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Fashion
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"We dressed up Chamberlayne
in woman's clothes on purpose to pass for a lady,--only think what fun!" |
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Process of the MANUFACTURE
of the SHAWL
(From Elphinstone’s Account of the kingdom of Caubul)
(from the Lady’s Magazine, June 1816)
As the productions of the province of Cashmeer are in high esteem among our fashionables, we insert an account of the manufacture of that costly and elegant article,---the shawl.
A shop may be occupied with one shawl, provided it be a remarkably fine one, above a year, while other shops make six or eight in the course of that period. Of the best and most worked kinds, not so much as a quarter of an inch is completed in one day, by three people, which is the usual number employed at most of the shops. Shawls containing much work are made in separate pieces at different shops, and it may be observed that it very rarely happens that the pieces, when completed, correspond in size.
The shops are fitted up with a frame work, at which the persons employed sit on a bench: their number is from two to four. On plain shawls, two people alone are employed, and a long narrow, but heavy shuttle is used; those of which the pattern is variegated, are worked with wooden needles, there being a separate needle for the thread of each colour; for the latter no shuttle is required.---The operation of their manufacture is, of course, slow, proportionate to the quantity of work which their patterns may require.
The Oostaud, of head workman, superintends while his journeymen are employed near him immediately under his directions. If they have any new pattern in hand, or one with which they are not familiar, he describes to them the figures, colours, and threads which they are to use, while he keeps before him the pattern on which they happen to be employed, drawn upon paper.
During the operation of making, the rough side of the shawl is uppermost on the frame, notwithstanding which, the Oostaud never mistakes the regularity of the most figured patterns. The wages of the Oostaud (the employer furnishing materials) are from six to eight pice per day; of the common workmen, from one to four pice (a pice in Cashmeer is about three half-pence).
A merchant, entering largely into the shawl trade, frequently engages a number of shops, which he collects in a spot under his eye; or he supplies the head workmen with thread which has been previously spun by women and afterwards coloured, and they carry on the manufacture at their own houses, having previously received instructions from the merchant respecting the quality of the goods he may require, their colours, patterns, &c.
After the goods are completed, the merchant carries them to the custom-office, where each shawl is stamped, and he pays a certain duty, the amount of which is settled according to the quality and value of the piece. The officer of the government generally fixes the value beyond what the goods are really worth. The duty is at the rate of one fifth of the price.
Most shawls are exported unwashed, and fresh from the loom. In India, there is no market for unwashed shawls, and in Umritsir they are better washed and packed than in Cashmeer. Of those sent to the westward, many are worn unwashed.
The wool of which the shawls are made is imported from Tibet and Tartary, in which countries alone the goat which produces it is said to thrive. That which is brought from Rodauk is reckoned the best. Its price in Cashmeer is from ten to twenty rupees for a turruk (which is supposed to be about twelve pounds): the whitest sort is the dearest.
It would perhaps be difficult to determine with accuracy the quantity of shawls manufactured annually; supposing, however, that five of all kinds are on an average made at each shop or loom in the course of a year, the number should be eighty thousand, which is probably not far from the truth.
Mr. Elphinstone mentions a carpet made of these valuable materials, estimated at more than ten thousand pounds.
WEDDING DRESSES
At the late Royal Nuptials.
(from the Lady’s Magazine...May, 1816)
The Queen’s Dress. --- A beautiful gold tissue, trimmed with a mixture of gold and silver, having two flounces of brilliant silver net work, richly embossed with stripes of gold lamé and a superb head to the flounces of silver lamé border. The whole had a most novel, grand, and magnificent appearance.
Princess Charlotte’s Dresses. --- 1. The wedding dress, composed of a most magnificent silver lama on net, over a rich silver tissue slip, with a superb border of silver lama embroidery at the bottom, forming shells and bouquets above the border; a most elegant fullness tastefully designed, in festoons of rich silver lama, and finished with a very brilliant rollio of lama; the body and sleeves to correspond, trimmed with a most beautiful point Brussels lace, in a peculiar elegant style. The manteau of rich silver tissue lined with white satin, trimmed round with a most superb silver lama border, in shells to correspond with the dress, and fastened in front with a most brilliant and costly ornament of diamonds. The whole dress surpassed all conception in the brilliancy and richness of its effects. Head dress, a wreath of rose buds and leaves, composed of the most superb brilliants.
2. A Superb gold lama dress, with an elegant border of lama over a white satin slip; the body and sleeves embroidered to correspond, trimmed with an elegant gold blond net in vandyke; also a most magnificent gold tissue manteau, lined with rich white satin, and trimmed with a beautiful gold border, in net work and shells.
3. A sliver lama dress, richly embroidered on net, with superb border, over a white sating slip; body and sleeves elegantly trimmed with a rich silver blond lave; the manteau in suit, composed of a rich silver tissue, lined with white satin, and trimmed round with a beautiful silver lama border, fastened in front with diamonds.
4. A very superb blue and white figured silver tissue dress, trimmed with a full elegant trimming of lama on net, tastefully interspersed with silver, orange blossom, and cornflowers; the body and sleeves elegantly trimmed with lama and silver blond lace.
5. An embroidered gold muslin dress, with an elegant Indian gold border, and above the border two flounces of most beautiful Mechlin lace; the body and sleeves elegantly trimmed with Mechlin lace. This dress had a particularly beautiful effect.
6. A very superb Brussels point lace dress, elegantly trimmed with point lace, over a slip of rich white satin. This dress cost 800 guineas.
7. A rich white satin dress, elegantly trimmed with blond lace, with a beautiful satin and net trimming above the blond. The body and sleeves very full and handsome, with blond lace.
8. An elegant sprig hook muslin dress, trimmed with rich Mechlin lace, over a white satin slip.
9. A rich figured satin dress, elegantly trimmed with blond lace.
10. A travelling dress of rich white reps silk, elegantly trimmed with flounces at the bottom, of superb Brussels point, with ruff and cuffs to correspond.
11. A rich white satin wedding pelisse, trimmed with most beautiful ermine, for the occasion.
12. An elegant white satin hat, tastefully trimmed with blond lace, and a beautiful plume of ostrich feathers.
Several other dresses, equally rich and beautiful in effect, but too numerous to be described, complete this part of the royal marriage suits.
Princess Sophia of Gloucester.--- An elegant robe of gold tissue, superbly ornamented with silver lama. her Royal Highness wore a profusion of diamonds and feathers.
The following were among the other numerous splendid dresses for the occasion, particularly admired:
Marchioness of Winchester.--- Silver stitched lama petticoat, over white satin, with two superb flounces of lama, headed tastefully with net and silver; robe of pink satin, trimmed with a fulling of white satin, and embroidered with silver of a very beautiful pattern; sash to match, studded with silver, and confined in front with a diamond clasp. Head-dress, feathers and diamonds; necklace, diamonds. This dress had a most brilliant and splendid effect.
The Marchioness of Cholmondeley’s dress was very conspicuous for its singular elegance. --- A superb silver lama dress, with a border beautifully wrought with silver lilies; a train of blue satin lined with white, and an elegant Vandyke lamé border on net, to correspond with the petticoat. The whole had a most dazzling and brilliant effect, with the addition of a beautiful plume of ostrich feathers, mounted with elegance and taste.
Dowager Countess of Pembroke.--- A robe of purple and gold superbly embroidered with gold; petticoat, gold gauze, richly ornamented with gold blond and tassels. Head-dress, gold net turban. her ladyship wore, as usual, a profusion of diamonds.
Lady Mary Poulett.--- Silver lama petticoat, over white satin, with a beautiful French garniture at the bottom, intermixed with silver tissue and leaves of white satin, edged with silver, which had a very beautiful effect; robe of pink satin, handsomely ornamented with blond and silver lace; sash to match, trimmed with silver. Head-dress, feathers.
Lady Emily Murray.--- A richly embroidered white crape dress, in silver lama, with superb border tastefully designed; body and sleeves profusely trimmed with silver and blond lace; train of pink satin, elegantly adorned with a rich silver border, and fastened in front with diamonds.
Lady Elisabeth Montague.--- A dress of gold lama, with rich border of the same elegantly trimmed, body and sleeves full trimmed with gold and blond lace; train of blue satin, with a beautiful gold trimming, and fastened in front with diamonds.
The Hon. Mrs. Courtney Boyle.--- A white satin dress, superbly embroidered with bold lama, and robe of rose satin, edged with rich gold fringe, en suite, with blond lace: head-dress, feathers and diamonds.
Mrs. Campbell.---An embroidered gold lama dress, tastefully trimmed with rich lama border; body and sleeves ornamented with a rich gold trimming; train of blue satin trimmed with gold, and fastened in front with diamonds.
Mrs. Adam.--- An elegant white net dress, embroidered with silver lama; a mantle of blue Virginia, embroidered with lama.
GENTLEMAN’S DRESSES.
The Prince Regent.--- A scarlet Field-Marshal’s uniform coat, embroidered with gold; rich gold pearl aguilette, with stars of the orders of the Garter, Bath, Gwelphs, Russia, Austria, Prussia, France, Spain, Denmark, &c. &c. &c; white kerseymere waistcoat and breeches.
His Royal Highness the Duke of York.--- Field Marshal’s uniform.
His Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence.--- Admiral’s uniform.
Prince Leopold of Saxe Coburg.--- A British General’s embroidered uniform coat, white kerseymere waistcoat and breeches.
Marquis of Hertford.--- A brown cloth coat, embroidered with gold, white silk waistcoat ditto, and brown cloth breeches.
Edward Disbrowe, Esq.--- (Vie Chamberlain to the Queen). A suit nearly the same as the Marquis of Hertford.
Lord Viscount Lake.--- A rich embroidered General’s uniform.
Lord George Beresford.--- Ditto.
------- Chester Esq.--- A handsome velvet coat, lined with primrose silk, and rich paste buttons.
Rt. Hon. Charles Arbuthnot.--- A velvet suit with paste buttons.
Marquis of Cholmondeley.--- A rich silk embroidered dress suit.
The Honourable Charles Percy.--- A rich silk embroidered dress suit.
Most of the Gentlemen wore the Windsor uniform, or regimentals.
Fashion for 1811
January 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. EVENING dress. ---Black velvet, trimmed with velvet and gold cord twisted together. Head-dress, an irregularly sided band, trimmed in the same manner, and ornamented with stars. White gloves; and white of black shoes.
2. Morning dress. ---Pelisse of grey spotted velvet, trimmed with velvet ribbon. Sash of the same fringed with black at the ends. Bonnet of the same velvet, trimmed in the same manner as the pelisse. Feather, grey, with black edges.
February 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. EVENING dress. ---Shirt, of apple-blossom silk, buttoned down the front, and trimmed round the bottom; sleeves and bosom with lace. Headdress of the same materials. White gloves and shoes, with an Indian shawl either colored or white.
2. Morning dress. --- Shirt of muslin, high to the neck, and a robe front, forming part of the dress, fastened at the waist --- worked at all the edges and round the bottom. Bonnet of satin, with a feather.
March 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. EVENING dress of lace (joined) over a colored silk slip. --- Headdress of satin, made full behind, and hanging rather to one side, adorned in front with regent feathers.
2. Morning dress. --- A pelisse of plain or figured silk, of a grave color, trimmed with feather-fur; that is, an imitation of fur, composed of feathers, which are died of various colors. --- A bonnet the same as the pelisse.
April 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1 EVENING dress, actually worn at the Duchess of Gordon’s ball. --- A slip of yellow satin under a black lace dress. Turban hat of yellow crape and satin, with two brown feathers.
2. Morning dress. --- A pelisse of pale yellow silk, spotted with purple, and trimmed with ribbon of purple, with a yellow edge. Bonnet of the same materials as the pelisse.
May 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING FULL DRESS.
1. EVENING dress of colored muslin, or silk trimmed with ribbon, cap of white satin trimmed with lace and pearl beads: two feathers, with colored edges to correspond with the dress, form an arch over the head.
2. Walking dress. --- A pelisse of yellow and white,
or green and white shot silk or spotted and shot. Bonnet of the same materials.
June 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. A short cloak richly trimmed with lace, and lace let in a little way from the edge: --- it may be of any very fine worked muslin, and to reach a short way below the elbows. Bonnet of white satin; trimming at the edge of the same in the form of shells, and terminated by narrow lace.
2. Evening dress. --- This is made of the finest India muslin: the body, which forms the appearance of a jacket, is composed of squares, alternately of the same muslin finely plaited, and lace and work joined in stripes; the edge above and below trimmed with lace; the sleeves of the same. --- Cap of white satin with the Prince Regent’s plume.
July 1811
LONDON WALKING and EVENING DRESSES
1. Walking dress. --- A Pelisse of primrose-colored silk, trimmed with black lace round the bottom and also round the shoulders, so as to represent a deep cape. The collar, which turns over, and the cuffs, are likewise ornamented with lace of a narrower sort, and fastened at both edges so as to form a band. Bonnet of the same silk, with either a black or white feather.
2. Evening dress. --- Of white crape, ornamented alternately with stripes of silver ribbon, and spangles. The headdress in any fancy manner, with a plume of three feathers. --- This, and silver and gold ornaments have universally been worn since the Regent’s féte.
August 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- A gown with long sleeves of muslin, over which is a pelisse of satin of silk, without sleeves, so as to have the effect of a robe, richly trimmed with lace. A bonnet composed of the same materials as the pelisse and lace joined together with a flower.
2. Evening dress. --- Of muslin over a slip of colored silk. A small kerchief of lace hangs loosely over the shoulders, without any fastening. A cap of lace, ornamented with an artificial flower of any fancy suited to the month.
September 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- A gown of muslin worked in any fancy manner; a bonnet of pale blue satin; and an Indian shawl.
2. Evening dress. --- Of pale pink satin richly trimmed with white lace; a kerchief or tippet of lace to hang loosely on the shoulders; hat of the same satin, with three feathers to match in color; the edge Vandyked with lace.
October 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- A Pelisse of blue sarsenet trimmed with broad velvet of the same color. A hat of white satin turned up on side; a flower in the front.
2. Evening or Ball dress. --- Of yellow sarsnet trimmed with satin of the same color: a turban cap of satin covered with crape, all of the same color, ornamented with a flower; a shawl agreeable to fancy.
November 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning walking dress. --- A pelisse of plain silk trimmed with fur. Bonnet of white satin trimmed with plaid.
2. Evening dress. --- Of gold colored satin or velvet trimmed with swansdown. A cap of lace with ribbon of same color as the dress; white gloves and shoes.
December 1811
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning walking dress. --- A Cambrick Muslin worked,
a mantle of grey cloth lined with pale pink silk, and trimmed with sable.
Hat of silk, same color trimmed with sable.
2. Evening dress. --- Of muslin richly worked and trimmed with lace. A cap of purple silk trimmed with velvet of the same color, and a gold band.
Fashion for 1812
January 1812
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- Pelisse of maroon silk, lined throughout with fur, which, when buttoned, forms a sort of lappel: --- standing collar, to turn over; and very deep cuffs. --- A hat of same silk, trimmed with ribbon and feathers.
2. Evening dress. --- Of green satin, with epaulettes of lace --- Cap of the same, trimmed with lace and a flower.
February 1812
LONDON WALKING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Walking dress. --- A pelisse of green sarsnet, trimmed with velvet of the same color, made in the manner of a round dress; buttons with tassels of silk. --- Hat of white satin, trimmed with green velvet, and feather of the same color.
2. Evening dress. --- Of muslin ornamented with two rows of lace round the bottom, and trimmed with frills of muslin, plaited over a slip of salmon-colored velvet. Hat and feather of the same color.
March 1812
LONDON FASHIONABLE DRESSES.
1. Walking dress. --- A spencer of blue silk, with facings, collar, wings, and cuffs of plush to match. --- A bonnet composed of silk and velvet, to agree in color with the spencer. --- Feather the same.
2. Evening dress. --- Of pink silk, either flowered or plain, trimmed with crape of the same color, and ornamented with small white buttons. --- Cap of velvet and lace, trimmed with footing and a flower.
April 1812
LONDON MORNING and CHILD’S DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- Of muslin, decorated on the bosom with lace let in. --- A Spencer of buff satin, embroidered with same color. --- A hat of the same materials, and two white feathers.
2. Child’s dress. --- A short frock and trowsers, with the Regent hat of grey silk.
May 1812
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- Of muslin, trimmed with lace --- long sleeves of clear muslin --- and a shift of the same, trimmed with lace. --- Bonnet of net and silk.
2. Evening dress. --- Of white silk, trimmed with colored silk. --- Cap of the same color, bound round with a wreath of white flowers.
June 1812
LONDON MORNING DRESS.
1. Walking dress. --- A mantle of any fancy silk, trimmed with nobbed fringe of white silk. --- bonnet to agree with the mantle, having a cap stitched to it.
July 1812
LONDON FASHIONABLE WALKING DRESSES.
1. A gypsy hat, composed of white chip and heliotrope ribbon --- white ostrich plume drooping on the left side. --- A clear muslin dress trimmed with the same in festoons fastened up with straps and buttons. --- A scarf shawl of double-twilled heliotrope-color silk, with a deep ball silk fringe. --- Shoes to match
2. A chip and satin Parisian bonnet, with high-crown, and plume of green feathers from the top, shading one side of the headdress --- Spotted muslin dress, with three frills round the bottom, and two rows of lace let in --- the edges of the two upper frills exactly at the head of the lace. A military Spencer of green twilled sarsnet, with rich gimp and frogs, to clasp across the bosom on one side, and button over to the other.
The prevailing colors are green, red-lilac or heliotrope, buff, pink, and blue --- all of the very palest shades. In the morning, Spencers of the above colors in figured sarsenets over white cambric dresses, made with high collars and very short skirts, trimmed with two or three frills, or vandyked trimmings. --- Some ladies, wear the dress of muslin or linen, of the same shade as the Spencer, and trimmed with three rows of narrow ribbon. --- Half boots to lace behind. --- Round-hats with flat crowns are still worn: A flower under the brim is a prevailing ornament, with ribbon simply tied round the crown.
August 1812
LONDON FASHIONABLE MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning dress. --- Of fine cambric muslin --- the top part, as represented in the figure, to be made of very clear worked muslin, and formed with worked trimming, to be quite square, so that one part seems separate from the other, and at the same time appears to relieve that amazing length in the body, which our élégantes have so long complained of since the waist has been worn long. --- At present they are more moderate, and must be allowed to be much more becoming. A hat of blossom color, embossed with silk, with a drooping ostrich feather, and to be worn quite off the face, for the hair to be exposed, which is now generally dressed with rows of small curls very full, so that the forehead can only be seen sufficiently to give a little relief with the mixture. --- Grey gloves and boots.
2. Evening dress. --- Of rich pink figured silk, ornamented with crape trimming and silk buttons, forming a drapery from the bottom of the waist to the opposite side, and continued round the bottom. --- Full short sleeves --- White kid gloves and shoes. --- Headdress, the Ponsonby cap of pink crape, to correspond with a bunch of small roses.
September 1812
LONDON FASHIONABLE FULL DRESS.
1. A demi-vest of sarsenet, the color of ripe corn, irradiated, from the centre of the waist, with rays of star-points, connected with small broaches of pearl, or silver studs --- trimmed round the bottom with broad rich lace. --- The under dress is of white lutstring, and the mantle or shawl of purple crape, spotted with large silver spangles, or stars --- These detached draperies are much admired, as contributing greatly to elegance of form, and furnishing the occasion of graceful positions for the arms --- The necklace is of pearls, and double, with intermediate medallions. --- The hair is dressed in irregular curls round the face, with a coronet à la Junon, of plate gold, burnished, and set with silver stars. The back of the hair, except two or three small ringlets, is drawn up into a gold net. --- The shoes and gloves of white kid --- and the bracelets to match the necklace.
October 1812
LONDON FASHIONABLE WALKING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning or Walking Dress. --- A plain or corded muslin dress, made high in the neck, and flounced --- the flounce set on rather full. --- The waist not quite so long as of late. --- Three-quarter pelisse, of pale yellow twilled sarsnet, edged with a rich fancy trimming of the same color, and fastened round the waist with a band and gold buckle. --- A fancy hat, of the same stuff as the pelisse, with a gold or rich silk tassel suspended from the back of the hat --- a handsome feather to correspond, drooping over the front, and rather inclining toward the side. --- A white parasol. --- Boots and gloves of the same color as the pelisse.
2. Evening Dress. --- A Grecian headdress, with several rows of large pearls continued round the hair. --- Necklace, ear rings, and bracelets, of pearls somewhat smaller than those on the head --- A white satin or sarsnet body, made very low in the neck and richly trimmed with silver trimming or white lace. ---and a short double sleeve of white satin or sarsnet, fastened on the shoulder with a rich silk fancy button, and trimmed --- the under sleeve made close to the arm, and of pink sarsnet. --- A band of the same trimming , worn round the waist, and fastened in front with a rich stone or pearl ornament. --- Train and apron of pale pink sarsnet, with a trimming of silver or white lace to correspond with the body --- A pale blue scarf --- white kid gloves --- white satin slippers, with pearl ornaments on a plaiting of ribbon --- and a white fan, edged with silver.
November 1812
LONDON FASHIONS.
1. Morning dress. --- A robe of light-brown spotted muslin, or China crape, with long sleeves, very full and tied at the waist.: --- the bosom high , and trimmed with lace --- made like the plain frock. --- a sash of figured ribbon, to correspond. --- the bottom of the robe trimmed with figured ribbon, of let-in needle-work. --- A mantle of crimson velvet, formed loosely round the neck --- fastened on the shoulder with a Spanish button --- falling in front to a point ending with a tassel. --- a broad trimming of swansdown fur. --- lining of white sarsnet. --- The hat of the same: the edge bound with swansdown. --- an ostrich feather falling negligently on one side. --- Ankle boots of the color of the mantle, laced behind. --- Gloves of yellow or gray kid. --- Hair divided in the middle --- brought low at the sides in small curls --- with a comb set with colored gems.
2. Evening Dress.--- a boddice, formed close to the bosom --- of orange, green, or light-brown, figured satin, with full long sleeves, or short bishops, with the Spanish slash --- trimmed with thin swansdown round the bosom and sleeves --- a sash of broad figured ribbon, to correspond. --- A white crape or thin muslin petticoat, trimmed at bottom with lace. --- On the bosom, a tucker of white net, bordered with scalloped lace --- over which, a necklace of pearls.
The hair in the Grecian taste --- the front parted --- falling in small curls, with a small comb on one side, set with colored gems, to imitate flowers. --- Small turban caps of colored crape, plaited on the top, with a lacing of pearls and flowers in the front. --- Ear-rings of pearl of garnet --- Necklace of pearls, or triple chain of gold. --- Broach of colored gems. --- Slippers of crimson or blue velvet or satin. --- Gloves of white kid.
Fans of carved ivory, ornamented with silvered crape.
December 1812
LONDON MORNING and EVENING DRESS.
1. Morning Walking Dress. --- An olive or deep fawn color cloth pelisse, made high round the neck, bound with Angola trimming fur at the sleeves and feet, with a broad band going up the middle, and passing round the collar. A full lace ruff round the neck --- a round robe of white cambric muslin. A traveller’s hat of the color of the pelisse, with an ostrich feather on one side --- hair divided in full curls, tippet and muff of silver bear. Ankle boots. Gloves of lemon colored buff or kid.
2. Evening Dress.--- A robe of fawn, lemon, or pale puce-colored Georgian cloth, made high in the front, with full sleeves, bound round the bosom, sleeves and feet, with Angola trimming fur; the waist ornamented with waved stripes of the same fur; the bracer of silver ribbon; the sleeves ornamented with a serpentine row of pearls, falling from the back of the shoulder to the front of the arm. A cap of the same cloth, composed of a small crown, and sides with let-in thread lace in the middle, bound round the front and across the top with a string of beads. The hair, a short crop, loosely hanging in full curls on both sides. Slippers of white satin with silver rosettes. Gloves of white kid. Fan of silvered crape or ivory. Necklace of pearls; earrings to correspond. A long occasional silk scarf of deep puce or crimson. Evening dresses are generally full robes of Georgian cloth, or with the bodice of satin: --- the crape petticoat with colored satin bodice is much worn. The head-dresses are small caps of crape or thread lace, or cloth the color of the dress, ornamented on the top and sides with a row of beads; in front with a small wreath of flowers or silver frost. --- The carriage costume is the cambric muslin robe, made high, with stomacher front. The Spanish and Russian mantles --- the pelisse of fawn, olive, or scarlet cloth --- are the principal dresses in request. The helmet cap and traveller’s hat are the general appendages to this order.
General Observations for December. --- Walking dresses, the satin spencers of grey, brown, or orange, trimmed with buttons à la militaire --- made high in the neck --- with Spanish cape, and full sleeves.
The satin pelisse of light blue, grey, or orange, falling loose round the neck, trimmed with swansdown --- fastened with small clasps ---- a belt of figured ribbon of the same color.
The velvet pelisse, of crimson or purple, trimmed with vandyked swansdown round the neck, and down the middle --- with a band round the waist, of velvet the same, and a gold clasp, ornamented with Grecian split honeysuckle.
The Spanish velvet cloak, and mantles of carious shapes, bound with figured ribbon of the same color, or swansdown fur. The hat and bonnets. --- The imperial cap of velvet -- the color the same as the mantle or pelisse --- bound with swansdown --- an ostrich feather on one side --- the cap of spotted, grey, or brown fur, ornamented with a silver bandeau.--- Bonnets of colored velvet, plaited over the crown and front --- the helmet shape, to tie with figured ribbon of the same color. --- Ankle boots of colored velvet or kid to lace behind. --- Gloves of buff or grey.
Fashion for 1814
February 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking Dress. --- A plain cambric robe, with long sleeves --- stomacher front, made high on the neck, trimmed at bottom with a frill plaiting of muslin --- over which, a robe pelisse of fine Merino cloth --- color warm brown --- with lappel front, ornamented down the same with silk frog buttons; lined throughout with white sarsnet; trimmed down the front, feet, and wrists, with silk cord, to represent the flower of the shamrock. --- A small provincial bonnet, of the same material as the pelisse, ornamented with a cluster of flowers in front. --- Tippet of marten fur, made close round the neck--- muff of the same. --- Gloves of light grey kid. --- Half boots, of the color of the pelisse. --- Necklace of black beads, to which is suspended a cross of the same. Ear-rings of pearl, with diamond studs.
2. Evening Dress. --- A robe of pink crape, over a white sarsnet slip. Bodice of the same, with stomacher of white satin, ornamented with trimming of silver cord and ribbon, made rather high on the bosom; with short sleeves, made full at the feet, of a becoming walking length, trimmed at the feet, bosom, and sleeves, with silver ribbon --- with bracer of the same, confined in front with a clasp of pearl. --- Head-dress à la Grecque, turned up behind --- in full curls in front --- an occasional stray ringlet on one side, with a small cluster of flowers in front. --- Necklace, a triple row of elastic gold chain. --- Ear-rings of diamonds. --- Gloves of white kid. --- Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.
March 1814
MORNING, CARRIAGE and EVENING DRESS
1. Morning Walking-Dress. --- A white muslin high dress, made close round the neck, with stomacher front --- of a moderate walking length-- ornamented at the feet and wrists with a trimming of needlework; over which a tunic pelisse of fine merino cloth; the sleeves made very full at the setting on the shoulders, with a broad falling collar --- the front of the bosom habit fashion, the skirt set on full, the sides falling off plain---ornamented on the bosom and front with broad silk twist --- trimmed at the wrists, collar, and feet with swansdown fur. --- Hat composed of satin and straw---the crown of satin, to correspond in color with the pelisse---the front of open straw, of the flat cottage shape---to tie on one side with white satin ribbon---a wreath of lowers on one side.---Under the bonnet a small lace cap, the border shown in front.---Hair à la Grecque to fall on the temples, and loose on the back of the head and neck. --- Ear-rings of pearl. --- Necklace, an elastic gold chain falling loosely over the pelisse, to which is suspended a small cross of amber.---Gloves of dove-colored kid.---Half-boots of the same color and stuff as the pelisse.
2. Carriage Costume. --- White muslin robe, made with stomacher front---frill ruff---over which a robe pelisse of fine Merino cloth, with wrapper front, and full long sleeves, of light blue, orange, or dove color, trimmed with swansdown fur at the wrists, feet, and front. --- Cap of the same material, trimmed round with swansdown; or cap of seal fur, made close to the head. --- Hair in full curls in front, to fall loose on the back of the neck in small curls. --- Ear-rings of pearl. --- Necklace and bracelets en suite. --- Half-boots of cloth, of the same color as the dress.---An occasional wrapper shawl of colored silk.
3. Evening Dress. --- A robe of pale blue crape, worn over a slip of white satin---full long sleeves of the same---bodice of pink satin, made moderately low on the bosom, with a full trimming of lace on the top--the sleeves at the shoulders and wrists ornamented with vandykes of lace---the skirt of the robe made full and long. --- A bracer of white satin ribbon to tie in front. --- Hair à la Grecque, to turn up behind, with a small sprig of flowers at top. ---Ear-rings of diamond studs. --- Necklace of pearl, with an ornament of diamonds to meet in front. --- Fan of carved ivory.--- Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes. --- An occasional scarf. --- Shawl of crimson silk.
General Observations.---Morning Half-Dresses are cloth robes of blue, fawn, or olive color, made close round the neck, with frill ruffs, long sleeves rather full; the robe made close in the skirt.---Cap of the same material, made close, with a small wreath of lowers on the front.---Hair in loose ringlets, falling on the temples.---Necklace of black beads.---Gloves of lemon-colored kid.---Shoes of black kid.---An occasional tippet of swansdown.
Morning Promenade Dresses are generally pelisses, of a short walking length; or the short tunic---the colors, light brown, blue, or grey---trimmed with swansdown or seal fur---the tunic pelisse, trimmed at bottom with broad plaitings of lace.---White muslin robes are generally worn under this order of costume, with flounces of the same at the feet, with high stomacher fronts---Mantles continue to be much worn, in form and color as fancy may direct: --- they are generally with trimming of swansdown, made shorter than they have been, and plain at the neck. --- Hats or caps of the same material made close, trimmed with fur, and ornamented with flowers on one side---Bonnets of straw, with cottage front, made flat on the top, are of the newest order---under which are small lace caps, to show in front.--- Hair à la Grecque, full in front. --- Half-boots of cloth, to correspond with the dress. --- Gloves of dove or lemon-colored kid.
April 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking-Dress.---A morning walking robe of white cambric muslin, made high at the neck, with plaited collar to turn over, with vandykes of lace: long sleeves made full.---Mantle of fine Merino cloth---color bright lilac---bound with ribbon of the same.---Cap à la Russe, of the same materials and color as the mantle, with an ostrich feather on one side---Half boots of cloth; color to correspond with the dress.---Gloves of York tan.---Hair in full curls on the sides---to turn up on the back.
2. Evening Dress.---A round robe of mull muslin or crape, over white sarsnet: the front of the bosom made rather low, the back broad, the skirt full: bracer of figured ribbon: neck kerchief of lace to be close round the throat; full long sleeves; the bosom, feet, and wrists ornamented with rich brocade ribbon.---Necklace, cross, and ear-rings, of peals and gold.---Head-dress---The hair in waved curls in front, flat on the sides, and confined in full curls on the back of the head; entwined with a wreath of flowers.---Gloves of pale primrose.---Slippers of white satin.---An occasional mantle of dove or lilac fine cloth.
General Observations.--- Morning Walking-Dresses are generally of white muslin, over which are worn cloaks of mantles of various fancy forms; the color lilac---Pelisses are generally put aside; the spencer for the carriage costume is in general request, of silk or satin, made with full sleeves and stand-up collar, to wrap over in front, to button on one side, with bracer of ribbon; the color to correspond.---Silk scarfs, or roan or salmon color, are the general appendages to this order.---The cottage slouched bonnet, or cap à la Russe, of corresponding materials (the bonnet edged with scalloped lace, confined under the chin with ribbon, tied on one side, ornamented with a small cluster of spring flowers) is generally worn as the carriage-dress.---The hair à la Grecque falling loosely and full on the temples, the forehead high---to turn up behind, and confined in a small cluster of ringlets.---Necklace of pearl---Ear-rings to correspond.---Shoes of half boots to correspond in color with the spencer or cloak.---Gloves of York tan, or primrose kid.
Half-dress.---Round robes of lilac or dove-colored sarsnet, or muslin spotted with pale primrose, made long and full; long sleeves with frock bosom; a worked lace neck kerchief, made small.---Caps of lace and white satin, ornamented with a small sprig of spring lowers.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Hair in full curls in front, turned up behind.---Scarf cloak of colored kerseymere, with a broad border of silk ornament. Shoes of black or colored kid. Gloves of primrose or stone-colored kid.
Evening Dresses of primrose of light lilac carpe, worn over slips of white satin made low on the bosom short full sleeves; the back and shoulders low; the skirt and feet rather short; the skirt more scanty than of late:---ornamented round the bosom, feet, and down the front, with a trimming composed of crape and small pearls, in the form of small flowers; the sleeves are fancifully ornamented with pearls, to correspond with the trimming; the round low dress composed of needlework on fine India muslin, with trimming of lace laid on full; over which a white crape jacket, to fall off the bosom and shoulder, is in general request, as an Opera dress; with an occasional silk scarf.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds---Bracelets en suite---An occasional robe pelisse of lilac satin lined with white sarsnet, with wrapper in front, to fasten with small clasps on one side, is likewise worn as an appendage to the Opera dress.---The hair is disposed in loose ringlets on the temples; the forehead high, with a cluster of small ringlets at the back of the head, braided with a wreath of spring flowers; a small diamond comb, on one side in front.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.---Gloves of white kit.---Fan of carved ivory or frosted crape, ornamented with silver spangles.
May 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking Dress.--- A round robe of white muslin, made high in the neck, with vandyked collar: long sleeves: the skirt rather long: the bottom ornamented with needle-worked roses, and at the bosom, over which a spencer of Pomona-green satin, with collar to turn back, lined with white satin:---bracer of white satin ribbon.---An occasional square scarf of white lace.---Hat of the same material as the spencer, turned up with white satin: a sprig of flowers on one side.---Gloves of York tan.---Hair in full curls on the temples, turned up behind.---Shoes of the color of the spencer.
2. Evening Dress.---A robe dress of orange crape over a slip of white satin, made low on the bosom and back, ornamented with lace: trimming of small roses and lillies round the shoulder and bosom, down the front, and at the feet.---The hair in full curls in front, and at the sides---turned up behind à la Grecque--- Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds---Bracelets en suite.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes in front.
General Observations.---Morning Walking Dresses are of white muslin, made high, with stomacher fronts; long sleeves; the skirt, full, of a moderate walking length, with trimming of needle-work, in the form of wreaths of roses and lillies.---Pelisses of pink, Pomona green, or salmon-colored satin, made short as the tunic; with single front, trimmed with lace.---The cottage bonnet, or Pomona hat, of the same material with the dress, is generally worn.---A small cluster of flowers generally decorates the hair on one side; the hair in full curls on the sides, with a small lace cap.---Necklace and cross of pearl, or satin beads of pale blue or pink.---Ear-rings and bracelets to correspond.---Parasol of green, or of the color of the dress, with broad white fringe border.---Gloves of olive, or lemon-colored kid.---Shoes of black kid.
Half Dresses.---Round robes of dove-colored, grey, or primrose-colored muslin, with small sprigs or spots of the same, made with frock bosom, or stomacher front: full long sleeves: the robe of a moderate walking length.---Cap of lace, with a small wreath of white roses on one side --- Hair is full curls on the sides---to turn up behind.---Ear-rings and necklace of pearl.---Gloves of lilac kid.---Shoes to correspond in color with the dress.---An occasional silk scarf, with a broad border of flowers.
Carriage Costume.---A robe of white muslin, made rather long and full; over which a spencer of pink, salmon, or Pomona green satin, ornamented round the neck, and down the front of the bosom, with lace trimming, in the form of small roses.---Hat or bonnet of the same material, with trimming to correspond.---A scarf veil of white lace is an elegant accompaniment to this order.---Hair à la Grecque, in full curls on the sides.---Ear-rings and necklace of pearl.---Gloves of black kid.
Evening Dresses are of pale primroses, light lilac, or pink crape, worn over slips of white satin, made full in the skirt, of a moderate walking length; the sleeves full at the shoulder: the skirt full at the back; ornamented with trimming of lace at the feet, bosom, and down the front, in the form of small roses.---The hair in full curls in front and on the sides, turned up behind à la Grecque.--- A small cluster of white roses on one side.---Ear-rings and necklace of diamonds.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with roses of silver in front.---Fan of carved ivory or frosted crape.
June 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking-Dress.---A high dress of plain French muslin, of a short walking length, with frill collar of lace, trimmed at the feet with lace in the form of small roses:---long sleeves, made rather full, with trimming of lace at the wrists.---A light pink handkerchief tied loosely in front with satin ribbon, over which the mantle of à l’Angoulême, of light green satin, trimmed with broad lace; made narrow, with a fleur-de-lis at each end, worked on the satin.---The Blucher hat, turned up in front; the crown made like the Regent cap; composed of green and white satin, ornamented with a plume of ostrich feathers.---The hair in full curls over the face, to fall low behind.---Necklace of gold chain.---Ear-rings of pearl.---Gloves of lemon-colored kid.---Shoes to correspond with the dress.---Parasol of green silk.
2. Evening Dress.---A white satin robe, over which a robe train of fine white muslin, figured with fleurs-de-lis at about six inches apart; trimmed at the bottom of the dress with broad lace:---long full sleeves; the wrists ornamented, to correspond:---the bodice of white satin, made low: the back plain; trimmed round the bosom with embroidery of worked fleurs-de-lis; the shoulder-strap plaited with lace, and made narrow;---bracer of white satin, to clasp in front with a pearl clasp.---Head-dress---the hair à la Grecque , in full curls over the face and sides, to fall in loose curls on the back of the neck; the hair separated in front on the forehead with a pearl or diamond ornament of the fleur-de-lis.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Bracelets are en suite.---An occasional silk shawl, embroidered at the ends.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.---Fan of carved Ivory, or silvered crape.
General observations.---Morning Walking-Dresses are robes of a short walking length, of white muslin, with long sleeves made full; embroidered round the feet with lace; high collars, with a frill of lace.---The scarf mantle or spencer is the general appendage to this order of costumé, of sea-green or lilac-colored silk.---Pelisses are not generally worn for walking-dresses, being more confined to the carriage costumé.---Bonnets and hats are a variety of forms, as fancy directs. The most novel is the Blucher hat, as already described.---The cottage bonnet continues in general request, trimmed with clusters of flowers, as the lily and white rose.---Hats are generally ornamented with feathers; the materials of hats and bonnets to correspond with the dress.---The hair is much fuller on the face, and very low behind, in small ringlets; a lilly or small wreath of flowers on one side.---Shoes of black kid.---Gloves of French kid.---Parasol of sea-green, or color to correspond with the dress.
Opera Dress.---A white sarsnet robe, over which a full train of gauze muslin figured with fleurs-de-lis; made with full loose long sleeves; the bosom more round at the shoulders; the back low and close; the shoulder-strap narrow. The bodice is generally of white satin; the flounce let in between a narrow trimming of needle work; the bosom embroidered with fleurs-de-lis.---Dresses of spotted white muslin are in general request for evening dresses.---Bracers, to clasp with diamond or pearl, are generally worn.---Tippets of lace, in full plaits or scallops, are a general appendage.---India silk shawls, with broad embroidered ends, are much worn in this order of costumé.---The hair loosely turned up behind, and to fall low on the back of the neck in full curls:---a small diamond ornament to part the hair on the forehead.---Necklace of diamonds.---Bracelets to correspond.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.---Fan of carved ivory, or silver frosted crape.
Parisian FASHIONS. Extract of a Letter from an English Lady in Paris, to her friend in London.
IT is the fashion here to wear every thing à la Chinoise; the hair is dressed à la Chinoise; the gowns are made à la Chinoise; and, in truth, they greatly resemble those we see worn by the figures on China cups and saucers. The backs of these morning gowns are extremely full and wide, and the waists as short as they can possibly be made; which is shorter, I think, than ever they were made in England; the sleeves very full, and confined at the wrist with a band and button. The ladies here cover themselves much more than in England: their gowns are much fuller; and they are never seen in the open air without being wrapped in a large shawl, let the weather be never so warm. Some years ago, they wore such thin clothing, that many Parisian élégantes lost their lives in consequence. They have now, it seems, run into the other extreme; for the youngest are now as warmly-clothed, when they are not in full dress, as their grandmothers. These shawls, which are so universal, are India, and an imitation (of their own manufacture), which is certainly the best I have seen---I think better than ours, as they are of worsted, and the colors and workmanship are extremely good. They are square, with a deep border on one side, and a very narrow one round the other three: they are worn folded across, like a half square, with the broad border on one side, and the narrow on the other: they are on this account called schâl boiteux. The price of these shawls is one hundred francs (Four pounds, three shillings, and four pence, sterling), upwards. Black veils, which are so much worn in England, are not seen here: white net veils are pretty general; they are tied round the bonnet, as formerly. The most prevalent ornaments in jewellery are cut coral necklaces and crosses: I greatly prefer the plain, as I think the cutting gives them the appearance of glass beads.---Small watches are universally worn round the neck, suspended by a Maltese chain. Some are gold; but the greater part are enamel, ornamented with pearls: the price of these is from five to seven or eight Louis. Luxury is at such a pitch here, that even chambermaids have their jewellery, and wear rings and watches, like their mistresses. A profusion of needlework is worn at present, and but little lace. Petticoats are trimmed with flounces of scalloped needle-work; and also the gown, which rises about three or four inches above the petticoat. The ruffs are composed of four frills of worked muslin or leno, scalloped at the edge; the deepest frill hangs down on the neck about a quarter of a yard; the other three are progressively narrower. These are extremely becoming and pretty, and (I have no doubt) will be introduced into our country. Rings are much worn. The ladies, in general, have very pretty white hands; and, in truth, they take great care of them. Small brilliants, and rings of various colored stones (the initials of each stone forming the letters of a name) are considered fashionable at present. Silk redingotes are much worn; and even cloth ones I have seen, when the days have been rather cold. So much for the present fashions, which, it is said, will speedily undergo a great change.
In the sequel of her letter, the fair writer, having occasion to notice the appearance of the royal family at the theatre, gives the following description of
The Duchess of Angoulême’s Opera Dress.
White satin petticoat; flounce of gossamer net, edged with satin trimming;
short gossamer net gown, low in the back, and trimmed with several rows of
scalloped lace; pearls twisted through the hair; pearl comb, and one row of
very fine pearls round the head; full sleeves of net, fastened with white
satin ribbon; satin tops, and deep ruffles of lace; bracelets, consisting
of six rows of pearls; white shoes and gloves. The Duchess (she adds) is a
very fine woman, and a great favorite with the people.
July 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking-Dress.---A robe dress of white muslin, with triple flounce, and full long sleeves, and made high on the neck; over which a spencer of salmon colored crape, with full sleeves, with five or six divisions, tied in small bows of white ribbon; the front ornamented with white floss trimming: the collar made to fall back on the shoulders; the breast open: a bracer of white satin ribbon, to tie in front in a full bow.---The Prussian hat with square crown; the front rim rather broad; composed of the same stuff as the spencer, over white satin, with an ostrich feather on one side.---The hair in full curls on the forehead and sides, with a small wreath of white roses in front.---Shoes of colored kid.---Gloves of white or lemon-colored silk.---Parasol to correspond with the dress.---An occasional white French silk scarf, with worked ends.
2. Evening Dress.--- A white satin slip worn under a salmon-colored crape robe dress; the bodice made low; ornamented with white floss silk on a border of lace, with a triple trimming in the form of roses, fleur-de-lis, and laurel, to come half way up to the knee: the dress of a moderate walking length: the sleeves of white crape, made full and long, with five or six divisions, tied at regular distances with white satin ribbon, in the form of small roses: bracer of silver ribbon, with a pearl clasp in front.---Hair in full curls in front and round the head, with a small wreath of roses on one side.---Ear-rings of diamonds.---Necklace of colored brilliants.---Bracelets en suite.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.---Fan of frosted crape.
General observations.---Morning Walking-Dresses are generally white muslin long robes, over which is worn the spencer of colored crape or satin, made with full long sleeves, divided, as before described. Figured muslin is also much worn in morning dresses, with bodice of different color, with the épaulette shoulder-strap to correspond. The feet of morning dresses have deep trimmings of needle-work full halfway to the knee; the bosom generally made plain and high; the sleeves always full.---The Prussian hat, composed of white satin and colored crape, is in much request, with feathers on one side.---The Oldenburg bonnet is rapidly giving way to the lighter and less cumbrous coverings for the head; while the Angoulême bonnet is gaining in the public estimation.---Head-dresses---the hair falling off the forehead in full curls on the temples and back of the head. Flowers are generally worn in the hair.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Gloves of colored kid.---Shoes of black kid.
Half Dresses are of spotted or figured muslin, in small variegated sprigs, made as the round robe dress, rather short, with high neck made plain; the sleeves of white muslin, made full and long, with four or five divisions tied with small bows of white ribbon: the bottom of the dress ornamented with a broad trimming of lace.---Head-dress, a cap composed of thread lace and white satin, with a small cluster of flowers on one side.---The hair in full curls round the face.---Ear-rings and bracelets of pearl.---Shoes of colored kid.---Gloves white, or lemon-colored.
Evening Dresses are generally of colored crape, worn over slips of white satin; bodice of the same, ornamented with a full plaiting of lace round the bosom and shoulders, the bottom of the robe ornamented nearly to the knee with silk floss on plaitings of lace; the sleeves are generally of white crape, made full and long, or short sleeves of colored crape to correspond with the robe, looped up in the centre with a row of large pearls; the shoulder-strap to fall low on the arm; the bosom and back made low.---The hair in full curls in front, and round the head, to turn up in a small know behind, surrounded with a wreath of roses.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Bracelets en suite.---Slippers of white satin.---Gloves of white kid.---Fan of frosted crape, with a small wreath of colored flowers for the border.
August 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking-Dress.---A high round robe dress, with falling collar, of French muslin; long sleeves, made full, drawn in at the wrists and elbows: the bosom drawn across in small plaits; the collar of broad lace, rather full: bracer of white satin ribbon, with pearl clasp; the robe of a moderate walking length, trimmed at the feet with a flounce of vandyked lace, ornamented half-way to the knee with small balls of floss trimming.---The Angoulême bonnet of straw, with high crown and broad front, to tie on one side with satin ribbon.---Hair in full curls over the forehead and temples.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Gloves of French kid.---Shoes of straw-color.
2. Evening Dress.---A robe petticoat of white satin, made close, ornamented at the feet with a border of the same; a wreath of silver laurel intermixed with white roses; full lace draperies ornamented with silver cord: bodice of white satin, made low on the bosom and back, ornamented with a trimming of lace and seed pearl.---Head-Dress---the hair in loose curls in front, falling on the back of the head in ringlet curls; flowers on one side in a small cluster.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Bracelets en suite.---Slippers of white satin.---Gloves of white kid.
General Observations.---Morning Walking-Dresses are generally of white muslin---long robes made high on the neck, with lace collar: long sleeves, made full, to draw at the shoulder, elbow, and wrists; the bosom to be drawn across in small plaits; bracer of white satin ribbon; the shoulders and feet ornamented with small floss balls, half-way up to the knee.---Bonnets are generally the Oldenburg or Angoulême. Small hats, with flat fronts, are much worn, with a small cluster of flowers on one side.---The hair, as last month---in full curls in front and on the temples. Flowers are generally worn in the hair.---Shoes of black or colored kid.
Half-Dresses are generally of figured or spotted muslin in small variegated sprigs, made rather shorter than the morning dress---with close collar round the neck, with epaulette shoulder-strap---long sleeves of white muslin, made full, to draw in several divisions: bracer of white ribbon; the bottom of the dress and bosom ornamented with small balls of floss trimming.---Head-Dress.---cap composed of lace and white satin, made small; the hair in full curls in front, with small ringlets behind.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Shoes of black kid.
Evening-Dresses are of colored crape, worn over white satin slips, or draperies of lace festooned on the side: bodice of white satin, trimmed with lace, and ornamented with pearls. The bottom of the crape dresses is ornamented with a device of silver lama, and silver cords---long crape sleeves, made full, to draw in small divisions, to tie in small bows of white ribbon.---The hair in full loose curls in front and on the sides, with a cluster of flowers on one side, or plume of ostrich feathers, with an ornament of diamonds.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Bracelets en suite.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with rosettes of silver.
September 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking-Dress.---A round robe dress of white figured muslin, with worked bosom, made high on the neck---vandyked collar of lace---long sleeves, made full, and drawn across in five or six divisions---to tie in small bows of light blue ribbon:---the robe trimmed at the feet with a triple row of light blue ribbon: the shoulder-straps and bracer, ribbon of the same color.---Hat composed of straw and white satin; the brim of straw made broad and round, the scalp of white satin, with straw net; a cluster of blue-colored flowers on one side.---An occasional white net scarf.---Gloves of pale lilac.---Shoes to correspond.---Parasol of lilac or green silk.
2. Evening Dress.---A robe of white satin, with bodice of lace net over white satin; made low on the bosom and back; ornamented with seed pearls: short sleeves, composed of lace, festooned to the shoulder strap with pearls: the robe ornamented at the feet with an embroidery of pearl in the shape of laurel-leaves.---The hair, a triple row of flat curls, to go round the head: a small cluster of flowers on one side.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Bracelets en suite.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.---Fan of carved ivory.
General Observations.--- Morning Walking-Dresses are long robes of white muslin, made high on the neck, rather shorter in the waist than last month, and of a moderate walking length.---Spotted muslins are much worn.---The trimmings are generally of blue or green, diversified at pleasure. The bottom of the dress trimmed with colored silk fringe is of the latest novelty, has been an appendage to French dresses, and is likely to become general.---There is nothing new in the hat or bonnet: the Oldenburg bonnet is in general request: the Angoulême bonnet, of straw or colored velvet, made high in the crown, with cluster of flowers on the top, is much worn. hats are diversified at pleasure, corresponding with the dress.---The hair is generally in full curls in front, to turn up behind, or in a triple row of curls round the head. Flowers generally decorate the head.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Shoes of black or colored kid.
Evening Dresses are either of white satin or fine muslin.---Colored crape is much worn, over white satin slips.---The trimmings are of colored embroidery in wreaths of flowers: the bosom and back made low: the robe of a moderate walking length: short sleeves, made full, to festoon to the shoulder-strap.---The hair in small curls round the head, with a small cluster of flowers behind.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Gloves of white kid.---Fan of carved ivory or frosted crape.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.
October 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking-Dress.--- A robe dress of white French muslin, made short with triple flounce, with a set-on of narrow light blue ribbon---the waist rather short---the bodice made full on the breast with wrapper front---and collar to turn over:---the sleeves full, with a divided tuck at the elbow: bracer of light blue satin ribbon.---The Oldenburg bonnet of straw; the front smaller than before; with small blue feather on one side.---The hair in small curls round the head.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---A French scarf of white silk with a broad border of flowers.---Gloves of primrose kid.---Boots of blue jean. 2.
Evening Dress.---A white satin slip under a train of light green gauze, or crape---the bodice of white satin, made low; ornamented with white silk floss trimming, with a border of lace in scolloped vandykes, at the feet, and bosom: the train made rather short---full long sleeves of fine French gauze, divided at the elbow, and made full---bracer of figured white satin ribbon.---The hair a treble row of small curls round the head, with a diamond comb in front.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Bracelets en suite.---Gloves of white kid.---Slippers of white satin, with silver rosettes.---Fan of frosted silver crape.---An occasional French scarf of white silk, with broad border of flowers.
General Observations.--- Morning Walking-Dresses are of white French muslin, figured with flowers, or striped with variegated colors---the bodice and sleeves made full, with rolling collar or tippet;---front trimmed with full frill plaiting of lace---the feet generally trimmed with a treble flounce of lace.---Pelisses of fine French cloth, of fawn or light olive, with plain skirt, rounded in front to fly open---in front the bodice plain, with several broad capes falling on the shoulders.---The Oldenburg bonnet with moderate pokes in front, are most general.---the Spanish hat of colored silk continues in request:---the fur caps are beginning to appear and become general for the forth-coming season.---Handkerchiefs for the neck, of colored French silk, are in great repute.---Gloves of French colored kid.
Half-Dresses are generally of variegated striped muslin, made short in the skirt, trimmed with flounces of lace---the make the same as the walking dress.--- The hair in full curls on the forehead, with a small cap of French lace with a cluster of flowers on one side. Flowers are a general appendage to morning dresses.
Evening Dresses are of white satin, with skirts of colored crape, ornamented with flounces of colored ribbon---short sleeves composed of lace, festooned to the shoulder with pearls---the bodice short, the bosom and shoulders made low---pearls or diamonds generally ornament the bodice.---The hair in small ring curls round the head with a cluster of flowers on one side.---Slippers are much worn of white satin, embroidered with variegated flowers on the front.---Large French shawls with broad worked borders are a general appendage to the evening dress.
November 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES
1. Morning Walking Dress.---A round robe of French muslin, made high on the neck, with long sleeves, the skirt rather short, trimmed at the feet, wrists, and neck, with a triple flounce of lace.---A mantle of light olive-colored kerseymere, trimmed with a broad border of ribbon, of the same colour.---Hat composed of seal fur, with band, and tassel of gold.---The hair in full curls on the front, and sides.---Gloves of French kid.---Boots of olive-colored jean.
2. Morning Half-Dress.---Gowns made high, of colored muslin, Green, olive, and hair brown, are the most prevailing colors, with flounce trimming of lace. French handkerchiefs for the neck of colored silk, are general appendages to this order.---The hair in full small curls in front---a small cap of French lace, with a cluster of flowers on one side---an occasional scarf of French silk, with a broad border of flowers.---Gloves of French kid, to correspond with the color of the dress.---Shoes of black kid.
3. Evening Dress.---A robe of pink silk, bodice of white satin, with short sleeves of French lace, the bodice ornamented round with a festoon of seed pearl; the feet trimmed with a frill plaiting of lace.---Bracer of silver ribbon, with a clasp of colored gems in front.---The hair in small curls round the head, with a cluster of variegated flowers on one side.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Bracelets to correspond.---Gloves of white French kid.---Slippers of white satin with silver rosettes.---Fan of carved ivory, with a festoon of variegated flowers round the border.
General Observations.--- Morning Walking-Dresses are robes of white muslin and occasionally of red, green, or olive muslin; made high on the neck, rather short in the robe, trimmings of lace or colored ribbon, in full flounces round the neck and feet.---Mantles of fine Georgian cloth, olive or fawn, are the most prevailing colors, with trimming of seal fur, or broad border of ribbon of the same color.---Robe pelisses of morone, or bright purple velvet with trimming of swansdown, are the general appendage to the carriage costume.---Hats and bonnets of seal or sable fur, are in general request for the promenade and carriage costume. Tippets and trimmings of chinchilly and every article of the fur kind, are in great repute:---tippets of seal, or chinchilly, are general appendages to the morning half dress.
Evening Dresses are of colored crapes, or French silk, the bodice and robe are more frequently of the same material, and color---the bosom and shoulders low, the waist short, the robe a short walking length, with broad flounce trimmings of French lace. The sleeves are generally composed of festoons of lace, interspersed with seed pearls; the bosom and back ornamented with a festoon of seed pearls---bracer of silver ribbon, with a clasp of colored gems.---The hair in small curls round the head, with a cluster of variegated flowers, on the back or side. Flowers are the general ornament to the head. Dress caps and lace turbands interposed with colored crape, ornamented with studs of brilliants are becoming general, colored brilliants for the neck are taking the precedence of the diamond necklace.---Brilliants are prevailing ornaments in articles of jewellery.---Gloves of white French kid.---Slippers of white satin, with rosettes of colored gems or silver.
December 1814
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking Dress.---A round dress, of grey or stone colored French silk,, figured with small flowers of sprigs of the same, made high on the neck, with a frill plaiting of ribbon of the same color; the bosom open, the sleeves long, divided at several distances, with tufts of floss silk, the skirt rather short with a trimming of ribbon to correspond with the neck.---Mantle the color of the dress, or scarlet made square, with lappel collar trimmed with a broad border of ribbon, of the same color.---Bonnet of black silk velvet, made high in the crown with full poke front, figured with tufts of let-in ribbon, of scarlet, or yellow, or variegated; a cluster of colored flowers on one side, with trimming of variegated ribbon.---The hair in full curls, in front and sides, with cap of thread lace.---an occasional handkerchief of variegated French silk.---Gloves of York tan.---Half boots of colored jean.
2. Evening Dress.---A robe of light green silk, embroidered at the feet with a broad border of flowers, over which a skirt of Italian gause, made full to fall half way below the knee, in vandyked scolops of French lace---bodice of white satin, made low on the breasts, and shoulders trimmed with scoloped lace to correspond; short sleeves of lace festooned with pearls, bracer of light green ribbon to tie in front.---The hair in full curls on the front and sides, to turn up behind à la Grecque, a wreath of variegated flowers incircling the top.---Necklace and ear-rings of diamonds.---Gloves of white French kid.---Slippers of white satin; with rosettes of silver.
General Observations.---Morning Walking Dresses, are generally of white muslin, made high to wear with the pelisse, or of colored silk, for the mantle and cloak order; the most prevailing colors are black, with trimmings of grey, grey with trimmings of the same, stone color with trimmings of the same, sometimes varied to green, or black.---Mantles are more prevailing than pelisses.---Hats are generally of seal fur.---Bonnets of colored velvet, made high in the crown, with full poke, trimmed with variegated flowers and ribbons, ornamented with tufts of colored ribbon; French shawls and scarfs or various colors, are much worn.---Half boots are general as morning dress.---Gloves of colored kid.
Half Dresses are of figured French silk, made close with long sleeves, the most prevailing colors are brown, grey, or stone color, with trimmings of ribbon of the same.---The hair in full curls in front, with a small cap of thread lace, ornamented with a small cluster of flowers on one side.---Necklace and ear-rings of pearl.---Shoes of black kid.---Gloves of York tan.---An occasional scarf of French silk, with a broad border of flowers.
Evening Dresses are of lace or Italian crape over slips of colored silk, the most prevailing colors are black, grey, green, or shot colors---the robe made a short walking length, rather full in the skirt, confined with small plaits at the waist---the bodice is composed in general of white satin, the bosom and back is variably low, with trimmings of scoloped lace, sleeves very short, festooned to the shoulder strap, with pearls or brilliants.---The hair invariably in the Grecian style, ornamented with flowers---brilliants are the most prevailing article of jewellery in use.---French shawls and scarfs, of various colors, are the general appendage to the evening dress.
Fashion for 1815
January 1815
MORNING and EVENING DRESSES.
1. Morning Walking Dress. --- A round robe of white muslin, made high on the neck, with scoloped flounce of lace at the feet and wrists; the sleeves long and full. --- Pelisse of brown-colored French cloth, made high on the neck, with collar of seal fur, made a short walking length, with broad full long sleeves, and puckered trimming of satin ribbon the color of the pelisse. --- A high French bonnet of black velvet, made high on the crown, and narrow in the poke, with a black ostrich feather in front, to tie under the chin with a small variegated French handkerchief. --- Hair in full curls on the sides of the forehead --- with a small cap of thread-lace in front. --- Half-boots to correspond in color with the dress. --- Gloves of York tan.
2. Morning Half-Dress. --- A gown of light green, dove, or light fawn-colored figured silk, made high on the neck, with frill plaiting in front of the bosom; the skirt made short, the sleeves full, trimmed with black or colored velvet. --- Head-dress, a small cap of French lace, with a cluster of flowers on one side --- the hair in full curls in front, and turned up behind. --- Shoes of black kid. --- Gloves of French kid.
3. Evening Dress. --- Silk robes of variegated colors are generally worn, made short, with broad festoon embroidery of variegated flowers found the feet --- the bodice formed of lace or white satin, made low on the bosom and shoulders, with a festoon trimming of scoloped lace --- the sleeves composed of lace festooned with seed pearls. --- The hair in thin ringlets round the front, turned up behind in a small knot, encircled with flowers, with a small cluster on one side. Necklace of brilliants. --- Ear-rings and bracelets en suite. -- Gloves of white French kid, made long. --- Slippers of white satin with silver rosettes. An occasional scarf of French silk.
General Observations. --- Morning Walking Dresses are of white muslin, or colored silk, made short, with full long sleeves, the neck made high --- over which, pelisses of various colored French cloth --- brown, green, and olive, are the most prevailing colors. --- Mantles and cloaks are much worn over the silk dresses. --- Bonnets of colored velvet, with high crowns, are in great request --- flowers or feathers are universal appendages to this order. --- Shawls and scarfs of various colors, of French manufactory, are much worn. --- Half-boots to correspond are general. --- Gloves of colored kid. Evening Dresses are of lace and variegated colored silk. Italian crapes over white satin slips --- the most prevailing colors are shot silk of variegated colors, generally figured, made very short in the skirt, low on the bosom and shoulders, with short sleeves, festooned with pearls or brilliants. Trimmings of ribbon or lace, very broad, and thick colored flowers in embroidery are very universal. The hair is in full thin curls on the forehead and sides, to turn up in a small knot behind, ornamented with flowers, with a sprig of brilliants or flowers in front. --- Brilliants are the most prevailing ornaments in jewellery for the evening dress. --- Scarfs and shawls with broad variegated borders are much worn. --- Slippers of white satin. --- Gloves of French kid.
The Mirror of Fashion for
May, 1815
EVENING DRESS
French body, of White Crape, ornamented with Pink Satin and Flowers; the white
Crape to be full, and banded with Pink Satin across the Bosom; the Sleeve
to be made full, and ornamented with Gymp trimming down the Arm, fastened
with Flowers.---Pink Satin Braces and Sash, the ends terminating with Flowers.
Petticoat of White Crape, fastooned with Pink Satin, and looped with small
Roses.---The Hair profusely ornamented with Flowers.
WALKING DRESS.
High Dress of India Jaconet Muslin; with gaged Body and Sleeves, double frilled
round the neck, double Flounce of scolloped Muslin round the Skirt. Spencer
of coloured Satin, ornamented with French trimming; the Epaulets of full Satin,
trimmed round; French Body; the Neck full trimmed with Satin, or Lace;---the
Sleeves made very full, and tied at the wrist with Satin Riband. Hat to correspond
with the Spencer, loop’d on one side, and ornamented with an Ostrich Feather.
The Mirror of Fashion for
July, 1815
EVENING DRESS.
Boddice of coloured Satin, worked with Chinelle top, with Silk Trimming at
the edge; French sleeve, full trimmed with Lace; the Train of white Crape,
double Trimming of Lace round the bottom of the Train; Gloves, Shoes, and
Ornaments, to correspond. Head-Dress richly ornamented with Flowers.
WALKING DRESS.
Of Jaconaut muslin; French top, double fill of worked muslin round the neck;
and the bottom to correspond; Spencer of coloured Satin, or striped Silk;
the top very full of Satin to correspond; richly ornamented with French trimmings;
O’Neil Hat, ornamented with Feathers; Boots, Gloves, and Parasol to Match.
The Mirror of Fashion for
August, 1815
EVENING DRESS.
French Boddice, made low, ornamented round the neck with lace net, inlaid
with French Trimming; long Sleeves, with lace let in, very full from the top
to the bottom; each side finished with French Trimming; the Cuff to correspond
with the neck; the train of Morina Crape, with French double Trimming; the
Hair curled in the neck, and richly decorated with flowers; Slippers of Satin,
or Kid, trimmed with Silver; Gloves, Fan, &c. to correspond.
WALKING DRESS.
Robe of Jaconaut Muslin, or fine Cambric, made high in the neck; the Back
and Sleeves made very full; double Frill of worked Muslin round the neck;
bottom of the robe to correspond; Dress-Spencer, of striped silk; with French
top; the back and Sleeves made very full; richly ornamented with Trimming.
French bonnet, composed of white Satin, ornamented with a full Plume of Ostrich
Feathers; half Boots, Gloves, Parasol, &c. to correspond.
The Mirror of Fashion for
September, 1815
EVENING DRESS.
Sprig Muslin Dress, double flounced, with broad Lace at the bottom, drawn
with coloured Ribbon; finished Bows in the front; full in the Body and Sleeves;
the Sleeves drawn at the top with coloured Ribbon, and finished with bows
to correspond with the bottom; the Head ornamented with Flowers and a profusion
of Curls; Gloves, Shoes, &c. to correspond.
WALKING DRESS. Of plain Muslin worn high in the neck; double Frill of worked Muslin; the bottom of the dress double-flounced, with worked Muslin; Pelisse of coloured Sarsnet, the Skirt worn rather short, trimmed with Lace broad Cape to turn over; the Sleeve ornamented with Silk Trimming, Silk Chord and Tassel to correspond; French Hat and Feathers, with short Veil to correspond with the Pelisse.
The Mirror of Fashion for
November, 1815
WALKING DRESS.
Pelisse of Cloth or Velvet; full Body and Sleeves, richly ornamented with
Silk or full Satin Trimming; the Skirt likewise ornamented with Trimmings;
Bonnet of Velvet or Satin to correspond, ornamented with Feathers; Half-boots,
Gloves, Ridicule, &c. to suit the Dress.
AFTERNOON DRESS.
Full Body and Sleeves of coloured Satin, richly ornamented with Lace of Silk
Trimming; the Train of Dress Muslin or Crape, richly ornamented at the bottom
with Lace, or coloured Ribbon to correspond with the Body; Shoes and Gloves
of white kid.
The Mirror of Fashion
for December, 1815
BALL DRESS.
Ball Dresses are of white or coloured crape, with spangles of the same colour;
short full Bishop’s sleeves, white silk handkerchiefs round the neck, ostrich
feathers drooping over the left eye.
WALKING DRESS.
Cambric muslin, double-scollop work at the bottom, neck and sleeves, to correspond.
Pelisse, purple velvet or maroon. Back very full. Sleeves rather large, ornamented
at the wrist with silk trimming. Collar full, and trimmed in the same manner
as the sleeves. Cord and tassel to correspond. Redicule of the same material
as the pelisse, trimmings the same.
EVENING DRESS.
The train of coloured satin or crape, festooned at the bottom with rich silk
trimming or ribbon. Sleeve rather loose, confined at the wristband, and trimmed
in the same manner as the train. The body rather full and low, festooned with
satin, and ribbon to correspond. Rich cord and tassel. hair ornamented with
flowers. Buckles seem reviving for shoes, and the colour of the gloves are
either pale yellow or in unison with the pelisses.
The above fashions are general.
PARISIAN FASHIONS.
FULL velvet hats are very generally worn. The chief alteration of late, in the embellishment, is the substitution of white for black feathers. The blonde which was laid on the black velvet hats, a la capote, is often covered more than an inch by a lace border. The few other hats worn are white and rose colour, and sometimes of these mixed. Some modistes present white turbans. Merinos for robes and riding-coats are much worn; the trimmings are either or ribbon or velvet; and of green, blue, white, or rose colour. The pelerines of almost all the riding-coats, instead of being rounded in front, are cut at right angles. These are ordinarily three or four in number, with the hair cut at bottom.
HAYTIAN COURT DRESSES.
VERY superb dresses for the Queen and Princesses of
Hayti have just been finished by one of our fashionable dress-makers. They
are as follow:---
QUEEN OF HAYTI’S DRESS.---Consists of petticoat of white satin, richly embroidered in gold sun-flowers, terminating at the bottom with a broad gold fringe, the train of white satin, embroidered like the petticoat, looped up on each side (to form a drapery) with gold tassels and bullion: a beautiful gold net falls from the left shoulder, and fastened under the right arm, held up by large cords of bullion over the shoulder, the corners and edges finished with tassels and fringe; a rich plume of white feathers, ornamented by combs of immense value, complete the dress.
THE PRINCESSES’ DRESSES.---The first, a petticoat of lilac satin, richly trimmed with three rows of gold and silver fringe, so arranged to form draperies; the body ornamented in like manner, finished at the bosom with a gold and silver cestus, with a finely executed rose, from which is suspended an elegant sash of gold and silver net; the train is of silver tissue, richly embroidered round the bottom with large leaves of cheneill (the veins of the leaves in gold), and large red roses; the sleeves are of silver tissue, each with a flower, the same as round the train; a very beautiful frog and tassels finishes the back; the whole trimmed all round with gold and silver fringe to correspond with the petticoat. The second, a pink corded satin petticoat and train, the petticoat covered with a beautiful blond lace, richly worked in silver, the bottom embroidered with scollops in silver lama, looped up on each side with large bunches of French flowers, roses and lillies of the valley; the train ornamented at the bottom with an elegant wreathing of silver hops and French roses, terminated by a broad blond lace worked in silver lama, like the petticoat; the sleeves richly embroidered in silver, as also the body, which is finished at the bosom with a silver cestus. From the left shoulder depends a rich drapery of blond and silver, finished on the right side by a very beautiful wreath of roses and other flowers.
GERMAN AND PRUSSIAN FASHIONS.
WELLINGTON demy boots, military, or half-boots, are of fine red kid and Morocco leather, or satin or scarlet dye, with very small yellow gilt buttons, to button on the side; a star of royal purple, embroidered on the instep, but small and purple binding with purple fringe; thin and narrow soles, made right and left, with very broad duck-nib toes.
Wellington slippers are of scarlet Morocco or kid leather, and also of scarlet satin; a star of royal purple, embroidered in the instep; purple binding; made right and left; thin and narrow soles, with broad duck-nib toes.
Blücher demy boots, military or half-boots, of royal purple or dark blue Morocco, and kid leather, also of purple satin; a scarlet star, embroidered on the instep, and scarlet bound; red leather buttons; thin narrow soles, made right and left; broad duck-nib toes.
PARISIAN FASHIONS
(from BELL'S WEEKLY MESSENGER, Aug. 26, 1798)
Since the change of female head-dresses, hats have also assumed a new form. The fore and hind parts are not so large in the brim as the sides, and are absolutely turned down, while the sides are turned up, and as it were curled. Perhaps we owe this variation to the hatters, who perceived all the deformity which the cropt heads would present if the hind part of the hat was turned up as heretofore. It is a sign of good taste to correct those defects which characterise the inventions of caprice.
Nobody takes off the hat as heretofore. The point of support is the nape of the neck; thence it is drawn up to the crown of the head, taking care not to disorder the hair. The manner of wearing them is also quite different. They are placed almost in the same way as leather caps, and the forehead is only shaded by the hair.
The gowns have also an equivocal shape, which makes it difficult to say whether they are really gowns or riding dresses.---Small collars, long waists, very short skirts, flaps on the sides. They resemble much those frocks which were worn twenty years ago.
The barbel-blue colour of men's coats is not now so generally adopted. We see much iron grey, and brown, beside the black, which is always in great vogue; a black coat is not now used for ceremony, as we see them worn with boots or pantaloons. The boots very pointed at the toes, do not reach higher then the calf of the leg. They are highly polished, which is the way in which our young people shine.--the pantaloons, generally of nankeen, reach within 10 inches of the ancle, where it is tied with a ribbon forming a small rose. The breeches, less tight, are more decent than before. The waistcoat is edged with black. Two small round flaps are formed into a kind of heart at the bottom.
Fashion Notes
(from Robert Southey's "Letters from England", 1802)
THE CAPRICE of fashion in this country would appear incredible to you if you did not know me too well to suspect me either of invention or exaggeration. Every part of the dress, from head to foot, undergoes such frequent changes, that the English costume is at present as totally unlike what it was thirty years ago as it is to the Grecian or Turkish habit. These people have always been thus capricious. Above two centuries ago a satirist here painted one of his countrymen standing naked, with a pair of shears in one hand, and a piece of cloth in the other, saying:
I am an Englishman, and naked I stand here,
Musing in my mind what raiment I shall wear,
For now I will wear this, and now I will wear that,
And now I will wear I cannot tell what.
Into the Breech!
(from Robert Southey's "Letters from England", 1802)
When J. was a school-boy every body wore leathern breeches, which were made so tight that it was a good half-hour's work to get them on the first time. The maker was obliged to assist at this operation:--observe, this personage is not called a tailor, but a maker of breeches,--tailors are considered as an inferior class, and never meddle with leather. When a gentleman was in labour of a new pair of leathern breeches, all his strength was required to force himself into them, and all the assistant operators to draw them on: when it was nearly accomplished, the maker put his hands between the patient's legs, closed them, and bade him sit on them like a saddle, and kick out one leg at a time, as if swimming. They could not be buttoned without the help of an instrument. Of course they fitted like another skin; but woe to him who was caught in the rain with them!--it was like plucking a skin off to get out of them.
Limb from Limb
(from Robert Southey's "Letters from England", 1802)
The shoes--I am not going back beyond a score of years in any of these instances--were made to a point in our unnatural method; they were then rounded, then squared, lastly made right and left like gloves to fit the feet. At one time the waistcoat was so long as to make the wearer seem all body; a another time so short that he was all limbs. The skirts of the cot were now cut away so as almost to leave the behind bare as a baboon, and now brought forward to meet over the thigh like a petticoat. Now the cape was laid flat upon the shoulders, now it stood up straight and stiff like an implement of torture, now was rounded off like a cable. Formerly the half-boot was laced: the first improvement was to draw it on like a whole-boot; it was then discovered that a band at the back was better than a seam, and that a silken tassel in front would be highly ornamental, and no doubt of essential use. By this time the half-boot was grown to the size of the whole one. The Austrians, as they were called, yielded to the Hessians, which having the seams on each side instead of down the back were more expensive and therefore more fashionable. Then came an invention for wrinkling the leather upon the instep into round folds, which were of singular utility in retaining the dirt and baffling the shoe-black. At length a superior genius having arisen among boot-makers, the wheel went completely round, and at this present time everybody must be seen in a pair of whole-boots of this great man's making.
Colour me Pretty
(from Robert Southey's "Letters from England", 1802)
Colour as well as shape is an affair of fashionable legislation.
Language is nowhere so imperfect as in defining colours; but if philosophical
language be deficient here, the creative genius of fashion is never at a loss
for terms. What think you of the Emperor's eye, of Mud of Paris, and Le
soupir etouffe, the Sigh supprest? These I presume were exotic flowers
of phraseology, imported for the use of the ladies; it is however of as much
importance to man as to woman, that he should appear in the prevailing colour.
My tailor tells me I must have pantaloons of a reddish cast, "All on
the reds now, sir!" and reddish accordingly they are, in due conformity
to this prescription. It is even regulated whether the coat shall be worn
open or buttoned, and if buttoned, whether by one button or two, and by which.
Sometimes a cane is to be carried in the hand, sometimes a club, sometimes
a common twig; at present the more deformed and crooked in its growth the
better. At one time every man walked these streets with his hands in his coat
pocket. The length of the neck of the handkerchief, the shape, the mode of
tying it must all be in the mode. There is a professor in the famous Bond-street,
who, in lessons at half-a-guinea, instructs gentlemen in the art of tying
their neck-handkerchiefs in the newest and most approved mode.
Female of the Species
(from Robert Southey's "Letters from England", 1802)
The women have been more extravagant than the men;--to be more foolish was impossible. Twenty years ago the smaller the waist the more beautiful it was esteemed. To be shaped like a wasp was therefore, the object of female ambition; and so tight did they lace themselves, or rather so tightly were they laced, for it required assistant strength to fasten their girths, that women have frequently fainted from the pressure, and some actually perished by this monstrous kind of suicide. About the same time they all wore powder; the hair at the sides was stuck out in stiff curls, or rolls, tier above tier, fastened with long double black pins; behind it was matted with pomatum into one broad flat mass, which was doubled back and pinned upon a cushion, against which the toupee was frizzed up, and the whole frosted over with powder white, brown, pink, or yellow. This was the golden age of hairdressers; the ladies were completely dependent upon them, and obliged to wait, patiently or impatiently, for their turn. On important occasions, when very many were to be drest for the same spectacle, it was not unusual to submit to the operation overnight, and sit up all night in consequence,--for to have lain down would have disordered the whole furniture of the upper story. The great hoop, which is now confined to the court, was then commonly worn in private parties. Besides this there were protuberances on the hips called bustlers, another behind which was called in plain language a rump, and a merry-thought of wire on the breast to puff out the handkerchief like a pouting pigeon. When women were obliged to sip their tea with the corner of their mouths, and to eat sideways. A yet more extraordinary costume succeeded, that of pads in front, to imitate what it must have been originally invented to conceal.
All these fashions went like the French monarchy, and about the same time; but when the ladies began to strip themselves they did not know where to stop.
And these follies travel where the science and literature and domestic improvements of the English never reach! Well does Anquillesi say in his address to Fashion:
(translated into English)
|
Not because she is free and industrious, |
Felie Beg
(from The Gentleman's Magazine for May, 1811)
Mr. URBAN, May 1.
AFTER perusing Mr. Carter's letter on page 631 of your last volume, I found my memory awakened to a letter which I had read some years ago in the Edinburgh Magazine for March, 1785. The letter is form Mr. Evan Baillie of Oberiachan, Inverness-shire, a most worthy and very sensible gentleman, and a lawyer of great accuracy and strict punctilio in all his transactions and assertions. The letter is dated March 22, 1768. In it he says that the felie beg, or little kilt, is rather of a late than antient usage. Mr. Baillie asserts it to be the invention of one Thomas Rawlinson, an Englishman engaged in carrying on iron works in Glengany and Lochaber, 50 years before he wrote, with whom he was acquainted, and who introduced it among his workmen, from whose example it son became common. Mr. Baillie never saw the kilt in use till the year 1725, when he came to reside in Inverness-shire, his native county, after having passed a few years in Edinburgh; nor did he ever before hear such a piece of dress mentioned even by his father (who was a very sensible highland gentleman) though he was born as far back as 1655. I therefore judge that the present dress of our Highland soldiers is quite different from the antient costume of any part of Scotland, which I apprehend consisted of jackets and trowsers; indeed I believe that the journal of an English officer who came with the Protector Somerset to the battle of Pinky, mentions the dress of the Scotch soldiers to be sheep-skin jackets and trowsers, without the least mention of kilts, plaids, or tartan. The Scotch bonnet I believe to be probably much the same as that in use some centuries ao in England and on the continent, before the introduction of hats. As to tartan, I cannot say when it was first made a part of the Scottish garb, though it is obvious to any person acquainted with antient costume, that party-coloured dresses were much in use among most European nations, without any regularity in making one side of the figure from top to bottom correspond with the other half; but, on the contrary, care was taken to make the difference as great as possible. Plaids, were, I dare say, the outward costume of most nations in antient times, as they indeed are in our own days. To these remarks I may add, that there is, perhaps, no strict propriety in using tartan in the costume of Macbeth, and certainly none in dressing him or his Thanes in kilts or felie begs, which are not yet an an invention of 100, far less 1000, years old. I believe that tartan is part of the dress of the peasants in the South of France in some districts. But the tartan, kilt, and other parts of the present Highland garb, have received so much splendor from the achievements of our countrymen in modern times, that no reference to antiquity could possibly add much honour to where so much has been more lately acquired; and no lover of his country will desire to see what has been called the garb of old Gaul (properly or not) changed for any other--antient or modern,
Yours, &c. H . R. D.
Gentlemen
(from Benjamin Silliman’s Journals..., 1805,1806)
Probably the genteel young men of England are the handsomest men on earth. It is true this is in part attributed to their dress, which is remarkably correct; their clothes are of the best materials--genteely made and genteely worn, and always clean and whole. They are never put on after they have become much defaced; still they are plain, and appear to be made for comfort and decency more than for exhibition. There is much less finery than with us, and there are very few fops. The footmen are almost the only coxcombs seen in London.
