Rambles

"In all their walks, he had had to jump her from the stiles; the sensation was delightful to her."

Just rambling
(from Joseph Ballard’s “England in 1815.”)

Sunday I walked to Highgate, a small village placed upon an eminence four miles from London. Thompson in his description of Richmond Hill denominates it one of the “sister hills.” The prospect from this place is extensive, embracing a fine view of the city. Here is a causeway built across a valley through which one of the great roads of London runs. It is of sufficient width for carriages to pass, and is formed of stone with a composition railing. I returned to the city by another road for the purpose varying the excursion. it is almost incredible as to the number of persons who leave town on the Sabbath here for a ramble into the country. Vehicles of every description, from the elegant barouche and chariot to the humble horse-cart, are put into requisition, and thousands of pedestrians, men, women and children, crowd all the avenues of the city upon this day, being their occupations so much engaged on week-days as to prevent their enjoying this comfort.

Being in want of a passport to enable me to leave the country, I was obliged to wait upon Mr. Adams, the United States Minister to the British Court, to obtain a paper to enable me to obtain one. I went accompanied by Dr. W. After walking about four miles, we found him at the west part of the town, in lodgings at a house in Harley Street. Over the front door was a signboard in large characters denoting that warm and vapor baths were to be had here. We were not at all pleased that the representative of the American nation should be so meanly lodged. This we thought was carrying his Republican simplicity a little too far! Mr. Adams treated us politely and furnished me with the necessary passport, being most particularly expressed in the following manner, viz., --- “Age 26 years, Stature 5 feet, 10 inches, Forehead high, Eyes blue, Nose aquiline, Mouth common, Chin round, Hair dark brown, Complexion clear, & Face oval.” After we had called upon Mr. A. we went to visit Messrs. Alston, Leslie and Morse, American painters. Mr. Morse was on the eve of setting out for Liverpool to embark from there to the United States. He shewed us a painting of his which he had just finished to be exhibited at the Academy, they having proposed the subject, for a prize. Mr. A., being very much engaged, was with us but a few minutes. Mr. Leslie I was extremely pleased with. He is possessed of very prepossessing manners. His celebrity and that of Mr. Alston as professional men is daily gaining ground and they bid fair to fill part of the chasm, which will be formed by the death of West, who is now much advanced in life.

There is never a dearth of novelty to a stranger in the streets of London. Numerous ways are resorted to by the beggars to attract attention and gain a halfpenny. One poor fellow who had lost both his legs, has a board before him upon which he chalks in so elegant a manner that it would not disgrace a copper-plate engraver, any word that the spectator desires, beginning at the end and writing them bottom upward, thus in this way.

top

16th (May), 1815

I left London for the country. There were three passengers in the coach, a gentleman and his lady and a young lady, all of whom I found quite agreeable persons. The country was beautiful, and the trees were in bloom, and the pure air was grateful to me who had breathed nothing but coal smoke for so long a time. We passed many residences of the nobility. Near Stamford is Burleigh House, the seat of the marquis of Exeter. At the entrance of the park is a most noble gateway in the Gothic order. At Stamford are many churches, one of them apparently very antique. The steeple to it is of immense height. While we were here changing horses we were almost stunned with the music of a peal of bells which some amateur in that science was playing upon. At Newark we saw the ruins of the castle of that name, which was destroyed by Oliver Cromwell in the civil war. The battlements were many of them entire, and the moon shining upon them added very much to their romantic appearance. At Ferrybridge we crossed the river Aire over a remarkably handsome stone bridge. During the journey I was frequently regaled with refreshments which the gentleman had brought and which he was so polite as to offer me. We travelled all night. At dusk I was not a little surprised at beholding my fair fellow traveller, who was quite a pretty girl, take off her bonnet, tie on her night cap, and leisurely compose herself to sleep in one corner of the coach, where she made quite and interesting appearance. After going with almost incredible swiftness, we arrived a Leeds, at 6 o’clock in the morning, being at a rate of eight miles and one-third each hour (including stoppages for refreshments, changing horses, etc.) --- a velocity with which I desire never to travel again.

At Leeds in the evening I saw the Indian Jugglers, three natives of India. They were so out of the common sphere of exhibitions of this kind that I was perfectly astonished. The last feat was the swallowing of a sword, the blade of it twenty inches in length. This was not sleight-of-hand, but the practice of doing it from a child had rendered it familiar. The amazing power of mechanism compared to manual labor is demonstrated at Leeds in a variety of ways. At a warehouse I saw a packing press having thirty-two tons power, arising from the pressure of a pail of water pumped up to the ceiling through a small pipe, and which in returning forces the press down with this amazing weight. it is so easy in its operation that a lad of eight years has sufficient strength for the purpose. There are also in Leeds eighteen wagons for carrying coal, the weight of which when loaded cannot be estimated at less than one hundred tons. These are propelled altogether by steam. They run upon a perfect plane with irons which fit into grooves on the wheels. These wagons deliver an immense quantity of coal out of Leeds. The price of them is about seven shillings a chaldron [32 bushels]. At a manufactory I saw the different operations from the beginning to the finishing of a piece of cloth. The whole machinery was put in force by a steam engine which cost the proprietor one thousand guineas. Here also were imprisoned about fifty wretched boys and girls, the eldest not over ten years of age. They were all besmeared with dirt and grease arising from the wool. The proprietor observed in reply to my asking him if they never want to play, that they were there at six in the morning and never left off work, except for dinner, until seven at night. Thus these poor little wretches are confined in these hells --- deprived of education and buried in these dark, noisy and unwholesome dens. They either pass a quick but miserable existence or furnish turbulent, ignorant and vicious members of society.

top

19th. I dined this day at the seat of a gentleman a few miles out of town. The situation, surrounded with pleasure grounds and gardens, was pleasant. Among the shrubs in the garden was a barberry bush, which is here esteemed as a great curiosity. At dinner there was a number of handsome and agreeable ladies present. This meal was served up in a most splendid style. The excessive attention of the servants was to me quite disagreeable. Lady F., one of those present, was very sociable and asked me many questions respecting America. Speaking of our navy she remarked that all our ships were manned by Englishmen, and proved the remark by saying “Otherwise, how could they fight so?” I was not astonished at the manner of her reasoning as I have often heard the same opinion expressed by many persons when speaking or our navy. After dinner the whole party took a walk through the many fine gardens and fields until we came to the brow of a hill when all at once a most beautiful landscape presented itself. At a short distance was a wood near the banks of the river Aire, over which was thrown a pretty stone bridge. On the left were ruins of Kirkshall Abbey, once a most magnificent building. The grandeur of the turret is still visible on a nearer approach. I was highly gratified. We entered the cemetery under the abbey. Here were several stone coffins which once contained the ashes of some nun or monk. The roof of the dining hall is quite entire, the gothic arches which support it being very beautiful. The southern window is very fine, and quite perfect.

Beyond the grand gateway is the hall or chapel. The galleries to it are supported by immense stone pillars, all in high perfection. Some of the towers are whole; one of them had a circular flight of stone steps which led to the top. From vestiges of the walls around the ruins which still remain, it is presumed the lands belonging to this institution were of large extent. In one part of this land is a large cistern hewn out of solid stone. The venerable walls and towers overgrown with ivy and tinged with the last rays of the setting sun, together with the delightful landscape around, rendered the scene truly charming; so much was I gratified that I determined to pay this place another visit before my departure. During conversation in the evening a lady observed, after one of the young ladies had been singing and playing, that it was quite shocking how to behold every vulgar, ill-born wretch attain an accomplished education, and that she understood that every tradesman’s daughter was taught music, etc. Most unfortunately she directed her remarks to me, and by the manner in which they were delivered she seemed to require my assent to her observations. This she did not have, and I, I suppose, for my republican notions, forfeited the lady’s good opinion of my politeness.

20th. This being market day here, I went at nine o’clock into the Cloth Hall. This is quite large, being four halls of three hundred and fifty feet in length. each person has an allotted space, marked with his name and town, whereon he exhibits his cloths for sale. At the ringing of a bell the sales begin and continue one hour. Except at that time no one is allowed to buy or sell in the building. There were on this day exposed for sale above one thousand pieces of cloth. The owners of them spoke such a curious dialect that I could not understand one word in ten they uttered.

Part of the Prince Regent’s own regiment is stationed at Leeds. They are the finest looking men I ever beheld. There are also other soldiers here, whose recruiting parties parade the street, with a noble band of music. They have just passed, having two or three country lumpkins in company, to whom the soldiers have given their swords and exchanged their caps for their hats, with which the great boobies seemed as much pleased as a child with a rattle.

top

Sunday, 21st. Attended divine service at the old church. This is a venerable building. It has a painted window; over the altar is a fine picture of our Saviours taking the cup at the Last Supper. The ceiling is also painted but the dampness arising from the floor (which is used as a burial place and covered with stone) has considerably injured it. Here are also several handsome monuments; one a beautiful piece of workmanship in marble representing an angelic figure weeping over the flag of England. This was erected to the memory of two gallant officers, natives of Leeds, who fell at the battle of Talavera in Spain. In one part of the church are hung the banner and armorial bearings of several knights. The preacher was tolerable; his subject was the piety of Cornelius the centurion. There were fifty one banns of marriage published this morning; in addition to this several couples were joined in the holy bonds of matrimony previous to the beginning of the church service. The organ of this church is justly celebrated as being one of the finest toned ones in England. I dined at Mr. O’s in company with the Messrs. Hoffman of Baltimore. The dinner was quite in the family style. Mr. O. remarked that his aunt was married by the celebrated Sterne, and that a few days ago he had in his possession a whip which formerly belonged to that eccentric character. After we had dined the company walked out of town upon a visit to Kirkstall Abbey. I was no less delighted now than on my former visit. There were a number of common people rambling through the ruins of whom I asked a variety of questions respecting the antiquity of the place, and I received some very curious answers. We passed through the chapel at the end of which is a noble large window with some of its ornaments still remaining. In a small recess the font for holy water is still perfect, and the same is seen in a number of private chapels adjoining the great one. Ascending a flight of stone steps we came into a gallery from whence a circular staircase leads into one of the towers, but owing to the ruinous state of the steps we did not ascend. Several boys had however mounted to the top in quest of rooks’ nests, those birds being the only inhabitants of this once splendid structure. Beneath the abbey is a dungeon, appropriated formerly as a place of punishment for refractory nuns and friars. The garden which is enclosed by the walls of the abbey is still kept in perfect order. The abbey, with the surrounding lands, belongs to the Earl of Cardigan, who endeavours to prevent the further decay of the edifice by employing a person to take care of it.

In the evening I attended St. James’ church, a modern building , entirely destitute of ornament. This being Trinity Sunday, the sermon was appropriate to the occasion, and was delivered by the preacher without notes. The psalms were read by a clerk with a broad Yorkshire dialect, and sung in a most discordant manner. At Mr. O’s I was introduced to the Rev. Doctor Kewley of New York, whose church in Beekman Street having recently been burned he was enabled while it was rebuilding to leave upon a visit to his friends in England. He politely gave me his address with an invitation to call upon him should I visit New York.

top

UPON quitting that fine architectural pile of buildings, the CIRCUS, the visitor soon passes through Bennet-Street, leaving the NEW ASSEMBLY ROOMS on this right. Russel-Street is also passed on the left. Directly opposite Bennet-Street stand those elegant range of houses, designated by the name of Belmont and Oxford Row; and, at the extremity of the latter place, on the left, is Montpelier-Row, in which is situated Christ Church, built after the modern Gothic style, upon a piece of land presented by the Right Hon. Lord Rivers. It is a very neat building, and was erected by subscription; for the very praiseworthy purpose of providing a place where the poor might hear the word of God preached unto them; and in order to render this desirable circumstance effectual, the area is let unenclosed and open to all frequenters. The galleries only are let out; the produce of which are applied to the support of the establishment. Proceeding forwards to Belvidere-Place, every step becomes interesting to the spectator as he passes through Lansdown-Street, Lansdown-Grove, Spencer’s Belle Vue, Springfield-Place, Richmond-House, Grove-Place, &c. At some little distance on the left is seen Landsown-Square; and upon the right is America-Buildings and Hooper-Street. In ascending the hill, if the spectator turns round, a most delightful view of Bathford, Lambridge, &c. presents itself. A little beyond the first mile-stone, on the right, stands a small public-house, known by the sign of the Hare and Hounds; and about a mile from this place the road becomes level ground, walled in on both sides with stones piled on each other, but not fastened together by any mortar. The prospect is now extensive, and a fine range of hills appear on the left. The Race-Ground is soon discovered from a very mean and contemptible erection, denominated the “GRAND STAND;: which is nothing more than an empty shed, thatched over, and the ascent to which is by a temporary staircase. Such a receptacle for accommodating the beauty and fashion of Somerset, does but ill accord with the princely mansions in the City of Bath. The races have been revived within the last five years, and are generally held upon the 8th and 9th of July; but they are not in much estimation in the sporting world. A board here also informs those whom it may concern, “that prosecutions will be instituted against those persons found badger-baiting, pricking in the garter, or practising any other nefarious games.” Persons are also cautioned against the danger of mounting the walls, as several people have been dreadfully bruised, and others lost their lives from the stones giving way. At no great distance from the Race-Ground stands the Blathwayte Arms, close to which the Fair at Lansdown is held annually on the 10th of August. It is a very large fair, and distinguished for the sale of horses, and large quantities of cheese: great numbers of cattle and pigs are also brought here. It is a most convenient spot for the numerous assemblage of persons that arrive from Bristol, Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, &c. and it proves quite a jubilee-day for the country people to enjoy the fun with which it abounds. The gingerbread-stalls form a long street; and numerous shows from different parts of England, of every description, to obtain the money from the pockets of the lads and lasses, are not wanting. Lansdown Fair is also notorious for a number of pitched battles which are fought by the pugilistic heroes of Bristol. On the Downs, at the third mile-stone, there is a fine view of a valley and hills on the right; and in front of the traveller, the LANSDOWN PILLAR now appears conspicuous. The walk for the next half-mile is as fertile in scenery as the most lively imagination can suggest; and this part of Somersetshire has been often compared to some of the picturesque and enchanting prospects in Switzerland. These Downs have often been the theme of celebrated painters; and among whom, it is said, not the least animated in their praise, is the venerable President of the Royal Academy. The Bath cream-cheese, an article of such high epicurean taste, is produced by the dairies furnished from these luxuriant pastures.

top

The traveller arrives at length at the PILLAR, which stands at a short distance from the main road. It is built of freestone; but, as a piece of architecture, it has nothing at the present period about it to command any particular interest; and the efforts of time have also committed some ravages upon its beauty. This spot, it appears, was rendered famous in history, from a battle fought here in 1643, between the King’s and the parliamentary forces, on the 5th of July. The royal side was commanded by the Marquis of Hertford, but the King’s horse was so shaken, that out of 2000 which came into action, not above 600 survived the havoc of the battle; but the Parliamentary General, Sir William Waller, was ultimately compelled to quit his post, and to take refuge in Bath, from the spirited conduct of the Marquis. The above monument was erected by GEORGE LORD LANSDOWN in 1720, to commemorate his ancestor SIR BEVIL GRANVILLE, who fell in this desperate engagement. The east and west sides of the monument are sculptured with warlike trophies, the Royal arms, and those of the Granvilles. The crest of the Granvilles surmounts the whole. On the shaft of the columns is the following inscription; and the subjoined account of the engagement, from Clarendon’s History of the Rebellion, is engraven on the south side of the pedestal: ---

To the immortal memory of his renowned Grandfather
and valiant Cornish Friends, who conquered, dying in
the Royal Cause, July 5th, 1643, this Column was de-
dicated by the Hon. GEORGE GRANVILLE, Lord
LANSDOWN, 1780.
--- Dulce est pro patriâ mori.

On the north are the following lines written in the year 1643, by William Cartwright: ---

“When now the incens’d rebels proudly came
Down like a torrent, without bark or dam;
When undeserv’d success urg’d on their force,
That thunder must come down to stop their course,
Or Granville must step in; then Granville stood,
And with himself oppos’d and check’d the flood;
Conquest or death was all his thoughts, so fire
Either o’ercomes, or does itself expire.
His courage work’d like flames, cast heat about,
Here, there, on this, on that side, none gave out.
Not any pike in that renowned stand,
But took new force from his inspiring hand,
Soldier encourag’d soldier, man urg’d man,
And he urg’d all; so far example can.
Hurt upon hurt, wound upon wound did fall,
He was the butt, the mark, the aim of all.
His soul this while retired from cell to cell,
At last flew up from all, and then he fell;
But the devoted stand, enrag’d the more
From that his fate, plied hotter than before.
And, proud to fall with him, swore not to yield.
Each sought an honour’d grave, and gain’d the field.
Then, being fall’n, his actions fought anew,
And the dead conquer’d whilst the living flew.”

--- WILLIAM CARTWRIGHT.

On the same side are the following lines by Martin Llewellen.

“Thus slain, thy valiant ancestor did lie,
When his own bark a navy did defy.
When now encompass’d round, the victor stood,
And bath’d his pinnace in his conqu’ring blood,
Till all his purple current, dried and spent,
He fell and made the waves his monument.
Where shall the next fam’d Granville’s ashes stand?
Thy grandsire fills the seas, and thou the land.”

---MARTIN LLEWELLEN.

top

At this spot the spectator is well repaid for his curiosity. He is lost, as it were, with the vast expanse before him; and however strong and elegant language may be applied towards communicating its brilliant and sublime effect, description is totally inadequate to convey any thing like the reality of the scene. Through a field or two on the left, which is easily ascertained , the traveller will gain what is denominated “PROSPECT STYLE;” so termed from the completeness of the view which it affords. The Avon in all its windings, the cities of Bristol and Bath, are immediately recognised; the junction of the Severn with the Avon is also distinctly traced; and the fine Monmouthshire hills increase the effect. The scenery all around is bold as well as picturesque; and although at the distance of forty miles from Lansdown, the Bloreuch and Sugar Loaf mountains are accurately distinguished. The perspective is enchanting, and the local view likewise is interesting. Here and there a gentleman’s seat is seen in the valley --- the little spire of a country church --- farm-houses and cottages --- the fertile ground all around --- the charming foliage of the trees --- the extent of the hedges dividing the various lands, the sheep feeding, &c. furnishing a most admirable landscape for the exquisite talents of a POUSSIN. The herbage on these Downs is considered the most nutritive in the West of England for fattening of sheep; and those fed upon the adjacent hills hold no comparison with the numbers which are reared on Lansdown.

Th’ unbusied shepherd, stretch’d beneath the hawthorn,
His careless limbs thrown out in wanton ease,
With thoughtless gaze perusing the arch’d heavens,
And idly whistling while his sheep feed round him,
Enjoys a sweeter shade than that of canopies
Hemm’d in by cares, and shook by storms of treason.

If the traveller wishes to extend his excursion to WICK he will be amply repaid for his exertion. he must now make forwards again to the PILLAR, and be particular in taking the road which leads to the left. The country all around him still continues worthy of his attention, and he will pass Ashton-Lodge on his right. On arriving at WICK, which is a small village, containing only a few straggling houses, the Crown Inn, kept by Mr. Gulley, affords a nice opportunity for refreshment to the visitor, before he commences his examination of the rocks. On the right, directly opposite to the above Inn, you pass through a gate, and, inclining a short distance to the left, over a small stone bridge, you enter the romantic scenery of Wick, which is about three quarters of a mile in length. It appears like a wilderness; the high trees, the beauty of their foliage descending into a sort of rivulet, and the rugged appearance of the Glen altogether, tend to make a pleasing sensation on the mind of the spectator. Here are also some iron works situated in this recess, well worthy the investigation of the traveller; but, without permission, no admittance to the view of the is granted. A style, on the left of the above works, presents itself, when, after ascending a hill, at a little distance, the traveller enters upon the rocks with all their majestic appearance; the loftiest parts of which exceed 200 feet in height. it is true, they fall very short by comparison to those of St. Vincent, near Clifton; but nevertheless they must be viewed as a great natural curiosity. In some places, the Glen is extremely craggy, and to persons of a timid disposition may appear rather awkward, if not dangerous to get along; but when once they are explored to the end, the prospect upon the water is delightful, interesting, stupendous, and grand, which is seen foaming over rugged masses of stone, from a most impetuous current, which ultimately falls in the Avon. The above Glen, within the last few years, has lost much of its romantic interest, from the introduction of several manufactories, in consequence of buying up the water to serve those purposes; since which, in the course of two miles, it now works no less than six mills, consisting of a paper, a cotton, an iron, a rolling, a slitting, and two grist mills. Persons visiting either Bath or Bristol ought not to omit viewing the rocks at Wick, if they possess in the slightest degree any taste for geology, painting, or romantic natural scenery, which the whole of this spot exhibits in so prominent a point of view. In fact, WICK is but half way from either of the above Cities. Returning to Bath the look-out all around the traveller upon Lansdown-hill is so extensive, diversified, and powerful, that any thing like monotony is out of the question; and the commonest or most indifferent spectator in the world cannot pass and repass it, without reflecting upon the pleasure he has derived in contemplating the beauties of nature and the sublimity of the works of the creation.

top

view a print of
Peak's Hole at Castleton.

Having procured the proper guide, I went first to see the famous Peak's hole. As we approached this wonderful cavern, we crossed a bridge over a rivulet, which issues from the mouth of the cave; this mouth is at the bottom of a perpendicular rock, that forms part of the front of the mountain. The form of this part of the mountain is like that of a book set on end, and half opened, the back of the book being from the observer. Near the angle is the mouth of the cavern. As we proceeded into the fissure, I looked up these rocky walls, and saw the old castle at a giddy height, apparently threatening to fall. The guide pointed out several reins of lead. The entrance into the cavern passes close under the right side of the two precipices, which meeting at an acute angle, form the fissure in the mountain. Impressions of sublimity are produced by looking up this precipice of 250 feet, perpendicular height, and a kind of horror is added to the place by numerous jackdaws, which build their nests in the crevices, and find in these inaccessible cliffs a secure retreat; they were continually flying, in a black cloud, around the rocks, and disturbing the air with their croaking. These rocks are lime stone, filled with marine exuviae. We now entered the cavern. It opens with a grand arch, almost mathematically regular, but the abutment on the left is considerably lower than that on the right. This arch is 120 feet wide, and 70 feet high, reckoning from the level of the abutment on the left. Under this magnificent portico, we entered the first cavern, which is 180 feet long, the arch falling a little towards the farther end. I was surprised to find the cavern inhabited. A number of poor women and children carry on here a manufacture of cord and twine, and some of them live her permanently in small huts, sheltered by the impending mountain. Having arrived at the end of this first cavern, I looked back with feelings of awe and solemnity, not unmixed with something very much like dread. This cavern is only a continuation of the great arch arch at the entrance, falling as it recedes from the light, of which there is however enough to enable one to see the whole of it, and to make him realize that a mountain is over his head. This arched rood, being of lime stone, abounds with calcareous concretions, and a remarkable one was pointed out, which, from its form, and the manner in which it depends from the roof, is called the Flitch of Bacon.

The end of the cavern is so much contracted in its dimensions, that it has been completely closed up, by an artificial wall, where there is a door, of which the guide has the key. This wall and door are intended to exclude impertinent visitors, and to secure the guide the exclusive privilege of conducting strangers through the place.

My guide now took several lighted candles in his hands, and gave me one. He then disclosed the entrance of his infernal dominion; not with all that "impetuous recoil and jarring sound," which once "grated harsh thunder" to "the lowest bottom of Erebus," but with as much pomp as might be supposed to attend the opening of a door of rough boards, moving reluctantly, on creaking hinges.

After entering the door, the passage became narrow and low, and we proceeded, stooping, till we arrived in a place called the Bell House, from some resemblance between its form and that of a bell.

Beyond this, the cavern became again low and narrow, till it was almost closed, leaving only a small orifice of about three feet diameter. Here the rivulet, which we had followed up from the mouth of the cave, spread into a little lake, occupying the whole of the bottom of the cavern. But we were not stopped; there was a ferry boat all ready. The bottom of it was spread with clean straw, and by the direction of my guide I got into it, and lay down flat on my back. My guide stepped into the water up to his knees, and pushed the boat before him through the narrow aperture, which was merely high enough to permit the boat to pass, and the guide to crawl after it. It would be impossible for one to pass if sitting up in the boat. It required no very livid imagination, nor much familiarity with classical literature, to find in this adventure the Charon, Styx, and Avernus of poetical fable.

We had now arrived in a new cavern, much larger and more majestic than any which we had yet seen. A flood of light was necessary to render it all visible, for it was 120 feet high, 200 broad, and 250 feet long. Its walls were lime stone, filled as before with shells. Crossing the rivulet on stepping stones, we next found ourselves in a smaller cavern, which, on account of the constant exudation of water from the roof, is called Roger Rain's House.

A Large cavern, called the Chancel, came next. Its appearance was broken and rude, and the lights discovered some stalactites. EWhen the guide has noticed that a party is coming to view the cavern, he causes a piece of deception to be played off on the Chancel, which I, being a solitary stranger, had not the pleasure of witnessing. When the party arrive in this cavern, they are, all in a sudden, astonished and confounded at hearing from the roof of this solitary mansion, which, a moment before, was dark as midnight, and silent as the tombs, an instantaneous burst of human voices, multiplied by a thousand echoes. While they are, in vain, looking for the cause of this seeming enchantment, a blaze of light from the roof of the cavern discovers a number of figures in white, singing and bearing torches in their hands. These who are not in the secret, are almost persuaded that they are in an enchanted cave, where the scenes of romance and fable have real existence. The delusion vanishes how-ever, when they are informed, that a number of people from the village, equipped on purpose, have gone up a secret passage to the roof of the Chancel, with concealed lights, which, at the concerted moment, they suddenly produce.

We travelled on to a fissure in the rock, called the Devil's Cellar, and, after having descended gradually 150 feet, we came to the half way house. The roof now assumed greater regularity; three parallel arches were in view, and, beyond these, a cavern like a bell, called Tom of Lincoln. Proceeding, we found the cavern very various both in height and breadth; the rivulet appeared perfectly transparent, and its bed was white with calcareous spar, brought down and rounded by the water.

At length we reached the end of this grand subterraneous wonder; its whole length 220 feet, or nearly half a mile.

My guide assured me that he had put pieces of bark into a particular water four miles from this place, and had found them afterwards floating down this rivulet, whence he concluded that there was a subterranean connection. He was very intelligent, extremely attentive to my safety, and, although an unlettered man, had no small share of humour. He entertained me with an account of distinguished persons, who had visited the cave in his time, among whom he named Dr. Solander, Sir Joseph Banks, and the Prince of Wales.

I inquired whether ladies ever visited the cave? He replied, "O yes! two ladies to one gentleman!"

"Ah, how is that"--Have the ladies more curiosity or more courage than the gentlemen?"

"I don't know; the ladies have a deal of curiosity!"

I then asked him whether he was afraid the French would come? He answered, "NO; but I wish I had Bonaparte in my power."

"What would you do with him?"

"I would chain him at the end of my cavern, and keep him for a sight: I should then have visitors enough."

We now retraced our steps. I was again laid in the little boat, and ferried through the narrow passage;--we travelled back as fast as we could with safety, and with candles burnt down to our fingers, again reached the wooden door, and opening it, beheld the light, with a little secret joy, which, had I been questioned, I might have been too stout-hearted to have acknowledged.

top

IN starting from Great Pultney-Street, the visitor will, for a moment, turn aside from the mansions of fashion and elegance, to take a cursory view of the abode of depravity and misconduct, in order to render the view of this highly-famed city complete and impartial. At the bottom of Grove-Street, on the right, stands the BRIDEWELL of Bath, on a piece of ground 160 feet each way, the exterior of which is more like the residence of a gentleman, from its architectural taste, than the gloomy walls of a prison. It is from the iron bars across the windows that principally designates its character; but, “disguise thyself as thou wilt,” observes STERNE, “still thou art a bitter draught!” The interior is clean, though small; and the yards for the different degrees of crime too much confined for room. The small house in the middle of the whole area is kept solely for the confinement of the felons, but which appears scarcely big enough to contain a dozen persons. It is also a prison for debtors. Plans, it is said, are under the consideration of the Corporation to erect a New Gaol, or to enlarge the present prison; but its inhabitants, however, are seldom numerous, owing to its well-regulated police. In returning up Grove-Street, (which also contains the Girls Free-School, a most excellent institution, and under the immediate protection of the Rev. Mr. Warner,) an archway presents itself, which leads immediately to the side of the Avon; and, proceeding along the banks of the river, enjoying the view of the various fine elevations, the venerable abbey, &c., Waterloo-Place is soon passed, and, on turning to the left, the main street of Widcombe, this suburb of Bath is gained. This outlet has also to boast of the high-sounding names of Widcombe-Parade and Claverton-Place. Turning on the right, at the bottom of the Parade, the Poor-House, on a small hill, is pleasantly and healthfully situated. At a little distance from this spot is a large pair of gates, which protect the private road to PRIOR-PARK, the once celebrated seat of the benevolent RALPH ALLEN, Esq. On the left of which, upon a very high eminence, stands the back part of Widcombe-Crescent, a range of very handsome buildings. The prospect now becomes pleasing, from the sprinkling of elegant houses, particularly a small thatched Gothic cottage, upon a hill, on the right, which serves to show the excellent taste adopted by the builders of Bath. Pursuing a steady course, another gate is passed, which originally was called “ALLEN’S WALK.” The considerate disposition of this humane character had induced him, for the accommodation of the public, to erect, in several parts of this walk, stone seats; but all of which are now removed. A road to the left leads to Widcombe Church. On a very lofty eminence stands the fine seat of Mr. Tugwell, the banker. The spectator here becomes so enraptured with the surrounding scene, that for a moment he is lost in ecstasy in beholding the beauties of nature and art combined. To the right, on one side of the road, are fine lofty elm-trees, which, during the time of ALLEN, were growing on both sides, and their boughs so closely entwined with each other, as to form in the winter time a most singular but complete picture of a long Gothic arch. At an opening, a few yards further along the road, on turning round to take a look at the City, the Royal-Crescent appears with peculiar grandeur; in fact, the whole circle, for richness and luxuriance of prospect, defies recital. In peeping over a stone-wall, about four feet high, on the left side of the road, the pleasure-grounds beneath, belonging to PRIOR-HOUSE, appear in fine cultivation; and the water, and the foliage of the chestnut, fir, and elm trees increase the effect. On proceeding up the road, a slight view of the mansion-house appears, also the residence for the keeper, and upon an ascent on the left, an antique look-out. By the side of the road stands a piece of freestone, as a sort of sample, to show how very large some of them are brought from the quarries. It measures in height twelve feet, and three in breadth. A few steps farther, and the traveller experiences the pleasing sensation of treading upon classical British ground: a SPOT, that must ever prove dear to the lovers of literature, when it is remembered, that it was here the inimitable FIELDING produced his TOM JONES, (that standard of novels in the English language:) and to which may be added several literary works were also written by that most powerful enlightened scholar and wit Bishop WARBURTON. With these recollections, PRIOR-PARK-HOUSE becomes of the most interesting nature; and it cannot be viewed merely for its delightful situation, beautiful grounds, and distinguished architecture; nor passed over with the common routine of a gentleman’s estate. From the virtues of its once liberal-minded proprietor, and the extraordinary talents of its inmates, such as POPE, FIELDING, and WARBURTON, it possesses far more sterling claims to respect and admiration.

top

PRIOR-PARK-HOUSE is so called from the circumstance of its having been built on land which formerly belonged to the prior of Bath, who had a grange, or farm, at a short distance from it, and a park that supplied the monastery with venison. It was erected by the celebrated Ralph Allen, Esq. in 1743, on a slope of land 100 feet below the summit of Coomb-Down, and 400 feet above the City of Bath; and is certainly one of the most magnificent freestone mansions, with respect to its outside, in the kingdom. A noble house forms the centre; from the extremities of which stretch two sweeping arcades, connecting with the main body, as many wings of offices, terminated by elegant pavilions, and forming a continued line of building of nearly 1300 feet in front. The style is Corinthian, raised on a rustic basement, and surmounted by a balustrade. From the plane of the centre part an extremely-grand portico projects, supported by six large and elegant columns. But all the majesty of the building is without. Within, every thing (if we except the Chapel, which is neat and elegant, and adorned with an altar-piece, by Van Deest) is little, dark, and inconvenient; and seldom has so much money been so injudiciously applied, as the enormous sum expended in the comfortless Palace of Prior-Park. Fielding laid the scene of the early years of Tom Jones at this place and has, also, in his work, given a picture of the beautiful situation of Mr. Allen’s house, the Allworthy of his novel. Making allowances for the fancy of an author, in an imaginary river, sea, distant island, and ruined abbey, the description is tolerably correct; at least, many of its most agreeable features are real. From the novel, it appears, “the house stood on the south-east side of a hill, but nearer to the bottom than the top of it, so as to be sheltered from the north-east by a grove of old oaks, which rose above it, in a gradual ascent of nearly half a mile, and yet high enough to enjoy a most charming prospect of the valley beneath. In the midst of the grove was a vine-lawn, sloping towards the house, near the summit of which rose a plentiful spring, gushing out of a rock, covered with firs, and forming a constant cascade of about thirty feet, not carried down a regular flight of steps, but tumbling in a natural fall over the broken and mossy stones, till it came to the bottom of the rock; then running off in a pebbly channel, that with many lesser falls winding along, till it fell into a lake at the foot of a hill, about a quarter of a mile below the house, on the south side, and which was seen from every room in the front. Out of this lake, which filled the centre of a beautiful plain, embellished with groups of beeches and elms, and fed with sheep, issued a river, that for several miles was seen to meander through an amazing variety of meadows and woods, till it emptied itself into the sea, with a large arm of which, and an island beyond it, the prospect closed. On the right of this valley opened another of less extent, adorned with several villages, and terminated by one of the towers of an old ruined abbey, grown over with ivy, and part of the front which still remained entire. The left scene presented the view of a fine park, composed of very unequal ground, and agreeable varied with all the diversity that hills, lawn, wood, and water, laid out with admirable taste, but owning less to art than nature, could give. Beyond this the country gradually rose into a ridge of wild mountains, the tops of which were above the clouds.” He has omitted, however, the splendid Palladian bridge at the bottom of the pleasure-grounds; and the striking view of Bath caught beyond this structure, which before the additions to the city, made within these last forty years, must have formed a very interesting feature in the prospect. The character which Fielding has given us of his patron is of so exalted a nature, that we should be tempted to believe the anticipation of the rich remuneration he received for his eulogium, £500, had made him paint “beyond the reach of nature,” did not general report, and local tradition, confirm the account of the novelist to its fullest extent; and united in assuring us, that Mr. Allen was one of the best as well as most fortunate of men .

“Let low-born Allen, with ingenious shame,
Do good by stealth, and blush to find it fame.”

top

The back part of PRIOR-PARK-HOUSE is also extremely elegant, and ornamented with six very lofty pillars of the Doric order; it is singular to remark, that the roof is made of stone, and also several of the window-sashes. The prospect from every part of this elegant residence captivates the beholder. On quitting the house a lodge is soon passed, contiguous to which are two roads, the left leading to Trowbridge, and the right to Bristol. Proceeding forwards, the traveller arrives at a spot of ground, upon which some remnants of rows of fir-trees still remain, originally intended, it appears, as a shade for persons in their carriages. In the time of the Worthy ALLEN, this place was a complete grove, and extended for a long distance; but since those generous days, and from its change of masters, profit and the cutting-down system have prevailed over any thing like public accommodation. In fact, PROIR-PARK-HOUSE, with all its present contiguous beauties, is but a mere skeleton, compared to what it originally was. At Isabella-Place, which is but a short distance from this rural spot, one of the finest views for extensive scenery that can possibly be imagined bursts upon the already delighted traveller: the immense chain of high hills, as far as the eye can stretch, have a grand and majestic appearance. On the left is Salisbury-Plain; next appears Warminster, and the White Horse cut out of the turf at Westbury under the plain, in Wiltshire, is seen without any difficulty. In the centre stands the unrivalled seat of the Marquis of Bath, called Longleat, the fine park and woody appearance of which tends to increase the beauty of the surrounding prospect; and the perspective view of Alfred’s tower, erected on the abrupt termination of a very lofty hill, belonging to Sir Richard Colt, Bart. gives an interesting finish to this charming expanse of country. When the fascinated spectator can remove from this brilliant panoramic spectacle, he will pass Prospect-Place, a very neat row of houses, and which very properly merits its title. Byfield Buildings is also pleasantly situated, and a few paces forwards the visitor, if inclination permit him, may descend into the stone-quarries at Combe-Down, opened and worked by Mr. Allen. This sudden contrast is extremely pleasing: the vast depth of freestone which has been excavated from the earth; the lofty arches, or pillars, remaining in a craggy state, left by the excavators to let in light to the subterraneous passages and caverns which extend for a considerable way under the earth, most interestingly claim the attention of the explorer. The appearance altogether has an effect difficult to convey to the reader any thing like an adequate representation: several men are employed in breaking-up the freestone into different sizes, and which, it seems, yields with much placency to the tools used upon it; and carriages and horses are also seen among the openings, loading for the buildings of Bath. From its yellow appearance , it has a very clean and pleasing look. On regaining the daylight by a short circuit into the road, towards returning to Bath, a small enclosed spot is passed, which is used as a burying ground for the Jews. Several shafts are seen in the fields, raised about three feet from the ground, to let light into different parts of the quarry, to give facility to the excavators proceeding with their work. The prospect continues enchanting every step, and a small quarry, and in repassing the grounds of PROIR-PARK, some of the pieces of the stone measure 12½ feet long, by 3 feet 10 wide; on the left of which, at no great distance from the road, is a curious triangular building of freestone, in the Gothic style, erected by the late Mr. ALLEN, and used in his time as a look-out, which commands a fine view of the City and the adjacent country, and well worthy of inspection. It has the following inscription: ---

Memoriae optimi viri, RADULPHI ALLEN, positum,
Qui virtutem simplicemque colis, venerare hoc saxem.

top

Claverton Down, which is 400 feet above the City of Bath, and so distinguished for its beautiful extensive level of velvet turf, is soon gained. The views towards the north, south, and west, are peculiarly interesting. The Bath Races were formerly held here; and it is a most delightful situation. The shell of an antique castle, which appears to face every part of the City, and which is a conspicuous feature for some miles, was erected on this Down also by Mr. Allen. Near to this spot, about thirty years ago, a duel was fought by two Frenchmen of rank, who quarreled during the season at Bath, when one of them was killed. This circumstance occasioned considerable noise at the time. Continuing the walk across the Downs, a turnpike appears with three different roads connected with it. The left leads to Trowbridge; the right to Wells; and the direct line to Bradford. The high elm-trees, and the ivy growing over the stone walls on each side of the road, which continues for some distance, pleases the eye more than can be described. On the left of which is the sign of the Crown-Inn, but more generally known to the inhabitants of Bath as the “Brass-Knocker;” which, rather singular to observe, derives its designation from having the above appendage attached to the inn-door. Nearly opposite to which is Coombe-Grove, the mansion of the late William Vaughan, Esq. The “Brass-Knocker” is not only important from affording refreshment during this long walk to the traveller, but it also operates as a guide to him, in leading to a curiosity, which is highly deserving of notice, namely, THE AQUEDUCT, which unites the Kennet and Avon Canal with the Grand Junction. Here are two small stone bridges across the Somerset Coal Canal, which, it appears, has been reduced in size, on purpose to admit only the long narrow coal-barges from Tymsbury and Comerton. The view of the AQUEDUCT is noble and interesting; and connected with the other bridges, the river, and canals, gives an attractive effect to this part of the country. It has three arches; the middle one is wide and lofty, 40 feet at least from the water which it stands over. The dimensions of the other two are much less. it is build of free-stone, and is viewed as a fine piece of Grecian architecture. The traveller is now five miles from Bath, but the walk between the Canal and the Avon is so delightfully intersected with pleasing objects, occupying the mind so completely, that any thoughts about distance is quite forgotten. Some cottages on a high hill, at a place called Konkwell, produce a very pleasing effect. Upon an eminence, at a small distance, stands the Village of Claverton. This little hamlet is important to the visitor in several points of view: Claverton-House is a prominent feature to notice, from its fine specimen of architecture adopted in the reign of James I. It has an ascent of thirty steps, and is contiguous to the CHURCH. The latter place is a small Gothic building, but conspicuous principally from being the rectory of the late Mr. GRAVES, the author of the Spiritual Quixote, and several other publications of great merit. The above. Rev. gentleman held this rectory for the long period of 60 years, and died in 1807, at the advanced age of 90 years. He was a man of great benevolence; and through a very long life preserved a spotless character.

Can storied urn or animated bust,
Back to its mansions call the fleeting breath?
Can honour’s voice provoke the silent dust,
Or flat’ry soothe the dull cold ear of death?

top

About half a mile on the right of the canal is the very elegant mansion of Mr. Skryne, built in the Gothic style. The clean, light appearance of the freestone forms an excellent contrast to the fine trees contiguous to the house; and several sheepfolds also add to the picturesque scenery with which this situation abounds. On the banks of the river there is a large iron-pipe, which conveys the water from the Avon into the Canal, from the force of a machine when deemed necessary. Proceeding some distance down the river, on the left side of which an iron rail-way, from an immense steep height, is to be seen. It is curious to observe the iron carriages sent up and down without horses; and by the aid of machinery the vehicles change their positions midway, the full one running down to the barge in the canal, and the empty one making its way to the top again to receive its load.

Bath-Hampton Church soon appears after quitting the rail-way; the tower of which is covered all over with ivy. It reminds the spectator of “Gray’s Elegy.” The Village of Bath-Hampton, small, but neat appears in sight. Proceeding forwards, “BAILBROOK-LODGE” is perceived, delightfully situated upon a very lofty and commanding eminence; it is a most extensive and elegant mansion. The above institution is rather of a nouvelle description in this country, resembling the German Chapitres. It was established under the auspices of Lady King, about three years since, principally for decayed females, and also offering a desirable residence to ladies of very limited incomes; but it is maintained by the joint-contributions of the ladies residing at BAILBROOK-LODGE, without deriving any annual support from public endowment. It has a Lady President, merely to promote harmony and good order; as the inmates are all upon an equality. There is no limitation to age. The widows and daughters of clergymen, and of the officers of the Army and Navy, have an acknowledged preference over all other candidates; but none are admitted who cannot comply with the forms of a retired life, or who do not cheerfully assist in promoting benevolence and charity. it has to boast of the high patronage of several Duchesses, Marchionesses, Countesses, &c. by which means embarrassment is prevented; her late Majesty was one of its greatest patrons, and during her residence at Bath visited BAILBROOK-LODGE. It seems the Queen highly praised the mode with which this institution was conducted; and, united with the Princesses, contributed largely towards the fund, which is now placed at interest in the names of the following Trustees: The Earl of Shaftesbury, Earl Manvers, the Hon Gen. Vernon, and Sir B. Hobhouse, Bart. --- It has also the patronage of the Lord Bishops of Durham, St. David’s, and Meath; and the Earl of Sheffield.

On making towards home, part of Bath soon appears in sight from the houses on Bacon-Hill. New objects attract almost at every step the traveller proceeds. Along the banks of the Canal a new range of small neat residences are nearly finished; near to which are the swimming baths. In turning to the right of the Canal, Sidney-Place is soon gained, when the traveller will no doubt feel rather fatigued from this long, but truly interesting walk, upon his safe return to Great Pultney-Street.

top

THE ENGLISH say that their palaces are like hospitals, and their hospitals like palaces; and the exterior of St. James’s and of Greenwich justifies the saying. I have seen this magnificent asylum for old seamen, which is so justly the boast of the nation.

As it was my wish to see the whole course of the river through the metropolis, I breakfasted at the west end of the town with W. who had promised to accompany me, and we took boat at Westminster bridge. From no part of the river are so many fine objects to be seen as from this. On one side are the groves and palace of the Primate of Lambeth; on the other, the residence of the Speaker, which is now repairing in collegiate style; the abbey; and Westminster Hall, the great court of justice, whose prodigious size and greater antiquity render it an object not less venerable and impressive than the minster. The boats which ply upon the Thames are admirably constructed; long, light, and sharp, they almost fly through the water. They are numbered and registered; the watermen wear a badge, and have a particular costume --- any deviation from the ordinary English dress is an improvement; --- the fares, like those of the hackney coachmen, are regulated by law, and it is the cheapest as well as the pleasantest mode of conveyance. On Sundays they are forbidden to ply --- one of the stupid and superstitious interdictions this of Calvinism --- for Sunday is the very day on which they would find the most employ. They sit idly upon the bench before the alehouse-door by the water-side, cursing the regulation which keeps them idle; and the unlucky person whose way lies along the river must toil through dust and heat, a double distance perhaps, because forsooth no manner of work is to be done on the Sabbath day.

The banks of the river are not made ornamental to the city: a few streets come down to it at right angles, but none are built parallel with the water. The first remarkable object below the bridge is a tower constructed for making shot by a new process: the history for its invention is curious. About five-and-twenty years ago a Mr. Watts was engaged in this trade: his wife dreamt that she saw him making shot in a new manner, and related her dream to him: he thought it worth some attention, made the experiment, and obtained a patent for the invention, which he afterwards sold for ten thousand pounds. A range of buildings called the Adelphi, which are the handsomest in London because they are faced with a composition having the appearance of stone, --- Somerset House, a magnificent public building, of which the work goes on so slowly that one half the edifice will in the natural course of decay become ruin before the other is finished, --- and the gardens of the Temple, one of the law-colleges or inns of court as they are called, give some interest to this part of the river: the shores are every where choked with barges, of which a great number are laden with earth-coal.

A fine sweep of steps ascends from the river to Blackfriars --- the second of the three bridges, close by which the common sewers discharge themselves, and blacken the water round about. There is a strong echo under this bridge. On the Southward side are the ruins of a large building called the Albion Mills, which was erected for the purpose of securing the metropolis a certain supply of flour. A great capital was vested in this useful undertaking; but perhaps in no country are clamours so easily raised by the interested, and so greedily believed by the ignorant, as in England. The very axioms of commercial policy are not understood by the people, and it required all the firmness and all the influence of Mr. Pitt, during the scarcity, to save the country from the inevitable miseries which a maximum would have occasioned. The millers, themselves best aware of what roguery might be practised in their own trade, spread abroad reports that the flour was adulterated with all sorts of base mixtures. The Albion Mills took fire; whether by accident or not is doubtful: but the mob, who on all such occasions bestir themselves to extinguish a fire with that ready and disinterested activity which characterizes the English, stood by now as willing spectators of the conflagration; and before the engines had ceased to play upon the smoking ruins, ballads of rejoicing were printed and sung upon the spot. The fire broke out during the night, a strong breeze was blowing from the east, and the parched corn fell in a black shower above a league distant: even fragments of wood still burning fell above Westminster bridge. There is a floating mill upon the river thus constructed: a gun boat is moored head and stern, with a house built on it, and a wheel on each side which works with the tide.

The passage of the third bridge is considered as an achievement of some little risque: our boat shot through it like an arrow. Close to the bridge are the great water-works by which the city is supplied. When it is considered that all the filth of this prodigious metropolis is emptied into the river, it is perfectly astonishing that any people should consent to drink it. One week’s expenses of the late war would have built and aqueduct from the Surrey hills, and an hundred fountains to have distributed its stores. The Thames water ferments and purifies itself; in its state of fermentation it is said to be inflammable. St. Paul’s and the Monument are the main objects in this reach. Below the bridges is the Tower of London, and a forest of shipping: here indeed we saw how truly this city may be called the modern Tyre. Wharfs and warehouses extend in this direction far beyond any part of the eastern city which I had explored. New docks upon a great scale are nearly completed in a marsh called the Isle of Dogs, so named, it is said, because the body of a man who had been murdered, and buried there, was discovered by the fidelity of a dog.

At length we came in sight of green fields and trees. The marshes of Essex, from whence London is so often covered with fogs, were on one side; the Kentish hills, not far distant, on the other; the famous observatory of Greenwich, from whence the English calculate their longitude; and the hospital, a truly noble building worthy of the nation which has erected it, and of the purpose to which it is consecrated. The palace of the Tudors stood here. --- Charles II. began to rebuild it, and William appropriated it to its present use. About 2000 disabled seamen are supported here, and boys are educated for the navy. We saw the refectory and the church: but, as in a Relicario, the place excited too much feeling to obtain much attention: we were in the asylum of those sailors whose skill and courage are unrivalled, a race of men without fear, and as generous as they are brave. What volumes might be compiled from the tales which these old chroniclers could tell! There is not a shore in the habitable world but has been visited by some or other of these men, nor a hardship incident to human nature which some of them have not sustained.

We walked into the park, and up the hill where the rabble of London assemble on Easter Monday and roll down its green side, men and women promiscuously. From hence we had a noble prospect of the river, the distant shipping, and the pestilential marshes of the opposite coast. A story is told of an old native of these marshes, who carried on a thriving trade in wives. He chose them from the hill-country, and within a few years married and buried eight, all of whom he brought home upon one horse.

top

SHOULD the traveller feel inclined to prolong his stay at Clifton for one evening, in order to enjoy the salubrious breezes from an early aquatic excursion in the morning, on the Avon, to the little sea-port of PILL, about the distance of six miles, and that, too, at the trifling expense of SIXPENCE, (vessels and boats always passing from Bristol): also to partake of one of the most extensive and delightful prospects in the kingdom, at PEN POLE; and from thence to WALK through the fine grounds, witnessing the picturesque scenery with which the Park of LORD DE CLIFFORD so fertilely abounds: likewise to view the fine mansion of his Lordship, and his unique collection of Paintings, considered in point of talent and value as the third private collection in England, from the pencils of the following great painters, VANDYK, POUSSIN, TENIERS, CLAUDE LORRAIN, MICHAEL ANGELO, GUIDO, GUERCINO, CANBLOOM, CANALOTTI, RUBENS, &c. &c. The time so employed must be considered, by every intelligent mind, as well devoted to the combined advantages of pleasure and instruction.

The sail from Rownham Tavern (the Ferry) is truly delightful. The effect is sublime. Encompassed, as it were, on each side by the majestic rocks of St. Vincent, appearing like a huge cavern rent asunder. The numerous market boats, sloops, brigs, Indiamen, &c. continually passing to and from Bristol; the men employed in blowing up the rocks; the foot-passengers promenading up and down alongside of the river; the green hills in front, trees, &c. with the charming variety which the windings of the Avon offers to the enraptured eyes of the spectator, affords contemplation of the most extensive and enlightened description. The passage becomes rather rough as Hongroad is approached, at which place a large clustre of fine trees, on the left, are much admired. PILL is at length made, which has a convenient bay for shipping; and the packets for Cork, Waterford, &c. sail from this port. It is full of public-houses, among which the Waterloo-Inn, Red Lion, and Duke of Wellington, are the most conspicuous. Near the river it has something like the appearance of Wapping; but, at its extremity, towards the country, it possesses the neatness of a village. It has a small Church. Here are also some signs put up at two or three huckster’s shops, pointing out the widows and orphans of the men who were lost in the William and Mary Packet, belonging to PILL, in 1818, as a means of attracting custom. One penny is charged for the ferry across the water to Weeks’s Hotel, when the traveller arrives in Gloucestershire. PILL, with the ships, craft, &c. has a pretty effect from the above hotel. The first road on the left leads to Lamplighter’s Hall, and the village of Shirehampton appears on the right. The singular and delightful elevation of PEN POLE is soon ascertained, from which one of the most extensive prospects in the world is witnessed: ---

What a scene!
What various views unnumber’d spread beneath!
Woods, tow’rs, vales, caves, dells, cliffs, and torrent floods,
And here and there, between the spiry rocks,
The broad flat sea.

top

The grounds of LORD DE CLIFFORD extend to PEN POLE, and upon which elevation a sort of sundial is erected, in order to accommodate, as well as give a direction to the telescopes of the travellers. The trees, valleys, and picturesque scenery immediately adjoining and beneath PEN POLE is very pleasing, but the vast expanse which unfolds itself is of so sublime a nature, that imagination must supply the defect of description. In the centre appears the immense space of the Severn, into which the Avon empties itself. Ships making and leaving Bristol. The range of hills and mountains encompassing the view as far as the eye can possibly stretch. To the right is seen the New Passage-House to Wales, and the Passage-House on the other side. In the circle on the right is also the fine range of hills in Somersetshire. On quitting PEN POLE the village of Shirehampton is passed through, when the traveller soon enters the delightful Park of Lord de Clifford, and gains the fourth mile-stone from Bristol. This Park affords some charming views of Dundry Tower, the Old Ruin at Clifton, the windings of the Avon, and the seats of Mr. Nash and Mr. Miles, also add considerable grandeur to the scene. The latter mansion, which has been recently finished, is a very superior building. It has in the front of it a fine portico with lofty pillars, and likewise a portico with pillars on each of its sides. The above seat is the property of a rich merchant, who has not only consulted taste in its formation, but it is said to have cost upwards of £150,000. it contains 132 rooms. The expenses of the hall along were £20,000. The interior has also to boast of the advantages of the most modern furniture, with all its superb embellishments. An extensive library is forming; and several of the paintings which decorate the principal rooms are from the first masters of antiquity. Three of which cost £30,000. On proceeding through the Park, the spectator contains a front view of the mansion of Lord de Clifford, which was erected from a design of Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect who built Blenheim-house. It has rather a heavy appearance, and not much admired for its style of architecture.

On passing an elegant modern little cottage, near to which on the left is King’s Weston Hill; upon this eminence is erected a very commodious Inn, with large stabling, &c. which proves extremely convenient to those parties who leave Bristol to admire the prospects of PEN POLE, and to visit the House and Paintings of Lord de Clifford. On the summit of King’s Weston Hill, the view, if possible, is still more extensive than witnessed at PEN POLE. Tomb Marle, the highest mountain in Wales, is distinctly seen; also the Denny, Chepstow, Carcliff, &c. &c. Upon quitting the above Inn, a lane on the right is the carriage-road, and only entrance for visitors that leads to the front door and hall of Lord de Clifford’s mansion, which is about the distance of three hundred yards, from King’s Weston Inn. The hours of admittance are from eleven to two o’clock; and, from the liberality of his Lordship, in order to gratify the curiosity of the public; the Paintings are to be seen nine months in the year. The visitor, has nothing more to do than ring a bell, and upon announcing his wishes to a footman, the housekeeper instantly presents herself, and the apartments are shown without delay.

On entering the HALL, which is very lofty and in the form of a square, the effect is interesting and attractive. Thirty-six large portraits, consisting of the male and female branches of the ancient family of DE CLIFFORD, completely cover all the walls, in white projecting frames. The whole of the above portraits, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Sir Peter Lely, are in fine preservation, and retain all their original excellence and beauty of colouring. From this place, which, perhaps, might with more propriety be termed the PORTRAIT GALLERY, a door leads into an elegant inner-hall, in which a very fine piece of antiquity immediately interests the attention of the spectator, a wide old oak winding staircase, with handsomely carved bannisters, capacious landing places, and very highly polished, which leads to

LADY DE CLIFFORD’S DRESSING-ROOM. --- Of this most magnificent apartment, viewed as a Lady’s Dressing-Room, it may be urged, without disparagement or fear of contradiction, to have no equal in the kingdom; it does not, however, owe its importance to the art of the upholsterer, adorned with the newest fashions --- it has no fascinating draperies tastefully folded to enrapture the eyes of the spectator --- no enticing Grecian sofa, by way of invitation to toll the time away with a novel, or interesting tête-à-tête --- in short, there is nothing of the boudoir about it; nor are there any traces of the waiting maid’s “occupation” to be witnessed, (although it is used by LADY DE CLIFFORD every day, and a small simple toilette is the only appendage of dress) that in any way tends to give it the above designation. The room is rather long and lofty; the fine oak floor is highly polished; and containing three capacious windows in a half circular front. From which the same delightful extensive prospect is witnesses as at PEN POLE. Not a ship enters, or goes out from the port of Bristol, but is distinctly seen from this delightful apartment.

top

As far as I could cast my eyes,
Upon the sea, something, methought,
did rise Like blueish mists, which, still appearing more,
Took dreadful shapes, and thus mov’d tow’rds the shore;
The object, I could not distinctly view.
Was tall straight trees, which on the water flew:
Wings on their sides instead of leaves did grow,
Which gather’d all the breath the winds could blow:
And at their roots grew FLOATING PALACES,
Whose out-blown bellies cut the yielding seas!

The walls of the room are covered with paintings in gilt frames. The subjects in general are small, but they are of the first excellence. Some beautiful inlaid cabinets, rich and costly shells, &c. also decorate this dressing-room. The following are the most eminent of the pictures: ---

Two Landscapes..........................................................Poussin.
These paintings are pronounced to be two of the best subjects of this great master; and were particularly admired by the Duchess of York, on her visit to De Clifford-House.

The Holy Family..........................................................Unes.
To the passing eye of the spectator nothing more appears than a small wreath of flowers; and it almost requires the aid of a microscope to discover the Holy Family. It is a painting of extraordinary talent; and the beauty and symmetry of the figures are finely preserved and distinctly executed. It is worthy of the most minute investigation.

The Last Supper.........................................................Franks.
This is also an admirable production.

A view of King’s Weston-Hill, with the Seat of
Lord de Clifford........................................................A Modern Painter.

Three delightfully executed views of Venice.
Numerous Scripture and other pieces of great beauty and talent.
A fine collection of Miniatures by the first Artists in that line of painting
In Crayons, over the fire-place, the Dowager Lady
de Clifford and her children; among whom is recognized
the present Earl..........................................................Gardner.
Also Venus at her Toilet, in white marble; a most delicate and
highly finished piece of sculpture.

“Thy fair ideas, thy delightful forms,
By Love imagin’d, by the Graces touch’d
The boast of well-pleas’d Nature! Sculpture seiz’d,
And bade them ever smile in Parian stone,
Selecting Beauty’s choice, and that again
Existing, blending in a perfect whole
Thy workmen left even Nature’s self behind.”

top

The DRAWING-ROOM. --- This apartment, the walls of which are covered with crimson damask silk, possesses all the character of former times; the antique grate and old chairs still retain their places, and the harmony of the scene is not interrupted from the introduction of any articles of modern invention. The paintings too are from the pencils of some of the oldest masters, and portray most exquisitely the highest order of the art.

St. John in the Wilderness...................................Raphael.
A Connoisseur in painting would think a hundred miles but a trifling distance to behold such a fine picture, independently of the beauty of its colouring, and possessing several other highly finished requisites; the foot of St. John positively appears protruded from the canvas. it is almost reality personified, and its excellence and effect cannot be communicated by description.

Susanna and the Elders.......................................Rubens.
This is a small painting, but the face of the woman is exquisitely beautiful; the shame of her exposed situation is depicted with great expression; and the peeping curiosity of the Elders is also portrayed with the utmost skill.

St. Cecilia..........................................................Domenichino.
The drapery of this portrait is the admiration of all persons who have witnessed it.

A Magdalen.......................................................Guido.
Joseph and our Saviour......................................Ditto.
The countenance of our Saviour is finely delineated; it is a face not of this world; and possesses all those sublime touches for which the heads of the great master are so eminently characterized. The head of Joseph is also executed with uncommon beauty. Both the above paintings cannot be too much admired.

St. Cecilia and her Children................................Maratti.
These portraits are sweetly interesting. The harmony of all the faces are admirably personified.

Lot and his Two Daughters
Moses in the Bulrushes.......................................Poussin.
The excellence of the water in this picture is the admiration of every artist, and the praise of every spectator. it appears almost transparent.

This room also contains several other fine paintings.
Over the fire-place stands the Judgment of Paris, in white marble.
It is a finely executed piece of sculpture.
A Satyr tied is also worthy of inspection.

Two most superb inlaid cabinets, and the highly polished oak-floor, tend to give the Drawing-room the appearance of ancient grandeur.

The PARLOUR:

Samson and Delilah...........................................Poussin.
The strength and energy of Samson, and the beauty and fascinating softness of Delilah, are finely contrasted. It is an admirable painting.

A Madonna and sleeping Child.........................Guercino.
The loveliness of the face of the Madonna and the very natural situation of the Infant claims attention.

Venus and Cupid.............................................Guido.
The powerful attraction of Venus, and the liveliness of the young urchin, have been portrayed with great felicity by this distinguished artist. his painting imparts all the warmth of love.

There are also some fine views of Ancient Rome, much admired for the grandeur of their architecture.

EATING-PARLOUR:

Two whole-length Portraits of Lady Elisabeth
Cromwill and Thomas Earl of Essex........ ........Sir Godfry Kneller.
The beauty of Lady Elizabeth, her elegant figure, and the richness of the drapery and laces, are delineated with all the happy perfection of this great portrait-painter; but the fine interesting appearance of the Earl is truly captivating. The expressions of the countenance contains some exquisite touches of colouring.

Some excellently finished bronzed figures also decorate this parlour; and the doors of which that lead into the other apartments are of solid mahogany.

The remuneration to the housekeeper is left entirely to the liberality of the visitors.

Upon leaving the inn at King’s Weston-Hill, a delightful walk is experienced through the fields on returning to Bristol. The seats of the following gentlemen are also passed: Sneyd-Park, Mr. Hall; Sir Henry Lippincott’s; and Mr. Webb, M.P. for Gloucester. The fine Downs of Durdham, upon which are numerous rich lofty trees, render this situation truly picturesque. The Bristol Races are also held upon these Downs; and the course is considered a very good one. The main road is soon acquired, and the line of direction is in passing the sign of the Black Boy, King’s parade, Tindall’s Park, Berkeley-Square, through Park-Street to College-Green, and upon crossing the Docks to Clare-Street. The BUSH TAVERN has always numerous stages to convey the traveller, almost at every hour in the day, to the City of BATH.

top

The delightful village of CLIFTON and the BRISTOL HOT WELLS are so immediately connected with a visit to Bath, the facilities so numerous and easy to arrive at the above salubrious and healthful situation, the distance only 13 miles, and the expense so trifling, that it is thought few persons who are anxious to make the most of their time would hesitate for a single instant in setting out to view, in addition to some almost unparalleled prospects, one of the most majestic works of nature, namely, St. Vincent’s Rocks. Stage-coaches start almost every hour in the day from Bath to Bristol, outsides 2s. 6d. and insides 4s. and return from the latter place with the same convenience, regularity, and expedition.

On quitting the Old Bridge, the road alongside of the Avon, on the right, affords a fine view of the Royal Crescent, and the various elevations contiguous to it. To the left is Holloway, situated in the parish of Widcombe and Lyncombe, and under Beechen Cliff stands the small chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, which, from its present dilapidated state is little better than a ruin, and divine service has not been performed in it for a long time past. Its founder is unknown; but it is the gift of the Lord Chancellor. Viewed from the road, the chapel, which is built in the Gothic style, and covered with ivy, has an interesting effect:

--- ‘Ere round the huge oak, which o’ershadows you mill,
The fond ivy had dar’d to entwine,
And the church was a ruin, that nods on your hill,
Where the rook built its nest in the pine.

It is a piece of considerable antiquity, which may be seen on the east side of the porch from the following lines, in rude characters: ---

Thys. chapell. floryschyd. wt. formosyte spectabyll.
In. the. honowre. of. M. Magdalen. prior Cantlow. hath.
edyfyde. Desyring. yow. to. pray. for. him. wt. yowre. pryers. delecta-
byll. That. sche. will. inhabit. him. in. hevyn. there. evyr. to. abyde.

top

A small hospital for idiots, adjoining to the chapel, also belongs to the endowment, which was rebuilt in 1761. TWIVERTON (provincially called TWERTON, 2 miles, 6 furlongs) is a neat, interesting looking village, and is rather conspicuous for its large broad-cloth manufactory. This building, which is lofty and capacious, possesses all the appearance of an elegant mansion. It is the property of Mr. WILKINS, who has erected, contiguous to his manufactory, a very handsome range of neat and comfortable dwellings, built of freestone, in the Gothic style, for his numerous workmen; and, with the addition of his own residence and grounds attached to it, gives a pleasing finish to the whole. Near the extremity of this village stands a small neat house, in which it is asserted that several chapters of Tom Jones were written by FIELDING: ---

When from the world departs a son of fame,
His deeds or works enable his precious name;
Yet, not content, the public call for art,
To rescue from the tomb his mortal part;
Demand the painter’s and the sculptor’s hand,
To spread his mimic form throughout the land;
A form, perhaps, when living was neglected,
And, when it could not feel respect, RESPECTED!

-- --- GARRICK.

About a mile to the left of Twerton is Newton St. Loe Park, belonging to William Gore Langton, Esq. which is distinguished not only for an elegant modern mansion, but for the beauty of its gardens and the grandeur shed around from its lofty venerable oaks, added to its picturesque scenery, which receives a considerable and pleasing variety from several sheets and falls of water. About half a mile farther on the right, Kelweston-House, and its fine woody appearance, demands the attention of the traveller, belonging to Sir John Hawkins, Bart. Queen Elizabeth was entertained at the above seat with great splendor; and it was also in this mansion, that a translation of the poem of Ariosto, the celebrated Orlando Furioso, was produced, when in the possession of the Harrington family, which were eminently distinguished for their wit and talents. Queen Elizabeth also stood godmother to the above translator.

SALTFORD (5m.) contains but a few straggling houses.

KEYNSHAM (7m.) consists of one street of some length, and is a market-town; it was formerly distinguished for its manufacture of cloth; but the principal occupation of the inhabitants, at present, is spinning for the clothiers at Shepton and Bradford. The church, which is dedicated to St. John the baptist, is a handsome erection, and has a lofty tower, and good ring of bells; and it also contains some very elegant and superior monuments, particularly that of Sir Thomas Bridges. Kenysham in former times was celebrated for an abbey, but no traces of which now remain. The road affords some delightful prospects, till BRISLINGTON (10 m. 4 f.) appears in sight, which is a small but clean village. Previous to entering BRISLINGTON, on the right, stands the Lunatic Asylum, under the management of Dr. Fox. it is peculiarly well adapted for the reception of those unfortunate persons, from the airiness of its situation, and the advantage of its grounds; and, added to the superior skill and mode of treatment pursued by this gentleman, it appears, numerous persons have been restored to their friends and the advantages of society. The following anecdote is related of Dr. Fox, the authenticity of which has been vouched for. The doctor, it seems, was in the general habit of visiting his patients alone, and also frequently walking through his grounds without the attendance of a servant, at the bottom of which was a large bath appropriated for the use of the invalids. The doctor, in one of his morning walks, was seized suddenly upon by some of his patients, who threatened to drown him; when, without betraying the slightest symptoms of fear, and with the utmost coolness, observed to his insane persecutors, that, previous to their throwing him into the water, it might be better for them, as a token of their triumph, to give three very loud cheers. This stratagem had the desired effect. The noise immediately brought the keepers to the spot; the madmen were instantly diverted from their object, and the life of the doctor thus preserved.

Within a mile of Bristol, on the left side of the road, is a gentleman’s seat, denominated ARNO’S VALE: and near to which is the elegant mansion, built of freestone, belonging to J. Maxse, Esq. On the left is a building which resembles a castle, and has a good effect, but upon its immediate approach it is found to be stables. On descending the hill, a view of the populous City of Bristol bursts upon the traveller.

top

Upon crossing the iron bridge, previous to the direct entrance into the City of Bristol, the traveller will experience a most delightful walk on the banks of the Avon, and which is one mile and a half nearer to CLIFTON and the HOT-WELLS than through the streets of the above bustling city. A second iron-bridge, of one arch, soon presents itself close to Bathurst’s Hotel; contiguous to which is the New Jail, built of rock-stones. This prison is an extensive building, and has a lodge and yard on the front of it. The keeper’s house is situated in the centre; adjoining to which are two iron galleries nearly at the top of it, leading to two long wings. it has a formidable and terrifying aspect; the iron gratings of the windows are strong and massy; and the prison is completely encircled with a high stone wall. On passing this receptacle for the depraved and abandoned, the eye is relieved with a most enlivening, extensive, and diversified prospect. The spectator, on standing with his back to the cut, will have to his right a fine view of that part of the venerable cathedral which appears to stand in the centre of the trees, supported by the spires of St. Augustin’s, St. Stephen’s, St. Werburg, Christ-Church, and All-Saints. In the front, Tyndale’s Park, the house belonging to its proprietor, which commands an extensive prospect, stands on an eminence contiguous to Brandon-Hill. At a small distance from this spot, which throws an elegance over the scene, rises, in the most grand and majestic style, the ROYAL YORK-CRESCENT. From its extraordinary elevation it has a very attractive appearance, many of the houses being ornamented with elegant verandahs; it is built of freestone, though some of these lofty edifices differ as to colour. To increase the effect, at a considerable distance beneath the above fine range of residences, is the LOWER-CRESCENT, but many of the houses remain in an unfinished state. On the side of the ROYAL-CRESCENT, a charming row of houses appear in great forwardness. The Hot-Wells-Road is also distinctly seen. Illhouse-Dock, with ships in what is termed “the float,” gives a most interesting variety to the prospect. To the left is seen, at an immense height, Ashton-Hill, which is distinguished from its having three trees upon the top of it, and the mansion of Lady Smith, near to Lee-Wood. Pursuing the walk, the traveller is impeded in his career by a “stop-gate,” where one halfpenny is demanded for the accommodation; and contiguous to the above gate is Nova-Scotia-Wharf. It is here the entrance from the river takes place to the float, passing through Cumberland-Bason, which has a large pair of dock-gates. The West Indiamen frequently remain in this bason, till and opportunity offers for them to unload higher up. Rownham Tavern and the Ferry is now soon gained by the traveller, which affords a most delightful opening and view of Dundry-hill, with the tower upon the top of it. To the right, but almost close to the above tavern, stands a fine handsome range of buildings, called “Watts’s Folly,” which is built upon a rock of an immense height. The ruggedness of the rock has been cleaned off so smoothly, that it has now the appearance of elegant brick-work. The “Folly,” as it is termed, was originally commenced by the proprietor of the Patent Shot Manufactory, but it completely ruined him before it was half built, and remained in an unfinished state for some years. A story is very prevalent at Clifton respecting this Folly; indeed, it is vouched for as fact, that Mr. Watts was induced to undertake these buildings in consequence of a dream that had some allusion to the process of making shot; which, it appears, must fall from an immense height before they can acquire a finish. The story goes on to say, that out of one of these fallen shot, which rebounded from the ground, an immense range of high houses instantly appeared, which promised an accession of fortune. Mr. Watts being at Clifton at the time, and this rock appeared to accord with his dream, the erections were instantly set about: unfortunately for himself and family, this favourable interpretation was never realized; but, on the contrary, destruction and misery. On passing the Folly, on the turn-round by the side of the inn, a fine gravel-walk appears, shaded by a long line of trees, of 600 feet in length, contiguous to which is St. Vincent’s Parade, an elegant row of houses, built of freestone; at the end of the Parade is a handsome Colonnade, in the form of a crescent, filled with shops, that operate as an agreeable promenade in wet weather; and near to which is the HOT-WELL-HOUSE AND PUMP-ROOM. It is a very plain, small building. The water drank here is without smell, of a soft, warm, milky taste, and pleasing and grateful to the stomach. The spring from which it is taken rises near the bottom of the cliffs, ten feet above the low water mark, forcibly making its way through an aperture in the solid rock, and is of so copious a nature as to discharge 60 gallons in a minute. It has been analysed for the last 200 years by various eminent physicians, and pronounced to be extremely efficacious in cases of weakness of the lungs, fevers, in spitting of blood, chlorosis, dysentery, internal inflammation, &c. if timely taken in hand. It is also said to be beneficial in diabetes, stone, gravel, stranguary, gleets, loss of appetite, and indigestion; and consumptions have been stopped in their rapid career by its continued use in milk diet. It is however considered of a hard quality, and will not easily dissolve soap; but it is drunk generally by the inhabitants of Clifton, and brought into their houses by pipes. The above PUMP-ROOM, it seems, is shortly to be taken down to increase the towing-path, and also in consequence of the injury it has sustained from the attraction of Sion-House; a new one is to be erected in a more preferable situation, and a road made to it. Her late Majesty, when she visited Clifton, drank the water at the OLD PUMP-ROOM.

top

The stupendous rocks, on each side of the river, called St. Vincent’s, now burst upon the spectator with such sublimity and grandeur as to set description at defiance: the highest part of which is full 300 feet from the bed of the river. The Avon, which flows between them, for about a mile and a half, no where exceeds 150 yards in breadth; and it is conjectured they were separated from each other by some dreadful convulsion of nature. They have the appearance of a dark red marble. A chapel, formerly erected upon the highest part of these rocks, was dedicated to St. Vincent, after whom they are named. The foliage of the numerous trees in Lee-Wood, opposite, peeping as it were from their summits, forms a most delightful contrast. This wood, which contains the kingly oak, the lofty elm, ash, sycamore, box, and grave yew-trees, blending their various colours, with the addition of numerous others, render it so exuberant and attracting, that numerous parties, in summer-time, frequently cross the river, (what might be termed “gypsying” it,) taking their provisions, tea-kettle, &c. with them, and often concluding these excursions, on the verdant spot, to the sound of a fiddle, upon the “light fantastic toe.” The Indiamen, merchantmen, sloops, boats, &c. sailing to and from Bristol, tend very much to increase the effect. The men employed in blowing up the rocks, which is rather a service of danger, have tables set out by the side of the river with selections of various pieces of rock, termed bacon, blue, and black spar, with some variegated Bristol stone for sale, left to the generosity of the purchaser. Some parts of this stone are polished, and made into chimney-pieces, but it is principally burnt for lime. The echo is thunder indeed when the blowing-up is performed; and the men on the rocks, engaged in sending some of the fragments down, appear like little boys. Near to the top of one of the above high rocks is to be seen the “Giant’s Hole,” From the great curiosity which frequently induced numerous persons to ascend, to explore the two cavities which it contained, an outer and an inner chamber, where, according to tradition, a giant formerly dwelt, all approach to it now has very properly been blown up, in order to prevent any farther danger or accidents. Persons walking by the side of these rocks appear truly diminutive; and the majestic appearance of the above venerable cliffs must be pronounced one of the grandest scenes in nature:

How beautiful the pale rocks, above the shore,
Uplift their bleak and furrow’d aspect high!
How proudly desolate their foreheads, hoar,
That meet the earliest sunbeams of the sky.

Round to yon dusky mast, with pennants gay,
The tall bark on the winding waters line,
Between the riven cliffs plies her hard way,
And, peering on the sight, the white sails shine.

Alas! for those, by drooping sickness worn,
Who now come forth to meet the gladsome ray,
And feel the fragrance of the tepid morn
Round their torn breast and throbbing temples play!

Perhaps the muse, with a desponding sigh,
On the cold vault that shall their bones inurn;
Whilst every breeze seems, as it whispers by,
To breathe of comfort never to return.

Yet oft, as sadly-thronging dreams arise,
Awhile forgetful of their pain and gaze,
A transient lustre lights their faded eyes,
And o’er their cheek the tender hectic strays.

The purple morn that paints with sideling gleam,
The cliff’s tall crest, the waving woods that ring
With charm of birds, rejoicing in the beam,
Touch soft the wakeful nerve’s according string.

Then at sad meditation’s silent hour,
A thousand wishes steal upon the heart;
And, whilst they meekly bend to Heaven’s high power,
Ah! think ‘tis hard, ‘tis surely hard to part ---

To part from every hope that brought delight;
From those that lov’d them, those that lov’d so much;
Then fancy swells the picture on the sight,
And softens every scene at every touch.

Sweet as the mellow’d woods beneath the moon,
Remembrance lends her soft uniting shades:
“Some nat’ral tears she drops, but wipes them soon.”
The world retires, and its dim prospect fades.

Airs of delight that soothe the aching sense;
Waters of health, that through your caverns glide;
Oh, kindly yet your healing powers dispense,
And bring back feeble life’s exhausted tide!

Some orphan maid, deceiv’d in early youth,
Pale o’er yon spring may hand in mute distress;
Who dreamt of faith, of happiness, and truth,
Of love --- that virtue would protect and bless.

Some musing youth in silence there may bend,
Untimely stricken by sharp sorrow’s dart;
For friendship form’d, yet left without a friend,
And bearing still the arrow at his heart!

top

On proceeding a short distance, the turning of the river still continues attractive. The view of King’s Road and Cook’s Folly must be seen to feel the beauty of the impression; on the latter place, it seems, a great number of the trees have been cut down to increase the prospect, and there is one of the most delightful “look-outs,” from an old building, that can be imagined.

On the traveller’s return to Bristol, upon turning to the right, and ascending the hill, the delightful village of CLIFTON will be gained, which , from the air being remarkably pure and salubrious, added to its elevation, is styled the MONTPELIER of England. It is worthy of observation, that the turf abounds with aromatic plants, which grow here wildly, and are not to be met with in any other part of the kingdom, being natives of this peculiar spot. The fragrance from these plants proves of the most vivifying nature, not only to the valetudinarians, but to all the frequenters of this healthful retreat. Clifton-Downs now become interesting to the spectator, which is covered with verdue all the year. The invalids are here seen enjoying the light restorative breeze, several of whom are drawn, in small curricles, by a pair of donkeys; the charge for this vehicle, including the driver, is 2s. 6d. per hour. The remnants of some ancient fortifications belonging to the Romans are still visible, and may be traced upon these Downs, near to which are the remains of an old tower, a circular building containing some windows, but without any roof; the interior of which has only to boast of a brick floor and a fire-place; it has three open spaces, which were formerly doors. From the centre of this building are three most delightful views through the above openings. In the front, and extensive prospect of Gloucestershire. On the right, part of Clifton, Northampton-buildings; and in the back ground, Dundry-Hill. On the left, King’s Road, with the ships lying at anchor; the Bristol Channel, and the Mountains of South Wales. At the end of the Downs the traveller is attracted by the mansion of Sir William Draper, once so conspicuous in the minds of the public, from the severe attack he received from the pen of the hitherto undiscovered JUNIUS. To the left of this seat is a plain but expensive monument, with an urn upon its top, erected by the above gentleman, “Sacred to the memory of the Field- Officers, Cols. Brereton and J. More; the Lieutenants, Ensigns, and Surgeons, of the 79th Regiment;” the inscription also states,

--- “the French forces in Asia were withstood and repulsed; the commerce of Great Britain preserved, by the defence of Madras. The battle of Wandewash. Three superb capitals taken. Arcot, Pondicherry, the Manilla and Phillipine islands. The generous treatment of a vanquished enemy --- exhibiting an illustrious example of the true fortitude and moderation worthy of being transmitted in the latest posterity --- that future generations may know humanity is the characteristic of British conquerors! These conquests were obtained from 1759 to 1762.”

To the right of the house is another monument, with a lofty pillar, bearing the following inscription: ---

“GULIELMO PITT: Comiti de Chatham,
Hoc Amicitiae private Testimonium,
Simul et Honoras publici Monumentum,
Posit Gulielmus Draper.”

Near to this estate is the mansion of Hart Davis, Esq. M.P. of Bristol, with some charming grounds attached to it. A few minutes bring the visitor to SION-HOUSE, or the UPPER HOT WELL; it is an elegant erection, and also contains a most excellent library. At this house resides Miss SHARPLES and her brother, (George,) portrait-painters in crayons, whose talents for brilliancy of colouring, softness of touch, and accuracy of likeness, are deservedly the theme of all the fashionable visitors and judges of painting. The same young lady is equally attractive in historical subjects and delightful landscape scenery. The Prince of Wales’s Crescent is a handsome range of houses, but the Mall, for beauty of situation, may be said to take the lead in Clifton. Rodney and Saville Places, Richmond-Terrace, Boyce’s Buildings, York and Princes, &c. re all worthy of inspection. The Royal York-Crescent can boast of a large terrace equal to any street in London; added to Beaufort, Paragon, Trafalgar Buildings, and Windsor-Terrace, commanding views of the river, render this watering place a most desirable retreat. It is impossible to pass over the fine architectural appearance of the Mangeon-Hotel, (the daugher of Mrs. M. a short time since, made her debut at Drury-Lane-Theatre, as a pupil, and under the auspices of Mrs. Mountain, with much success,) which, for its extensive establishment and accommodation, is equal to any hotel in the kingdom. The church at Clifton is neat but small, near to which is the mansion of Gabriel Goldney, Esq. so attractive from its celebrated curious grotto; the entrance to which, from its great variety of beautiful and scarce shells, its fine roof, and rich Mosaic pavements, together with its stream of water in gentle rills, contrived to fill a reservoir for gold and silver fish, captivates the spectator; it is also enriched with metallic ores, petrifactions, Bristol stones, &c. A subterranean passage is connected with the grotto, which leads to a terrace walk, from which are seen some interesting landscapes.

On quitting Clifton, the most preferable road to return to Bristol is to cross Brandon-Hill, which is about 250 feet in perpendicular height, from its base. From this hill is a fine panoramic view of all the city; and from its summit, Oliver Cromwell, it appears, battered the Cathedral and town.

College-Green and the Docks, if time permit, are well worthy of observation. In Clare-Street, the Exchange, Post-Office, and Council-House, are equally important. On turning down High-Street, the traveller will pass over Bristol-Bridge, built of Portland-stone, which is an elegant structure of three arches. Then, through Temple-Street, and cross the iron bridge, when the visitor will soon regain his vehicle. The return to bath will also furnish him with a variety of rich prospects for his contemplation.

top