Travel

"Lady Catherine had many other questions to ask respecting their journey, and as she did not answer them all herself, attention was necessary..."

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JOURNEY from LONDON to BATH
(from Pierce Egan’s “Walks through Bath...,” published in 1819)

...When CHELTENHAM, also, has yielded up its fashionable valetudinarian visitants; and BRIGHTON, from the rudely southern breezes driven the elegant and almost transparent fair ones off its dashing Steynes, and left principally to the care of its natives and rough uncultivated fishermen, notwithstanding royalty’s palace, “out-heroding” all the talismanic touches of the genii of the “Arabian Nights,” it is then that the season for visiting the splendid and classic BATH becomes the universal place of resort, and the beau monde all upon the alert to reach its fashionable destination. Whether the foot-step of the gay “set out” of the barouche offers its ascent to the eager traveller,

“With spirits gay we mount the box, the tits up to the traces,”

or, the more accommodating ladder to mount the roof of the Regent, to the coachy’s “all right -- ya-hip!” and the sounding of the bugle by the guard to quit the bustle of the White Horse Cellar, the journey to most minds commences with pleasure and delight: and, although he may not possess the talents of a STERNE to realize another “Sentimental Journey,” he will, nevertheless, find the road far from “barren,” but, on the contrary, furnish him with abundant interesting objects for his attention and observation, more especially, if the passengers are truly English, (i.e. of that sort of quality which is so humorously depicted by MATTHEW’S in his “Mail Coach Adventures,”) the traveller may possess the advantages of thinking; indeed, for instance, some hours often elapse before a single word can be thawed from your close-squeezed cold neighbour; and if you can provoke any conversation beyond the laconic “yes,” or “no!” you are likely to be silenced after the mode of the following surly remark, to prevent any further attacks: --- “Sir, I am remarkably well now, and if I should happen to be taken ill, sir, I’ll let you know.” Yet, perhaps, it is much more pleasant to endure even this reserve, than to be annoyed with the purse-proud importance of one of “Fortune’s fools,” who can talk of nothing else but the collection of his rents, and flatters himself he has a right to be listened to because he is a man of property; or, to being bored to death by some uninformed cockney, who never lost sight of Bow-Church before, and whose intellectual sagacity scarcely points out to him the difference between grass and corn, and the sum total of his repeated inquiries amount to, “What house is that there,” and “what is growing in this here field.” But the journey is began; the coach is in full speed; and the “good bye” scarcely over, when the traveller is off the stones, --- gone through KNIGHTSBRIDGE, and, before he has hardly time for a single reflection, arrived at KENSINGTON-GORE, (one mile.)

On the right stands the Palace, but now more famed for its delightful gardens and attractive walks for visitors on Sundays. Just through Kensington, also on the right, appears the antique mansion of the late Lord Holland, and father of that enlightened and illustrious senator, Charles James Fox. This venerable seat also lays claims to attention from the impressive death of that great, good man, and classic scholar, ADDISON, who departed this life in it. It was here where the above truly pious individual requested a young nobleman to behold “with what resignation a Christian could die.”

HAMMERSMITH soon appears in sight (3 m. 5 f.) and on the right of which stands the pleasant seat of R. Ricardo, Esq. On the left is seen, contiguous to the banks of the Thames, the beautiful mansion of the MARGRAVINE of ANSPACH, known by the name of Brandenburgh-House. The approach to it from the water is picturesque in the extreme; and art has been consulted and employed to render its appearance highly interesting to the spectator: the gardens are laid out with great taste. The Margravine is a lady not only conspicuous for her eminent literary talents, her splendid private theatricals, performed in the theatre at Brandenburgh-House, in which her serene highness frequently delighted her auditory in the two characters of heroine and author; but was of great notoriety in the fashionable world. From her superior knowledge and facility in the French and Italian languages, her great taste for the arts of poetry and music, and considerable personal attraction, the Margravine was viewed as one of the most admired women of her time. Her highness has published several works in poetry, the drama, travels, and novels; and, as a traveller, since the days of Lady Mary Wortley Montague, no female ever made so enterprising, extensive, and masculine a tour as the Margravine. In short, few, if any, places of note upon the Continent were suffered to escape her notice or her pen, and frequently at the hazard of her existence.

In the neighbourhood of Hammersmith stands also the estate of W. Hunter, Esq.

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TURNHAM-GREEN, (5 m. 1 f.) Contiguous to this little place the following seats are to be met with: --- G.E. Griffith, Esq. Mrs. Stephens, ----- Ware, Esq. -------Neale, Esq. and Mrs. Wildman. To the left, Sutton-Court, -----Sidebottom, Esq. and at Little Sutton, Mrs. Pratt, also Grove-House, Rev. Mr. Lowth; Fairlawn-House, on the right, ------Thomson, Esq. But, the most prominent mansion stands on the left of Sutton, Chiswick House, the residence of the late and present DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. The slightest glance of this house cannot but awaken the feelings of the passenger with some pleasing recollections concerning two of its dearest inmates, long since consigned to that “bourse from whence no traveller returns.” And Chiswick-House will long be remembered, not only for its political meetings under the staunch Whig principles and influence of the Duke, his strong and steady attachment to the Constitution, and his amiability of character through life; but equally renowned as the Temple of the Muses, the abode of Wit, and the circle of elegant and polite literature, under the patronage and taste of the Duchess; whom NATURE and ART had united in rendering one of the most beautiful, accomplished, and superior females of her day.

The traveller is, at length, awakened from this reverie, by the long, stony, jolting town of

BRENTFORD, (7. m. 1 f.) consisting of upwards of 300 houses, irregularly built, and containing nearly 2000 inhabitants. It is, however, a place of but little notoriety, excepting at the dissolution of Parliament; yet the memorable spirited contests of those “men of the people,” WILKES and SIR FRANCIS BURDETT, have given it a sort of political importance it otherwise would not have acquired. On the left of BRENTFORD is seen Kew-Bridge; and at various parts of the town, the new palace, built under the immediate direction of HIS MAJESTY, (although it never became the residence of the King,) is viewed across the river with pleasing effect, and generally considered as an ornament to Brentford. The propriety of erecting a palace in such a situation has been much questioned, in consequence of the humidity with which the interior has to contend against.

The Grand Junction Canal, after running from Northamptonshire through a variety of places, for the distance of 93 ¼ miles, at length unites itself with the Thames at Brentford-Bridge. On passing through Brentford, on the left, stands Sion-House, the capacious and elegant mansion of the Duke of Northumberland, fitted up and finished after the best models of Greece and Rome, which, for taste and beauty, is scarcely to be paralleled in Europe; the approach to which through the grounds is particularly picturesque; and the lion on the top of the handsome gates of the lodge, not only designates this prominent ornament of the Northumberland family, but renders the entrance truly grand and imposing. This neighbourhood has also to boast of more houses belonging to some of the most ancient of our nobility. On the right, Sion-Hill, The Duke of Marlborough; opposite to Sion-Lodge, is the seat of Miss Batten; and, at the distance of a mile is Osterley-Park, the beautiful residence of the Earl of Jersey; formerly belonging to Mr. Child, the most opulent banker in the city, but which was left by him to Lady Sarah Fane, (who married the above Earl, and daughter to the Countess of Westmorland,) in consequence of the latter’s elopement and marriage with the Earl of that name, in opposition to her father, Mr. Child. This circumstance, which once so much agitated the fashionable world, is now got rid of in the mind of the traveller by his arrival at

SMALBERRY-GREEN, (8 m. 2 f.) This little village becomes important to the inquisitive mind of the passenger, who learns, that Spring-Grove, on the right, is the seat of that learned antiquary and botanist, the Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, Bart. The mildness of manners, the amiability of deportment, and the literary converzationes of this gentleman to benefit his country, and improve the general habits of society, have not been able to preserve him from the attacks of ridicule and satire by the humorous Capt. MORRIS and the facetious (though not always correct as to facts) PETER PINDAR.

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HOUNSLOW, (9 m. 3 f.) a town of little note; and although time is afforded the traveller to exercise his mind while the horses are changing, and “coachy” is taking his little whet, yet no objects present themselves worthy of his immediate attention. But, notwithstanding, there are several good seats contiguous to Hounslow belonging to Mrs. Fullerton; Whitton-Place, George Gostling, Esq. Here is also Whitton-Park, so justly celebrated for its fine cedars of Lebanon; and the residences also of Sir Benjamin Hobhouse; Samuel Prime, and James Campbell, Esqrs. On leaving the town, on the let, is the great road to Land’s End, of 190 miles. On crossing the Heath, once of such “dread import,” (a few years since either by day or night,) and so very fruitful to the pages of the Newgate Calendar, from its numerous collectors, (otherwise highwaymen,) all the palpitations of the heart, shiverings, and cold sweats, which formerly operated upon the delicate feelings of the female passengers, under the apprehension of being robbed every instant, and the anxieties and state of suspense experienced by the more courageous male travellers, “whistling aloud, like the school-boy, to keep their courage up,” are now completely removed, and Hounslow-Heath has become almost as safe as riding through St. James’s Park. This change, perhaps, is not owing to an increase of horse and foot patrols, exertions of the police-officers, or well-armed guards to most of the stage-coaches, but to be attributed to the change which has taken place in committing depredations upon the public, with less hazard to the robber for his personal safety. The following original anecdote may prove acceptable, concerning one of those “high spirits” of the school of crime, a noted highwayman upon the above Heath, a great collector, and a perfect Macheath in real life, surrounded by doating mistresses, yet ultimately was betrayed or “sold” to the officers of justice by a favourite dulcinea, and, at length received sentence of death, but whose punishment was commuted for transportation for life. NED HALLORAN, possesing principles that would have reflected credit on a better cause --- acting up to the strictest scale of honour in every private transaction of his life; yet even his conviction, he asserted, could not convince his mind, that he had been guilty of a crime, in taking from those persons who had plenty of property, in order to relieve himself who had none. Such was the character of this robber. Upon one of his collecting days on the above Heath, he stopped a goldsmith and refiner, a man of considerable property and importance in the City of London, and took from him, without any resistance, his cash, gold watch, chain, and seals, and also his sliver knee and shoe-buckles, and very politely wished the refiner a good morning. NED, thinking it was all right and safe, after a small circuitous route over the Heath, put up his horse at an inn to take refreshment; his repast being ended, and just as he was ready to mount his horse, the refiner rode into the yard, but did not recognize him. HALLORAN left the inn without the slightest agitation; and, in the course of a few days afterwards, strange to say, but strictly true, NED, in his own person, offered the above stolen articles to the refiner upon his counter; when the latter looked up at HALLORAN, without betraying any appearance of recollection, and immediately saw the man who had robbed him upon Hounslow-Heath; yet the refiner, with the utmost coolness and business-like manner, paid him the worth of them, and HALLORAN retired from the shop in safety. It is thus accounted for.. This refiner, it seems, was what the thieves term a fence; and NED must have been directed to his shop by some of his own fraternity; and, therefore, the refiner pocketed the affront, for fear if any noise had been made upon the subject, his own iniquitous practices might have been discovered. It is a positive fact, that the above refiner, in a few years after this transaction, put a period to his existence, to avoid the disgrace of a public trial for forging the Goldsmiths’ Company’s mark, to pass the articles he sold as gold. The countenances of both the thief and the receiver, upon recognizing each other, and yet each, with the utmost coolness, keeping the secret, would have been a fine subject for the pencil of a HOGARTH. The above is one among the numerous, singular circumstances that occur in London, without ever obtaining publicity. But the highwayman, footpad, and house-breaker, are now, in a great degree, lost sight of in the passers of forged bank-notes, as running a less risk of detection; and the facilities of obtaining these notes are so easy, that they are bought and sold with as much regularity as any articles of trade. One decided proof of the vast extent of this species of crime is, the Solicitor of the Bank of England obtains £20,000 per annum as the price of his prosecutions. The long heath is now passed, and the traveller finds himself at

CRANFORD-BRIDGE, (12 m. 2 f.) About half a mile distant from this bridge stands Cranford-Park, the seat of the Countess (relict of the late Earl) Berkeley, rendered so interestingly conspicuous in the fashionable world upon the death of the above nobleman, in consequence of the interference of the House of Lords to protect their privileges of bestowing the title upon the legal heir. The right of succession, it should seem, operated very much upon the paternal feelings of the Earl previous to his demise; and, notwithstanding the heavy forfeiture of estates and penalties laid upon any one of the family by his will, formally attested, who should attempt to disturb the right of his eldest son to enjoy the title, &c. it was, after a most minute, laborious, and voluminous, investigation, by the peers of the realm, (which involved rather an unpleasant exposé of the domestic circumstances of this noble and ancient family,) finally determined, that the youngest son (of five) was the truly legal inheritor to the title of Berkeley estates. it is, however, worthy of remark, that, upon the same evening this decision of the House of Lords was made public, Colonel Berkeley (the hitherto presumed heir) received this change of fortune with the utmost composure. He lost no time in calling his numerous retinue together, and taking his youngest brother by the hand, addressed them, saying, “This is Early Berkeley --- and my designation, in future, only Colonel.” The “law,” it is true, has been complied with in removing the title; but, it appears, that the brotherly affection existing between the sons, the anxiety to pay attention to the will of their deceased parent, (whose feelings upon so delicate a question were of the most praiseworthy and laudable descriptions, originating from the real impulse of nature,) that the “property” has not been disturbed.

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SIMPSON-GREEN, (13 m. 4 f.) Here are only a few straggling houses and the sign of the Magpies; but, the country on both sides of the traveller is pleasant, though nothing of any importance is to be seen, till he arrives at

LONGFORT, (15 m.) At a small distance on the left of the road are the seats of Sir Edwin Francis Stanhope and Sir John Gibbons, Barts. and about two miles on the right, at West Drayton, is the residence of Fyshe De Burgh, Esq. The old road, that runs on the left, makes to the Thames; but the new one, on the right, goes to BUSHY-PARK. The recollection of this latter place is not particularly important from its being the splendid retreat of royalty, and the abode of the Duke of Clarence; but, it is truly conspicuous in being once the residence of the later generous, amiable, but unfortunate Mrs. JORDAN; and cannot fail in exciting some of the most feeling sensations in the mind of the traveller, at the vicissitudes of her interesting career, and the melancholy period of existence experienced by this highly-gifted female.

The traveller, who seems lost in a complete reverie, that out of the numerous remembrances in Westminster-Abbey, one small niche could not have been found to recognize the loss of such unbounded talents and real worth, if not to prevent from total oblivion one of the greatest ornaments of the British stage, is, at length, awakened from the thoughts of neglect and ingratitude, by his entering into Buckinghamshire, and arriving at

COLNBROOK, (16 m. 6 f.) On the right is Ritchings-Park, belonging to the Right Hon. John Sullivan; and, on the left stands Horton-House.

LANGLEY-BROOM, (18 m. 2 f.) On the left of which is Ditton-Park, the seat of Lord Montague; and, on the right, that of Sir R. B. Harvey, known as Langley-Park.

TETSWORTH-WATER, (19 m. 2 f.) is of no interest, till the traveller arrives at

SLOUGH, (20 m. 4 f.) This place is rather attractive in being the residence of the great astronomer, Sir William Herschell. The superior talents exhibited by Sir William, and the discoveries he has made in the grand and sublime science of astronomy, is a decided proof what perfection may be attained by any individual, supported by industry and application; and, as an addition to his character, it seems, Sir William Herschell is entirely self-taught. In this neighbourhood are also the seats of H. Daw, ---------Edward, and J. Penn, Esqrs. and Capt. Vyse.

SALT-HILL, (21 m. 2 f.) From this place, on the left, is a fine view of Windsor-Castle, rendered more interesting and attractive in being the residence of our reverend and venerable monarch, George III. whose length of reign is without parallel; and, at the period of writing this paragraph, (November the 10th, 1818), it is worthy of remark, he has been King of England upwards of fifty-eight years --- the queen in existence --- twelve sons and daughters living, and the youngest child of their majesties more than forty years of age. In his retreat from the public eye, it may be truly observed, -------

Yes, we have lost a father!
The greatest blessing heaven bestows on mortals,
And, seldom found amidst these wilds of time,
A good and worthy King!

Here is also a fine prospect of Eton-College. Contiguous to Slough and Salt-Hill are numerous residences, among which will be found those of the Marchioness of Thomond; Cranbourn-Lodge, late -------Nash, Esq. Glewer-Spire; Sophia-Farm, -----Dawson, Esq. and the Earl of Harcourt’s, at St. Leonard’s Hill. Also Farnham Royal Church; Britwell-House, Hon. George Irby; a view of Burnham church and village; Huntercombe, J.R. Atkyns, Esq. the Willows, late H. T. Ward, Esq. and Dropmore-Hill, the seat of that distinguished and profound statesman, Lord Grenville.

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MAIDENHEAD-BRIDGE, (25 m. 2 f.) is a light and elegant erection; and, the exterior of the inns have an imposing appearance, from the way in which they are decorated with flowers. This part of the country should seem very attractive to the nobility and gentry, from the various seats with which it is surrounded. On the right, at Taplow, is Lord Riversdale, P. Grenfell, Esq. and Lady Courtenay. On the hill, the countess of Orkney; Taplow-Lodge and Monkey-Island, belonging to P.C. Bruce, Esq. near to which are, Water Oakley, ----------Harford, Esq. Filbert, C. Fuller, Esq. The Retreat, late Lady Bowyer; and one mile, on the right, the beautiful woods of the Countess of Orkney are to be seen. Also Hedsor, Lord Boston; on the left, at some distance, in Dorney-Court, Sir Ch. H. Palmer, Bart. Braywick-Lodge, Sir J. W. Waller, Bart; and Cannon-Hill, C. S. Murray, Esq. In the neighbourhood of the above, are the residences of B. Witts, Esq. Lady Pocock, and Sir William Herne.

MAIDENHEAD, (26 m.) a small corporate town, containing 167 houses, and about 800 inhabitants, near to which are the following seats; on the left is Ives-House, belonging to ----------Wilson, Esq. and, on the right, Hall-Place, Sir W. East, Bart; and Bisham-Abbey, George Vansittart, Esq.

MAIDENHEAD-THICKET, (28 m.) The road about this place is interesting, and well sprinkled with delightful residences. On the left is Heywood-Lodge, ----Sawyer, Esq. and the spire of Shottesbrook-Church is to be seen, which enlivens the prospect. Here are also the seats of A. Vansittart, Esq. Pinke Lee, Esq. Wooley-Hall, late Rev. Mr. Palmer, and Stubbins, belonging to Lady Dorchester.

KILN-GREEN, (32 m.) On the right is the residence of Henry Fommereau, Esq, and, on the left, Scarlet, Lee Perrot, Esq.

HARE-HATCH, (32 m.) The traveller would scarcely ask the name of these little places, were it not for the seats which are contiguous to them. On the right is Bear-Place, Sir Morris Ximenes, and ----------Dalton, Esq. and, on the left, are the residences of J. Montague, Esq. and Ruseombe-House, -------Blake, Esq.

TWYFORD, (35 m. 6 f.) About a mile distant on the right you view Shiplake-Hill, the seat of Mrs Newell; and on the left, Stanslake, belonging to Sir N. Dukenfield, Bart. The road also, for five miles, is by no means uninteresting, and among the following retreats from the busy world, is found the residence of that learned civilian, the Right Hon. Sir William Scott, brother to the Lord Chancellor. Both of these gentlemen, from their splendid talents and industry, have risen to the very high offices they fill in the government, and may be said to have been the only architects of their great fortune and well-deserved fame. here is also Woodley-Lodge, belonging to J. Wheeble, Esq.; Sunning, R. Palmer, Esq.; and Caversham-House, the property of major Marsack.

READING, (38 m. 7 f.) is corporate town of considerable interest and extent. it contains numerous excellent buildings, some good streets, several churches, and a theatre. The assizes are also held here. The inhabitants are calculated at about 11,000, and the number of the houses between 2 and 3,000. A great deal of business is carried on in Reading. About half a mile on the left stands Coley-Park, the seat of Berkeley Monck, Esq.; and further on the right, is Prospect-Hill, J. Leibenod, Esq.

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CALCOT-GREEN, (41 m. 4 f. ) on the right of which is Calcot-Park, the seat of J. Blagrave, Esq.; and at a small distance is Tyler’s Parsonage, the residence of the Rev. Dr. Routh.

THEAL, (45 m. 5 f.) On the left hand is Sulhampsted, the seat of William Thoytes, Esq. and Englefield-House, about a mile on the right, belonging to Richard Benyon, Esq.; and further on is Beenham-house, the property of the Rev. J. Bostock.

WOOLHAMPTON, (49 m. 1 f.) contiguous to this place are the following seats: on the left is Padworth-house, R. Clark, Esq.; also Aldermaston-house and park, W. Congreve, Esq.; and Wing-house, late W. Morant, Esq..

THATCHAM, (52 m. 6 f.) Almost a solitary public house, the King’s Head, merely to refresh the waggoner, forms the principal features of this place.

SPEENHAMLAND, (55 m. 6 f.) On the right of which is Shaw-Place, the seat of Sir Joseph Andrews, Bart. Immediately adjoining Speenhamland is

NEWBURY, (55 m. 7 f.) a corporate town --- The buildings are old and irregular, and it contains no feature of any particular interest. Its inhabitants are estimated at 5000; but the houses do not exceed 1100. NEWBURY is considered about the half-way to BATH; and some of the coaches make a short stay here to dine; indeed the time allowed for this necessary refreshment is so short, that the traveller has scarcely swallowed a few mouthfuls, when he is interrupted by the coachman that “all is ready,” and he must either go without his belly-full, or stand a chance of choking himself by bolting the remainder of his food, if he means to make any thing like a dinner, in order to accommodate the coachman. This may be deemed one of the “miseries of travelling,” and it should almost seem that coachy has a secret understanding with “mine host” to turn these things to good account.

SPEEN, (56 m. 6 f.) is surrounded both on the right and left with a variety of seats, belonging to the following ladies; Mrs. Wasey; Mrs. Craven; Miss Hulberts; and Mrs. S. Quintins; Donnington, or Chaucer’s Grove, belonging to John Bebb, Esq. and Donnington Castle-House, Col. Stead. Also the residences of F. C. Parry, Esq. and the Rev. G. Wyld: but the most prominent and attractive to the mind of the traveller is Goldwall-Hall, the seat of George Canning, Esq.

BENHAM-PARK, (57 m. f.) the seat of Anthony Bacon, Esq. and at the end of which is Hemstead-Lodge, belonging to the Earl of Craven. This nobleman elevated to the rank of his countess, Miss Brunton, belonging to Covent-Garden-Theatre, a lady of great personal beauty and attractions, and possessing considerable theatrical talents. About three miles on the right is Welford-Park, belonging to the Rev. John Robinson.

HALFWAY-HOUSE, (59 m. 5 f.) within one mile and a half of this place, on the left, is Barton-Court, the seat of C. Dundas, Esq. and at a little distance is Wallingtons, -----------Mackaness, Esq.; and Inglewood-House, the residence of Mrs. Shaw.

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HUNGERFORD (64 m. 1 f.) has to boast of one good broad street, a capacious market-house, a neat church, and some excellent inns. it is , however, a small town, containing not more than 400 houses; and whose inhabitants do not exceed 2000 souls. Most of the stage-coaches change horses at Hungerford; and, if the traveller should prove thirsty, the “home-brewed” of this place is really excellent; and its character for soundness of quality, pleasantness of taste, and as good as was “e’er tipt o’er the tongue,” has long been established for many miles round the country. Numerous gentlemen’s seats are also contiguous to this town. Within one mile, on the left is Hungerford-Park, the residence of John Willis, Esq.; Littlecott-Park, Gen. Leygorne Popham; a newly-erected fine mansion, C. Mallett, Esq. and Standon-Park, S. Bevan, Esq. A military depot has been established in this neighbourhood. But the most important circumstance connected with Hungerford is Ramsbury-Manor-House, belonging to Sir Francis Burdett, Bart. one of the most distinguished public characters of England, and the avowed friend of liberty, the constitution, and the oppressed subject. His parliamentary life abounds with interest. Three times returned for Westminster in the true purity of election; but yet he has numerous opponents, who hold his principles as too violent.

FROXFIELD, (66 m. 7 f.) a small place, consisting only of a few straggling houses, but nevertheless entitled to some import, from its range of nice alms-houses, founded by the Duchess of Somerset, for the widows of clergymen; and, about four miles from the main road, is Tottenham-Park, belonging to the Earl of Aylesbury.

MARLBOROUGH-FOREST, (71 m. 1 f.) The road here is delightfully picturesque for two or three miles, and the fine clusters of trees in this forest rise proudly to the eye of the traveller. On the left is Severnake-Lodge, Earl of Aylesbury.

MARLBOROUGH, (74 m. 1 f.) a respectable corporate town, containing nearly 500 houses, and about 3000 inhabitants. On the left, through the town, is seen a large mansion, formerly the residence of the Duke of Somerset, but now metamorphosed into the Castle Inn: and, at no great distance from which, is the figure of a white horse, cut remarkably well out of the grass, which has a good effect, whose symmetry, taking its dimensions into the scale of merit, is far above mediocrity; but it sustains a considerable drawback, when it is found to be a mere copy of the original at Cherrill, more of which will be mentioned hereafter: it has however a handsomer neck. Within a mile and a half from Marlborough, on the right, is Rockley-House, the Hon. Gentl. John.

MANTON, (75 m. 4 f.) Of no interest whatever to the inquisitive traveller.

FIFIELD, (76 m. 6 f.) Of the same description.

OVERTON, (77 m. 7 f.) On the left of this place, about three-quarters of a mile, is Lockridge-House, the residence of J. Benton, Esq. and Kennet-Hall, belonging to ---------Matthews, Esq.

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WEST KENNET, (79 m. 2 f.) The White Hart here, which stands almost alone, excepting a straggling farm-house or two, is famed for selling “a cup of good stingo".

Here the poor waggoner, who (broil’d with heat
And chok’d with dust) seeking the cool treat
Of tempting pot-house, bord’ring on the road
To slake his thirst with nut-brown ale so good.

It is the crack of the beverage in this part of the country: indeed it is in such high repute, that the farmers and coachmen along the road would think it a positive libel upon their want of taste to pass by the White Hart, at West Kennet, without drinking the health of the “old hostess,” who has long had the merit of producing this wholesome liquid. it is also distinguished for a remarkable barrow, about half a mile distant on the right of Silbury-Hill; a little further is to be seen, at Averbury, the antique and architectural ruins of a large Druid’s temple. If the traveller could alight to view this ruin, it would amply repay him for his curiosity. Averbury-House is the residence of ---------Jones, Esq.

SILBURY-HILL, (80 m.) This is a fine open part of the country, and nothing of cultivation is neglected.

BECKHAMPTON-INN (80 m. 6 f.) only conspicuous as a place of refreshment, and its delightful ride across the downs.

CHERRILL, (83 m. 7 f.) This place is a great object of attraction to the traveller, from the large White Horse cut out of the turf, upon a hill of chalky substance, and viewed as a distinguished land-mark. The above horse is remarkably well executed, and its colossal size may be seen with the greatest ease at the distance of several miles. The tail, it is said, measures fifteen yards; and from its extremity to the head, it must be an expert flinger of a stone to reach it. When close to the figure, it has nothing like the appearance of a horse. It occasions considerable betting amongst the passengers in the different stage-coaches who daily pass by it. The original idea, and merit of cutting it out, belonged to one CHRISTOPHER ALSOP, a surgeon at Calne; and, added to his well-earned reputation as a medical man, he was a most ingenious mechanic. The memory of this person is much revered in the neighbourhood of Calne, from his benevolent disposition and Christian-like traits, which adorned his character. Mr. ALSOP came to Calne a journeyman apothecary, but, in the course of a few short years, he realized a most ample fortune. he was a man of much literary taste; complete master of mechanics; and a superior maker of telescopes. He never refused the call of the unfortunate in the hour of distress and trouble; and was known, for many years after he had retired from business, to go many miles to attend the poor at his own expense. His death was a great loss to the inhabitants of Calne and neighbourhood. Whether GEORGE COLMAN, in his researches after real characters, had in his eye Mr. ALSOP, when he penned the following lines, we cannot ascertain, but they may be considered to apply to him: ---

“His fame full six miles round the country ran;
In short, in reputation he was solus;
All the old women call’d him a fine man,
His name was BOLUS.

Benjamin Bolus, though in trade,
Which oftentimes will genius fetter,
Read works of learning, it is said,
and cultivated the Belles Lettres.”

On the completion of the above horse, it was celebrated on the spot by a sort of fair, which was kept up on a certain day in every year; but latterly it has been given up. About half a mile further, on the right from the road, is Compton-Bassett-House, the seat of Mrs. Heneage; and, on the left, is Blackland-House, the residence of John Merewether, Esq.

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QUEMERFORD-BRIDGE, (86 m. 1 f.) leads on to CALNE, (87 m. ) which possesses an excellent market-house, a large inn, and one tolerable street. It contains about 800 houses; and its inhabitants are near 4000. On the left is the Castle-House, the residence of Mrs. Bendry. It is curious to observe numerous little children, without shoes or stockings, about here and upon the road, running alongside the coach like race-horses, and keeping it up for a considerable distance, in hopes to get a few halfpence from the passengers, --- the girls, keeping tight hold of their petticoats, and tumbling over head and heels with the greatest ease and agility. These children have so much daily practice in this sort of exercise, that few, if any, of the celebrated pedestrians cold beat them for a short distance. Immediately on quitting the coach, they generally lay themselves down in the road, till another stage appears in sight, and so on till the end of the day.

STUDLY, (89 m. 6 f.) Through this place, on the left, is Bowood, the magnificent residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Considerable taste and elegance are to be discovered in these venerable shades, formed under the immediate direction of the first Marquis. The mansion is also distinguished for its union of grandeur and simplicity. If the paintings have not to boast of being a collection of the first ancient masters, --- the library is composed of the choicest and most valuable articles of literature. The present marquis is also prominent for his attention to the polite arts. The political career of the above young Chancellor of the Exchequer, although short, will never be forgotten by the lovers of humanity, in being connected with an administration, that cancelled all its errors, by an abolition of that disgraceful traffic, denominated the SLAVE TRADE; and also, in making this traffic felony by law, and punished as a crime against the welfare and character of society in general.

DERRY-HILL, (90 m. 1 f.) The country about here is not only pleasant and picturesque, but well cultivated.

CHIPPENHAM (92 m. 6 f.) is a corporate town, containing two or three capacious and good inns, about 800 houses, of antique look; and the inhabitants are estimated at between 3 and 4000 persons. The passenger passes through it without any particular interest. On the left, at a small distance from the town, is Ivy-House, the residence of Robert Humphreys, Esq. For five miles the road produces very few objects to attract the attention of the traveller, excepting the safety of his seat, from the incessant jolting, in fact, almost jumping, the state experiences upon this stony road, till he arrives at the small town of

PICKWICK, (97 m.) A degree of importance is attached to this small place, from its contiguity to Corsham-House, (1 m.) the celebrated seat of Paul Cobb Methuen, Esq. whose superb collection of painting are the theme and admiration of every visitor; but more of this hereafter, in its proper place. On the right of Pickwick stands Hartham-Park, the seat of ----------Jay, Esq. and Pickwick-Lodge, belonging to Caleb Dickenson, Esq. The prospects along the road delightfully increase, till the passenger arrives at

BOX, (99 m. 6 f.) This is altogether a pretty interesting village, something after the descriptive style of GOLDSMITH:

Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain,
Where health and plenty cheer’d the labouring swain.

The cleanliness of the houses, which are all made of free (or Bath) stone; a neat little church, built of the same materials, adds to the interest of the scene --- the useful farrier’s shed --- the stocks for the unruly, erected more in terrorem, perhaps, than of any material service --- the appearance of two small inns, of an inviting character --- in short, Box is truly compact, and may be viewed as no bad prelude to the “great Bath.” About a mile on the right is Shockerwick, the seat of John Wiltshire, Esq. The mind of the traveller is tolerably well occupied till he arrives at

BATH-EASTON, (103 m. 2 f.) This is a small town, of one tolerable street in length, and the appearance of the houses is very neat and clean. in this neighbourhood is Bailbrook-Lodge, a recent establishment formed for the reception of decayed ladies of respectability and high rank, under the patronage and sanction of her late Majesty. Also Bath-easton-Villa, once the residence of Sir John Millar. This seat was distinguished for the weekly parties of his lady, famed for their poetic productions. It is now the residence of Dr. Broadbelt. On the left is Hampton-House, the residence of Dr. Haygarth. Several other gentlemen’s seats are contiguous to Bath-easton, and the prospects and variety of subjects along the road interest the traveller, till he descends the hill adjoining to Walcot.

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BATH. To the most indifferent traveller, who scarcely “reads as he runs;” or, perhaps, labouring under the mental debility of ennui ---THE ENTRANCE TO BATH cannot fail in removing this frigid apathy, and awaken his feelings to the numerous interesting objects which, in rapid succession, present themselves to his notice: but, to the admirers of NATURE and ART, and particularly to the lovers of taste and elegance,

This ancient city,
How wanton sits she, amidst Nature’s smiles!
Nor from her highest turret has to view
But golden landscapes and luxuriant scenes:

it rises with peculiar grandeur; also, its well distributed buildings, and amphitheatric arrangement of crescents, splendid seats, &c. surrounded by the lofty hills of Claverton-Down on the left, ornamented with the look-out of the exterior of an antique castle, erected merely to connect the extensive opening, which stretches out with a view of Prior-Park and its superb mansion; while, on the right, the prospect is equally imposing --- the vast ascent of Lansdowne-Hill, Mount-Beacon, &c. &c. with the addition of some delightful and harmonizing scenery, produce a combination and an effect, that makes the tout ensemble operate upon the mind of the stranger, like a well-written preface to an important and superior work, stimulating him eagerly to peruse every page of it, till he becomes completely master of the subject. The appearance of BATH is altogether nouvelle, possessing a rank exclusively its own, and from its uniformity and classic architecture, has to boast of a decided Roman character. NATURE, it should seem, has been truly liberal to this fertile valley; and industry and talents, for nearly the last century, have scarcely suffered a moment to elapse, without studying to grace it with the advantages of ART, to make the above gift still more attractive. it is thus described by a modern artist: --- “Viewed under the influence of a meridian sun, and through the medium of an unclouded atmosphere, BATH presents to the sight and imagination every thing that is united with the idea of perfect beauty; and so strong is the impression it makes upon the mind of almost all people at first sight, that the prepossession is converted into opinion; and when enveloped in those exhaltations which arise from its salubrious springs, it is still called to mind in all its loveliness and attractions.”

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On descending the hill to Walcot, the traveller is actively engaged with the pleasing appearance which the suburbs of this fashionable city offer to his attention. Immediately upon his right is the new road, that turns off to Oxford and Cheltenham. In proceeding onwards, a neat row of house, called Lambridge, is to be seen, with long gardens, tastefully laid out in front of them. A few trees and hedges, also, intersect in various places the different houses, giving this part of it the air of an elegant village. Grovenor-Place, on the left of the road, has a very magnificent appearance. It is a long range of high mansions, built upon a lofty terrace, enclosed with iron rails, with trees planted in the gravel-walk. In the centre of the place is a most capacious building, with seven Ionic pillars in front, richly ornamented, intended for an inn; but which operates as a sort of drawback; from this hotel and part of the place being left in an unfinished state. Beaufort-Buildings, on the opposite road, is of an equally fashionable nature, with a broad pavement, carriage-way, and a large green promenade, also enclosed with iron rails. This prelude is prepossessing, and every progressive step strengthens the impression of the respectability and importance of Bath; the eye not being familiar with the smoothness and cream-coloured appearance of the free-stone, which gives the houses such an air of cleanliness, altogether, that the effect is usually cheerful. In passing through the turnpike, the appearances of houses on the hill, upon the right of the spectator, burst upon him very conspicuously. To the left of the gate is a very superior newly-erected row of houses, with very handsome long-paved fore-courts, enclosed with iron rails. Next, in succession, on the right, is Worcester-Terrace, and opposite to which is Percy-Place, both attractive situations, with walks and trees planted before the doors. Kensington-Place is also a terrace of some quality, with a carriage-way to it, the front enclosed with iron rails, and gates at each end of it. Opposite to this handsome range of dwellings are gardens; and, the houses upon the hill, rising above each other to a great height, cannot fail of interesting the attention of the passing stranger. On the left, is Kensington-Chapel, erected under the direction of Mr. PALMER, which is a neat building, in the modern style of architecture. Within its walls, it is 62 feet in length, and 42 feet 6 inches wide. it has also a recess, 21 feet by 12 feet 6 inches. To render it comfortable to invalids, it has three fire-places. It was opened for Divine Service in 1795. On the right is Piccadilly; but, in comparison with this place in the Metropolis, it is merely the same name. Lower East Hayes, Hanover-Place, Brunswick-Street, York-Place, Iron-House, Dover and Bedford Streets, are extremely short, and not above mediocrity. Here elegance gradually gives way to the minor habitations of little tradesmen and shopkeepers; and business now attracts the attention of the traveller. Albemarle-Buildings and Myrtle-Place are soon passed by; and Long-Acre only possesses three small houses, but out of which, to have something like similarity to its namesake in London, two of them are coach-makers. Walcot Buildings and Terrace are tolerably neat residences; but in no competition to Walcot-Parade, which stands very high on the right of the road, with a paved promenade before it, commanding a good prospect, and enclosed with iron railing. Nelson’s Place and Margaret-Place are of no import. On turning into London-Street, Walcot New Chapel presents itself. Of the religious kind, it is one of the most elegant chapels in Bath. The foundation-stone was laid on the 31st of March, 1815, and opened in May, 1816. In the front, it has an elegant portico of the Grecian Doric, and on the tablet is inscribed “WALCOT-CHAPEL, 1815.” It has also on the frieze ---”DEO SACRUM.” Divine service is performed three times every Sunday. It is 73 feet in length, and in width 52; and has a commodious school underneath it, capable for instructing 800 children, with an excellent enclosed burying-ground. It is considered a great ornament to this part of the town. Walcot-Church is soon passed on the left, and Somerset-Street gone through with little interest, till the Vineyards, Paragon, and Bladud-Buildings, claim the notice of the spectator. There is more solidity than elegance in the appearance of these houses, although well built. The Vineyards has, however, to boast of a capacious place of worship, built by the late Countess of Huntington; the interior of which is interesting. It has a handsome gallery, and a good organ; the singing at this chapel is mentioned with much respect. The prayers are read by a minister of the Church of England. York-Buildings now puts and end to the journey; and the traveller alights at the York-Hotel, to refresh himself from the fatigue he has undergone, amuse himself with the attractions and comforts which this unrivalled tavern affords to all its visitors during their stay, and to prepare himself for future observations in his “WALKS THROUGH BATH.”

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The above HOTEL is a fine building, and considered one of the largest and best inns in the kingdom, out of London. Its accommodations are in the first style of excellence, under the superintendance of Messrs. Lucas and Reilly. In the season it overflows with company of the highest rank in life. The dining-room is equal, if not superior, to the large rooms at the Crown and Anchor, in London. The suite of rooms correspond, and are furnished in the most superb manner. It has a subscription-club of the first respectability, denominated the “Friendly Brothers,” consisting of three knots. --- The members are elected by ballot, and are free in London, Dublin, and Bath. The subscription is three guineas per annum; but an additional charge is made for newspapers, publications, &c. Stages also set out from the York-House every day for London. This hotel is stored with a profusion of silver plate for the service of its visitors. A catch-club is likewise held here.

Some to the York-Hotel resort,
And drown their cares in sparkling port,
For recreation seeking;
There talk of politics and dress ---
At length, grown weary of excess,
Break up --- when day is breaking.

The Subscription-House also, at York-Buildings, is considered equal to any establishment of the kind in England. it is founded upon the plan of similar institutions in London; and the members are elected by ballot. The terms are six guineas and a half yearly. Newspapers, &c. are furnished in abundance for the use of the subscribers. Mr. Knubly is the proprietor.

The dimensions of that Part of Great-Britain called England.

The length of that part of Great-Britain called England, from South to North, is 386 miles; the broadest place from the Land's End to Sandwich, is 279 miles; the next broadest place, which is between St. David's and Yarmouth in the East, is 240 miles. The whole compass of England is 1532 miles.

A table of the principal direct roads in England and Wales, and of several other roads which branch out of the direct roads, &c. according the the measured distances.

N.B. The figures thus placed 21.5, &c. signify miles and furlongs; as for example, from London to St. Alban's 22.5 that is
22 miles 5 furlongs.

1. Road from London to Berwick, 339 1/2 measured miles.
From London to Waltham 12 miles. Ware 22- 1/4. Puckeridge 27- 1/2. Royston 38. Huntingdon 57- 1/2. Stilton 69.
Stamford 83. Grantham 104- 1/4. Newark 118- 1/2. Tuxford 131- 1/2. Doncaster 155- 1/2. Wentbridge 165- 1/4.
Tadcaster 182- 1/4. York Micklegate 192. Borowbridge 200. Topcliff 215. Northallerton 229- 1/4. Darlington 243- 1/4. DURHAM 262- 1/4. Chester in the Str. 168. Newcastle 276- 1/4. Morpeth 291. Alnwick 310. Belford 323- 1/4.
Berwick 339- 1/2.
Another and the best road to Stilton is, To Barnet 11. Hartfield 19. Stevenage 32. Biggleswade 46. Bugden 62. Stilton 76.

2. Road from London to Dover 72- 1/2 measured miles.
To Deptford 5. Crayford 13.6. Dartford 16. Chaulkstreet 24.4. ROCHESTER 29.6. Sittingbourn 41. Bocton Street 50.4.
CANTERBURY 56.2. Dover 71.4.

3. Road from London to Portsmouth, 73- 1/2 measured miles.
To Wandsworth 6.4. Kingston 12.4. Cobham 20. Guildford 30. Lippock 46.6. Petersfield 55.2. Harndo 62.4.
Portsey-bridge 69. Portsmouth 73.4

4. Road from London to Holy Head 269- 1/2 measured miles.
To Barnet 11.7. St. Albans 21.5. Dunstable 34.2. Brickhill 43.7. Stony Stratford 53.1. Tocester 60.1. Daventry 72.7.
Dunchurch 80.7. COVENTRY 92.1. Coleshill 103.5. Litchfield 118.5. Rugley 126.2. Stone 140.7. Stableford-bridge 147.4. Namptwich 162.4. Torperly 172.5. CHESTER 182.1. Harding 189.2. Northorp 194.4. Denbigh 209.2. Aberconway 229.5. Beaumaris 241.5. Boddefar 260.6. Holy Head 269.2.

5. Road from London to Bristol, 115- 1/4 measured miles.
To Brentford 10.1. Hounslow 12.3. Colebrook 18.7. Maidenhead 27.6. Twiford 35.2. Reading 40.2. Theal 44.5.
Woolhampton 50.3. Thacham 53.5. Newbury 56.6. Hungerford 69.2. Marlborough 75.3. Caln 88. Chippenham 93.6. Marshfield 103. Bristol 115.2.

6. Road from London to Aberistwith in Com. Cardigan.
To Acton 8 miles. Uxbridge 15. Beckensfield 27. Chipping Wickham 29. Tetsworth 45. Islip 57. Enston 70. Broadway 91. Pershore 103. WORCESTER 112. Bromyard 124. Lemster 136. Prestain 149. Ithon River 162. Riadergowy 171.
Aberistwith 199.

7. Road from London to Oxford. To Tetsworth as before.
See Numb 6. 45 miles. Wheatley 50. OXFORD 56.

8. Road from London to St. David's in Com. Pembroke.
To Maidenhead, see numb 5. 27.6. Henley 35.7. Dorchester 49.3. Abingdon 55.3. Farringdon 68.5. Barnsley 83.7. GLOUCESTER 102.2. Michael Dean 113.7. Monmouth 127. New-church 139.2. Bridge end---- Burton's Fer. 197.2. Llanesthy 214.1. Llanstephan 227.5. Haverford West 254.3. St. David's 269.5.
Another way from Farrindgon; to Cirencester 14 m. to Stroud 10,. Chepstow 20, Roch and Fount 6, to Newport 6, and is the nearest road by 4 comp. miles.

9. From London to King's Lynn, in Norfolk.
To Puckeridge, see numb 1. 27.4. Barkway 35.4. Fowlmire 43. Cambridge 52. Stretham 65. ELY 69. Littleport 74.
Southery 80. Downham 87. Seeching 94. King's Lynn 98- 1/2.

10. Road from London to Lincoln, through Royston.
To Stilton, see Numb.1, 69 miles. PETERBOROUGH 76. M. Deeping 87. Bourn 95. Sleaford----LINCOLN 129.
The best road to Lincoln is through Grantham, see No. 1, 104-1/4, Lincoln 129.

11. Road from London to Wells.
To Marlborough, see Numb. 5, 75.3. Devizes 89. Trowbridge 98. Philips Norton 104. Chilcompton 115. WELLS 120.

12. Road from London to Derby.
To Dunstable, see Numb. 4. 34-1/2. Wooburne 43-3/4. Newport-Pagnell 53. Northampton 67. Harborough 85. Leicester 99. Mountsorrel 104. Loughborough 107. Kegworth 112. Derby 122-1/2.

13. Road from London to Norwich.
To Epping 17. Hockerill 30. Chesterford 45. Newmarket 60. Barton-Mills 68. Thetford 79. Attleborough 93. NORWICH 108.

14. Road from London to Land's-End, in Cornwall.
To Brentford 10.1. Stanes 19. Bagshot 29. Harley Row 38. Basingstoke 48.1. Andover 66.2. SALISBURY 83.6. Shaftsbury 103. Sherborn 118.4. Crookhorn 133.2. Axminster 146.4. Honiton 156. Rockbere166. EXETER 172.4. Chedleigh 182. Ashburton 191. Brent 199. Plymouth 215.6. Looe 231. Foy 240.4. Trewandeth 244. Tregony 256.6. Phily 263. Market-Jew 287. Pensance 290. St. Burien 296. Senan 300.6.

15. Road from Oxford to Bristol.
To Fifield 9 miles. Faringdon 18. Huworth 24. Burton 31. Malmsbury 42. Luckington 49. Puckle Ch. 60. Bristol 68.

16. Road from Cambridge to Oxford.
To Gamlingay 15 miles. Bedford 28. Newport-Pagnel 41.3. Buckingham 55.2 Burcester 67. Oxford 80.

17. From London to Chichester in Susex.
To Tooting 7 miles. Ewell 14. Letherhead 20. Darking 24. Stone-street 30. Billinghurst 41. Amberly 51. Arundel 55. Chichester 66.

18. From York to West-Chester.
To Tadcaster 9.8. Thorner 17.7. Leeds 25. Burstal 32. Ealand 40. Rochdale 55. Eccles 72. Warrington 66. Fordsham 86. Chester 106.

19. Road from Manchester to Derby.
To Stopford 6.4. Shaucross 17.4. Buckston 23. Brasington 39.4. Weston Und. 49. Derby 55.

20. Road from London to Nottingham.
To St. Alban's 21.5. Luton 29.5. Silfoe 38.5. Bedford 47.4. Wellingborough 66. Kettering 73. Rockingham 83. Uppingham 87. Oakham 94. Melton Mowbray 104. Nottingham 123.
Another and the best Road to Nottingham is through Loughborough, see No. 12, 107. Nottingham 124.

21. Road from London to Scarborough.
To Lincoln, see Numb. 10, 129 miles. Spittle 140. Winteringham 158. Brough, Yorksh. 159. South Cave 162. Driffield 174. Scarborough 191.
Another and the best Road from Spittle as above; Briggs 152. Baron 163. Hull 164. Beverley 173. Driffield 187. Scarborough 208.
N.B. From Winteringham to Brough, or from Barton to Hull, is only cross the River Humber.

22. From London to Scarborough by the Way of York.
To York, see Numb. 1. 192 miles. Malton 212. Scarborough 235.

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The public vehicles for the conveyance of persons are here called coaches. They are generally neat and commodious, and furnished with good horses; the names of the towns and villages at which they stop are handsomely painted on the outside; and at the principal towns the number is so great, that passengers are seldom delayed. Where expedition is required, this is the best mode of travelling. Strangers should make themselves acquainted with their usages and regulations, that they may guard against impositions, vexation, and perplexity.

Besides the regular and established fare for a seat, the driver and the guard (the last of whom accompanies the mail stage only) are to be paid at the end of every stage of about twenty miles. This has been so long a custom as almost to have the force of law; and the perquisite is generally demanded as a matter of right. The usual donation, for such it is, is six pence to each, but a shilling and even more is often given, and never refused. The sum thus annually collected by this tax on travellers is almost incredible; and the place of driver and guard to some of the coaches in the large towns, is of so much emolument as frequently to enrich the holders; and they are often sold at a high price. In other respects the travelling charges are not unreasonable or exorbitant. They are greater in the mail than in the common coaches, but the accommodations are better in the former, and the expedition is greater; hence, where this is required, most travellers willingly pay the difference; and besides, there is more security from accidents and robberies. The hours of departure are fixed, and passengers must be punctual to secure their seats; as this is absolutely necessary where a choice is wanted, for no one is entitled to this from his name being first or second on the way-bill. The seat may be also secured by a servant, or a cloak, great coat, or cane; any of which will be considered as the representative of the passenger himself.

In pleasant weather I would prefer a seat on the outside, as affording a prospect of the country; and it is most desirable for the traveller, if a stranger, to take one with the driver, for the information which may be derived from him of the country through which he passes. In the accommodation coach it is a good general rule to take an inside seat when the number of passengers is greatest on the outside; or the weight of the baggage is such as to increase the risk of being overturned. Again, when the weather is unfavourable, or there is a probability of being benighted, it is most prudent to secure and inside seat. Even, however, where there is a desire to be on the outside, this is not always necessary where the seats in the coach are all unoccupied. In such a case it will be economy not to pay for a seat in the coach until it is actually occupied. In this way I have often changed my seat as I felt disposed, and I have frequently exchanged seats with passengers who were in the coach.

The mail coaches are limited to carry four inside passengers, and two on the outside; but in the others, though also limited by law, less attention is paid to infractions; and the number is frequently so great as to make it both uncomfortable and dangerous. They all travel with great speed; and the average number of miles per hour, including all necessary stoppages, is perhaps not less than six and a half or seven. I have sometimes been carried at the rate of ten miles an hour.

Passengers should bestow strict attention to their baggage, for although packages are sent to every part of the kingdom with great safety in the coaches, it is not generally considered as incumbent on the coachman to attend to the baggage when the owners are present. Small trunks or bundles may be put under the seats in the coach, but larger are generally put into the boot or box behind it. Caution is particularly necessary where there are several coaches starting about the same time from the same inn, and in a country where petty thefts may be committed with so much facility, and with so little danger or detection.

Travellers in the mail and common coaches seldom meet with that polite attention at the inns for which they are generally distinguished, and which is almost always shown to those who arrive in their own carriage, or even in a post-chaise. Passengers in the former may be permitted to get out of the coach or descend from its roof in the best way they can; no servant offers any assistance. But as soon as a private carriage makes its appearance at the door, a crown of waiters are in immediate attendance, who evince by their officiousness their expectation of reward. One opens the door, another will assist you to alight, while a third will conduct you into the house.

To secure comfortable accommodations, experience taught me not to put up at the inn where the coach stopped, if I intended to remain a few days or weeks. I have already stated the reason. I therefore always chose some other. To stage passengers the servants want their accustomed civility, from a belief that their stay being merely for a day or two, it is a matter of indifference to the latter whether the former are pleased or not.

When the coach is to set off at an early hour, the seat should be previously engaged; and the reward which the boots, chamber-maid and principal servant expects, and to which they are entitled, should not be given until the morning; for thus you will be certain of being called in time to take your seat; but if they receive their douceurs before you retire to bed, they will feel no interest in awaking you, and you may sleep till doomsday for what they care. A few disappointments taught me this precaution, and I found it to be very useful.

The transaction of business will be facilitated, pleasure increased, and an accurate knowledge of the country much sooner obtained, by reading such books only as relate to its geography, topography, arts, sciences, manufactures and commerce. These, with the various fugitive publications, such as reviews, magazines, and news-papers, ought to be attentively read, and a preference given to them over more elaborate or systematic works, which are most valuable for occasional reference. Books of roads, pocket maps, and descriptions of places about to be visited, should always be at hand; and they are to be procured in almost every town. They are necessary appendages to the baggage of a traveller.

Respectable strangers will have no difficulty in having access to the public literary institutions which abound in almost every large town. In the Lyceum and Athenaeum of Liverpool, as also the reading-rooms of this place, Manchester, and some other towns, I have passed many hours with equal delight and profit.

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