness seldom seen in England, and never as accompanying a high state of agricultural improvement. There is a great proportion of garden land. Woad is grown here, and much used as a dye in the Bruges manufactures, I believe. All the houses which we past were neat and apparently comfortable; the doors and window-shutters were generally of a bright green. The bridges over this noble canal are so constructed as to wheel round and afford passage for the vessel.

We reached Bruges a little before dusk; its towers, as we approached, were seen very finely over this sort of country. A crowd gathered round us upon our landing; and a fellow offered to take us and our luggage for two francs to the Fleur de Bled, whither Bedford had recommended me.

Hotel d’Espagne, Paris, 1801. Sunday Dec. 13, or (as they call it here)
le dimanche ce 12me Frimaire, An 10.

...The same day Holcroft came, a family of the name of Rose walk’d into the room as if they had suddenly step’d off of pedestals. They were the first French ladies I had seen and such was the dress of the three demoiselles that I thought some of the statues out of the Louvre had suddenly caught animation, and were come to return the compliments we had paid them in the morning.

Nothing could look more like a little ‘Diana’ than Victoire, in light (almost transparent) drapery, no sleeves to her gown but gold chain twisted round the upper part of her arm into the form of a bracelet and her neck entirely seen. She was remarkably pretty and wore her hair with a crescent like a goddess. her two sisters were in the same style, but had their hair twisted into long snaky curls, from their foreheads down to their chins, and greas’d with what is call’d antique oil.

Madame, their mother, was to much en bon point to have such a sylphlike appearance as her daughters. But she did not add to her size by too much covering. They were all ease and affection of manner. Kiss’d us on both cheeks. Encouraged our speaking French. Offer’d a thousand services, and left us amusingly contented with ourselves, and flatter’d with the hope of their visit being repeated.

‘Lord bless me! How pleasant French manners are!’ Lady Mount Cashell and I exclaim’d with one accord and I felt as if I should have a hundred prisons to get out of, before I cou’d reach half the ease of those amiable mannered little devils... I am ready to run wild, at my ignorance of French.

Now! Now! Now! you are just going to say. What I am resolv’d you shall not, because I am going to say it myself, that I am angry with all these pretty, tripping, curly, tinsel’d, shrugging sparkling little Mademoiselles and Monsieurs, not for their own faults, but mine...

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